i have an endyn intake mani and it doesnt have the iacv mount. so i can the iacv anyways but just had it pluged in and ran the vacuum line to the intake. ive had it run like that the last few years had the car tuned and all that but cold starts are kinda a pain in the ***. i was wondering if i were to hook the coolant lines up to it will it work? and will it effect the a/f on startup, if i can use it do i just link it to the hose that goes from the 2nd intake fitting to the side of the head?
this is on an obd1 gsr

 

somebody has to have had this question at one point

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/fast-idle-thermo-valve-2440961/

Does this help a little bit? You have to use the IACV to create a Controlled Vacuum Leak during idle and when you put a small load on the engine, drop it in Gear, turn on the AC, load up a bunch of accessories.

 

why load up on everything? if i were to hook up the coolant lines wouldnt it just work? the vacuum lines have been hooked up before the tune

 

I am not saying to load up the accessories, I am saying that if you load up the engine, the IACV should allow more air in to increase the idle speed. I think we need a pic of your setup to give a better answer, it sounds like the valve is just hanging in mid air and not mounted to the intake. I am not mentally seeing how the IACV is allowing air to get into your intake if it is not actually mounted to the IACV port (which you dont have).

Clean the throttle body really well since your idle seemed to be better before, also when things get worse gradually over time, this is a hint that a tune up is needed.

 

I'm a little confused, as you are either explaining it weird or are running a weird setup.

Sounds like you have the electrical connector hooked to your IACV, but it's not bolted to the intake manifold. Then took the 2 IACV hoses endyne uses for the IACV and "looped" the outlet to another vac fitting, and plugged the inlet side (going to the throttle body hole). Or plugged both IM fitting or both IACV holes?

Most people take a 1/4" chunk of aluminum or steel, put the 4 holes in it for bolts & air, then tap the air holes for brass nipples. Then they run the outlet nipple back to a manifold nipple, and the inlet nipple to a filter or a nipple they added before the throttle body. Just beware that you should use fairly big nipples/hose. The stock setup uses 3/8" or 1/2" passages to/from the IACV.

BTW I doubt you need the coolant running through the IACV, all I can imagine is that it either helps warm the added air for better fuel atomization or the iacv actually gets hotter than 200F by itself. I doubt it could heat up that much though.

 

its a custom intake from endyn doesn't have the mount for the iac. it has 6 vacuum fittings on the back however. i took the side of the iacv that's used to push the unregistered air into the motor to raise idle on start up, JB welded a hose to it and ran it to the intake. the sensor is also plugged into it. i just never had the two coolant lines plugged into it, so when i start the car "cold start" it idles at 1k and if it dropes below 60* outside its a pain to keep running because i have to keep my foot on the gas till it'll idle on its own. im wondering if i were to hook those 2 coolant lines up, will it do the regular start up process. ie, idling at 2k then dropping down the warmer it gets

 

i mean if i hook up the coolant line and it doesnt help the car with the warm up process by letting the car know its cold then its not doing its job either way and ill just take the damn thing out lol

 

Sounds to me like whoever tuned your ECu took off the IACV fuction. Because if it were still fuctional, your "jb welded hose" would be getting air from the IACV. -Later, BR

 

yes. but doesnt it need the coolant to run through it to let the iacv know its warm or cold in order to function properly?

 

Let me see if I understand, of course we know that it is not mounted properly, lets say you have the two coolant hoses hooked up, there are two more holes in the IACV, one is open to the atmosphere (the inlet), the other has a tube JB Welded to it (the outlet to your intake).

Put your finger over the inlet hole, or better yet, a rag, and partially block off the inlet hole little by little until you completely block off the inlet hole, I am thinking that in the end, there needs to be some air allowed to enter even on a fully warmed up engine. Anyways, your rag is going to simulate the action of the coolant controlling the air flow through the IACV.

See what happens. Maybe your JB Weld is leaking air and even if you hook up the coolant hoses, maybe the IACV is bad.

 

Negative Ghost Rider. The coolant is there to warm the IACV (and somewhat of the throttle body) up in cooler climates to keep the internal passages from icing up. Bypassing this wont hurt it at all. -Later, BR

 

ah. see i thought the coolant lines in it were to let the car know how warm the engine temp was so itd know how much air to put into the motor, just seems that for the last 4 years that ive been running this intake and tuned 9 diff times that it was the issue.. just sucks cause where i live soon as it gets below 60. car wont stay running. especially since ive done everything to make it run cold for summer

 

So it sounds like on your model IACV, it has maybe 4 wires going to it to control the action of the valve????

 

thats what your ect sensor is for, as brandon said the coolant lines on the iacv are only there to prevent icing in extreme cold climates. the iacv is a completely electronic output. You're confusing it with the fitv which is a purely mechanical valve where the coolant lines are absolutely necessarry or the wax valve will never heat up and remain open allowing extra air in even once the car is warm. Of course you can internally block the fitv valve if you wish to eliminate the coolant lines.

 

interesting. i guess either the hose is to restricting or mine went bad. i can let the car sit for a week start it up and right away idles at 900