IACV hex key adjust??
man the tb screw is already set as low as it will go.. i already posted all this but i took the tb, iacv, & fitv off and cleaned and tightened everything. throttle cable is not too tight and i checked everywhere for vaccum leaks... reset ecu... coolant is fine.. no air anywhere.. still idle is at 900
As a last resort, what about the physical stop-screw for the throttle shaft? That's supposed to let the throttle butterfly close completely but not wedge itself stuck closed. Normally you don't want to mess with that at all, but what if some misguided former owner used that to raise the idle??
Vacuum leak thru the throttle shaft? Damaged edge of the throttle plate? It wouldn't take much of a leak to raise the idle to 900.
Vacuum leak thru the throttle shaft? Damaged edge of the throttle plate? It wouldn't take much of a leak to raise the idle to 900.
hm.. so if i were to take the tb off and hold it up to the light i shouldn't be able to see any light through the throttle plate at all when it's closed, correct? when i had mine off i could see a very slight ring of light around the plate... maybe that is the problem
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlxSiR7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... take the tb off and hold it up to the light i shouldn't be able to see any light through the throttle plate at all...</TD></TR></TABLE>I haven't done this but I think very little if any light. The only purpose for that stop is so the throttle plate doesn't stick closed. Clean the TB? Maybe it's not the stop screw but some crud in the bore holding the plate open?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaundrake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your ignition timing is too far advanced it can cause a high idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, that's true...
Got a timing light? Warm up the engine, jumper the SCS connector, loosen the bolts on the distributor. Twist the distributor to adjust. Marks are at the crank pulley, 3 marks all together are stock with +/- tolerance.
Got a timing light? Warm up the engine, jumper the SCS connector, loosen the bolts on the distributor. Twist the distributor to adjust. Marks are at the crank pulley, 3 marks all together are stock with +/- tolerance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlxSiR7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have no idea what you just said.. ha</TD></TR></TABLE>ok, ok...
You adjust the spark timing by twisting the distributor in it's mount. Notice the mounts are slotted so it can spin...
Trouble is you have to measure where you're at, you don't just randomly twist it around. You need a timing light. Hook that up to power & to the #1 spark plug wire. Shine it against the crank pulley to show the marks. There's notches cut into the edge of the pulley, & a pointer molded into the lower timing cover.
The single notch all by itself is top-dead-center. Then an inch over to the left are a group of 3 notches. The middle (bigger) one is stock timing. The little ones are +/- allowable error.
You do this with the engine warmed up good, with accessories turned off. The SCS connector is the little blue plug that you use to read ECU error codes. Jumper it with a paper clip. That tells the ECU NOT to make its own little timing adjustments while you're doing this.
You adjust the spark timing by twisting the distributor in it's mount. Notice the mounts are slotted so it can spin...
Trouble is you have to measure where you're at, you don't just randomly twist it around. You need a timing light. Hook that up to power & to the #1 spark plug wire. Shine it against the crank pulley to show the marks. There's notches cut into the edge of the pulley, & a pointer molded into the lower timing cover.
The single notch all by itself is top-dead-center. Then an inch over to the left are a group of 3 notches. The middle (bigger) one is stock timing. The little ones are +/- allowable error.
You do this with the engine warmed up good, with accessories turned off. The SCS connector is the little blue plug that you use to read ECU error codes. Jumper it with a paper clip. That tells the ECU NOT to make its own little timing adjustments while you're doing this.
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