Houston, we have a problem....
I know my car is not a Honda (it's a caprice cop car)
, but I know you guys can point me in the right direction. To make a long story short, I was driving along fine yesterday and I stopped to fill up on gas and check the fluids as usual. I noticed the radiator had a slight dripping leak, so I added Barr's stop leak, put more water&antifreeze (50/50) and was on my way. I had run a few more errands, but noted that it was still leaking, so I was careful to add antifreeze as needed and I DID NOT let the car overheat. I went home and all was good. When I got up this morning to go drop Allen off at the daycare, after adding water and antifreeze, I started it up. A HUGE plume of white smoke puffed out of the exhaust. I looked underneath the car to find antifreeze pouring out of the catalytic converter area. I immediately turned the car off and brought Allen inside. What happened? Why is it leaking like this? Please give me ideas...I need to go to work Monday morning!! BTW, I could see no leaks in the hoses...
, but I know you guys can point me in the right direction. To make a long story short, I was driving along fine yesterday and I stopped to fill up on gas and check the fluids as usual. I noticed the radiator had a slight dripping leak, so I added Barr's stop leak, put more water&antifreeze (50/50) and was on my way. I had run a few more errands, but noted that it was still leaking, so I was careful to add antifreeze as needed and I DID NOT let the car overheat. I went home and all was good. When I got up this morning to go drop Allen off at the daycare, after adding water and antifreeze, I started it up. A HUGE plume of white smoke puffed out of the exhaust. I looked underneath the car to find antifreeze pouring out of the catalytic converter area. I immediately turned the car off and brought Allen inside. What happened? Why is it leaking like this? Please give me ideas...I need to go to work Monday morning!! BTW, I could see no leaks in the hoses...
I thought so....since I do have some car knowledge and some tools and a haynes manual (I have done oil changes/tuneups, etc.), I am about to tackle it myself. ANy tips/things I should watch out for?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just make sure she has the football and tackle below the waist
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha!!
Anybody got a torque wrench I can borrow?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Haha!!
Anybody got a torque wrench I can borrow?
take your time..........and pay attention to detail. being this is a V8 i assume, it will take awhile. THese arent like hondas for sure. you may want to ask others at shops questions as well cause sometimes the manuals dont really have that great of detail. if the car hasnt ran hot then you may want to investigate further......check your oil to see if there is water in it......smell rad fluid to see if you smell gas.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsbad454 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take your time..........and pay attention to detail. being this is a V8 i assume, it will take awhile. THese arent like hondas for sure. you may want to ask others at shops questions as well cause sometimes the manuals dont really have that great of detail. if the car hasnt ran hot then you may want to investigate further......check your oil to see if there is water in it......smell rad fluid to see if you smell gas. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There's no water in the oil or vice versa, but there is a definate leak and antifreeze smell in the passenger compartment of the car (and yes, it's a V8)
There's no water in the oil or vice versa, but there is a definate leak and antifreeze smell in the passenger compartment of the car (and yes, it's a V8)
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsbad454 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the carpet wet under dash area......if the heater core goes out it will leak coolant inside of car......</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need to clarify...
the leak is under the car on the passenger side of the adiator when stationary. When I start the car, water pours fom the catalytic converter area.
I need to clarify...
the leak is under the car on the passenger side of the adiator when stationary. When I start the car, water pours fom the catalytic converter area.
ok i read that...............you also said it smells like coolant inside the car did you not? i really dont see how coolant can pour from cat? if coolant is pouring then the car has major issues.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Be sure you know what your getting into. Changing head gaskets on a pushrod V8 is a major job. </TD></TR></TABLE>
How so?
How so?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackgrrl23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How so?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you have to take apart the whole top of the engine......not exactly easy.
How so?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you have to take apart the whole top of the engine......not exactly easy.
I'd check the heater hoses too. They run along the passenger side of the car to the firewall and if one is bad, water could run along it and drip on the converter.
What year is it? The mid 90's and up used the LT1 motor. If my brain is'nt totally shot, they have aluminum heads, so a gasket is more likely than older iron head motors. Plus that motor uses a reverse flow cooling system that pumps water through the head then the block. They are supposed to be a total pain to get the system bled properly after it is opened up. I'm guessing that as a former cruiser it has a zillion miles on it. They also have some sort of optical sensor pickup behind the water pump instead of a distributor.
A rusted out freeze plug also comes to mind for big coolant loss in a V8.
If it is the gasket and coolant is leaking into the motor, a compression test will probably confirm the head gasket leak. Check the sparkplugs too. The leaking one may have water on it.
Good luck.
What year is it? The mid 90's and up used the LT1 motor. If my brain is'nt totally shot, they have aluminum heads, so a gasket is more likely than older iron head motors. Plus that motor uses a reverse flow cooling system that pumps water through the head then the block. They are supposed to be a total pain to get the system bled properly after it is opened up. I'm guessing that as a former cruiser it has a zillion miles on it. They also have some sort of optical sensor pickup behind the water pump instead of a distributor.
A rusted out freeze plug also comes to mind for big coolant loss in a V8.
If it is the gasket and coolant is leaking into the motor, a compression test will probably confirm the head gasket leak. Check the sparkplugs too. The leaking one may have water on it.
Good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohudsolo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd check the heater hoses too. They run along the passenger side of the car to the firewall and if one is bad, water could run along it and drip on the converter.
What year is it? The mid 90's and up used the LT1 motor. If my brain is'nt totally shot, they have aluminum heads, so a gasket is more likely than older iron head motors. Plus that motor uses a reverse flow cooling system that pumps water through the head then the block. They are supposed to be a total pain to get the system bled properly after it is opened up. I'm guessing that as a former cruiser it has a zillion miles on it. They also have some sort of optical sensor pickup behind the water pump instead of a distributor.
A rusted out freeze plug also comes to mind for big coolant loss in a V8.
If it is the gasket and coolant is leaking into the motor, a compression test will probably confirm the head gasket leak. Check the sparkplugs too. The leaking one may have water on it.
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In answer to your question, it's a 1989 with the 305 engine (if I am not mistaken).
It's too dark to pull the plugs now, so I will give you an update in the morning. Thanks for the info. i am hoping it's just a hose or something...but the way my "sled" is burning white smoke and losing coolant scares me. The antifreeze is literally pouring out of the pipe that connects to the catalytic converter before it even has a chance to get heated by the engine.
What year is it? The mid 90's and up used the LT1 motor. If my brain is'nt totally shot, they have aluminum heads, so a gasket is more likely than older iron head motors. Plus that motor uses a reverse flow cooling system that pumps water through the head then the block. They are supposed to be a total pain to get the system bled properly after it is opened up. I'm guessing that as a former cruiser it has a zillion miles on it. They also have some sort of optical sensor pickup behind the water pump instead of a distributor.
A rusted out freeze plug also comes to mind for big coolant loss in a V8.
If it is the gasket and coolant is leaking into the motor, a compression test will probably confirm the head gasket leak. Check the sparkplugs too. The leaking one may have water on it.
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In answer to your question, it's a 1989 with the 305 engine (if I am not mistaken).
It's too dark to pull the plugs now, so I will give you an update in the morning. Thanks for the info. i am hoping it's just a hose or something...but the way my "sled" is burning white smoke and losing coolant scares me. The antifreeze is literally pouring out of the pipe that connects to the catalytic converter before it even has a chance to get heated by the engine.
I've seen a few 305's crack the heads. To get that volume of coolant out of the motor without it being a leak, I'm afraid that's what you'll find. I really hope it's just a hose or freeze plug. My sister had one that had a bad radiator and someone had disconnected the idiot light so she did not see it overheating. It let go with an audible "crack" and let out a big white cloud. That one needed a new head. Fortunately they made millions of them and a used head is really cheap.
To get the head off, the radiator, fan shroud, water pump, alternator, distributor, intake, and that side of exhaust manifold all have to come off. It tends to be an all day greasy mess kind of job. If it is the head, make sure the replacement has the same casting number. All small block heads will fit, but the wrong one can give wrong compression or not be drilled for the correct accessory mounts.
Maybe in VA everything won't be as rusty as they are up here.
To get the head off, the radiator, fan shroud, water pump, alternator, distributor, intake, and that side of exhaust manifold all have to come off. It tends to be an all day greasy mess kind of job. If it is the head, make sure the replacement has the same casting number. All small block heads will fit, but the wrong one can give wrong compression or not be drilled for the correct accessory mounts.
Maybe in VA everything won't be as rusty as they are up here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohudsolo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen a few 305's crack the heads. To get that volume of coolant out of the motor without it being a leak, I'm afraid that's what you'll find. I really hope it's just a hose or freeze plug. My sister had one that had a bad radiator and someone had disconnected the idiot light so she did not see it overheating. It let go with an audible "crack" and let out a big white cloud. That one needed a new head. Fortunately they made millions of them and a used head is really cheap.
To get the head off, the radiator, fan shroud, water pump, alternator, distributor, intake, and that side of exhaust manifold all have to come off. It tends to be an all day greasy mess kind of job. If it is the head, make sure the replacement has the same casting number. All small block heads will fit, but the wrong one can give wrong compression or not be drilled for the correct accessory mounts.
Maybe in VA everything won't be as rusty as they are up here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, new engine time... she's rusted
Is there anything I can do for a temporary fix? My dad suggested "Gunk Block Seal"...yay or nay?
EDIT: It never overheated or smoked from under the hood area...
To get the head off, the radiator, fan shroud, water pump, alternator, distributor, intake, and that side of exhaust manifold all have to come off. It tends to be an all day greasy mess kind of job. If it is the head, make sure the replacement has the same casting number. All small block heads will fit, but the wrong one can give wrong compression or not be drilled for the correct accessory mounts.
Maybe in VA everything won't be as rusty as they are up here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, new engine time... she's rusted
Is there anything I can do for a temporary fix? My dad suggested "Gunk Block Seal"...yay or nay?
EDIT: It never overheated or smoked from under the hood area...
Check all the hoses, freeze plugs first. Pull the sparkplugs too. If it's leaking that bad, there will be water in the bad one. If there's water in the cylinder, I doubt the sealer will do it, but if you're replacing the motor not just fixing it, what's to lose?
Before taking it too far apart, try finding one of the adaptors, maybe a radiator flush kit, to connect a hose to the rad neck and hook up a garden hose to it. Turn the hose on and follow that stream! Maybe pull the sparkplugs first in case that is where it comes out. Losing a head gasket on one of those motors without overheating is really rare, so it may just be a hard to find leak. Coolant also runs through the intake manifold, so an intake leak or problem with the manifold could also cause water to get into the motor.
With someone who knows what they are doing and a hoist, swapping the motor in one of those is faster than tearing down the old one in place. Just be careful, a complete small block assembled is around 700lbs of body crushing fun.
Before taking it too far apart, try finding one of the adaptors, maybe a radiator flush kit, to connect a hose to the rad neck and hook up a garden hose to it. Turn the hose on and follow that stream! Maybe pull the sparkplugs first in case that is where it comes out. Losing a head gasket on one of those motors without overheating is really rare, so it may just be a hard to find leak. Coolant also runs through the intake manifold, so an intake leak or problem with the manifold could also cause water to get into the motor.
With someone who knows what they are doing and a hoist, swapping the motor in one of those is faster than tearing down the old one in place. Just be careful, a complete small block assembled is around 700lbs of body crushing fun.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohudsolo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check all the hoses, freeze plugs first. Pull the sparkplugs too. If it's leaking that bad, there will be water in the bad one. If there's water in the cylinder, I doubt the sealer will do it, but if you're replacing the motor not just fixing it, what's to lose?
Before taking it too far apart, try finding one of the adaptors, maybe a radiator flush kit, to connect a hose to the rad neck and hook up a garden hose to it. Turn the hose on and follow that stream! Maybe pull the sparkplugs first in case that is where it comes out. Losing a head gasket on one of those motors without overheating is really rare, so it may just be a hard to find leak. Coolant also runs through the intake manifold, so an intake leak or problem with the manifold could also cause water to get into the motor.
With someone who knows what they are doing and a hoist, swapping the motor in one of those is faster than tearing down the old one in place. Just be careful, a complete small block assembled is around 700lbs of body crushing fun.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please feel free to smack me
....where are the freeze plugs located?
Before taking it too far apart, try finding one of the adaptors, maybe a radiator flush kit, to connect a hose to the rad neck and hook up a garden hose to it. Turn the hose on and follow that stream! Maybe pull the sparkplugs first in case that is where it comes out. Losing a head gasket on one of those motors without overheating is really rare, so it may just be a hard to find leak. Coolant also runs through the intake manifold, so an intake leak or problem with the manifold could also cause water to get into the motor.
With someone who knows what they are doing and a hoist, swapping the motor in one of those is faster than tearing down the old one in place. Just be careful, a complete small block assembled is around 700lbs of body crushing fun.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please feel free to smack me
....where are the freeze plugs located?
The freeze plugs are steel discs that are pressed into the sides of the block and are "supposed" to pop out if the water freezes instead of cracking the block. I've never seen it work and what they really do is get old and rusty and either fall out or spring a leak. I think there are some smaller ones on the front and back of the block tool A shop manual should show them fairly well. Also look at a motor out of a car if you can, some auto parts stores have a display engine, often a 305. Look them over if you can.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohudsolo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The freeze plugs are steel discs that are pressed into the sides of the block and are "supposed" to pop out if the water freezes instead of cracking the block. I've never seen it work and what they really do is get old and rusty and either fall out or spring a leak. I think there are some smaller ones on the front and back of the block tool A shop manual should show them fairly well. Also look at a motor out of a car if you can, some auto parts stores have a display engine, often a 305. Look them over if you can.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I checked the freeze plugs and everything over and it has been confirmed: it's the head gasket. Oil has been leaking from there as well over the weekend while it has been sitting. Surprisingly, it still starts and runs, but I am getting a new engine just to be safe, since it's the only transportation for my son and I. (We had to catch the bus at 5:30 in the morning
) Anyone know of inexpensive places to check online? Most people are quoting me ~ $1300+!!!
I checked the freeze plugs and everything over and it has been confirmed: it's the head gasket. Oil has been leaking from there as well over the weekend while it has been sitting. Surprisingly, it still starts and runs, but I am getting a new engine just to be safe, since it's the only transportation for my son and I. (We had to catch the bus at 5:30 in the morning
) Anyone know of inexpensive places to check online? Most people are quoting me ~ $1300+!!!
your local salvage yard should have one. you can get them out of trucks, older RS camaros, or just about any chevy from that time period. call around. then find a ma and pa shop to put it in for you. cheapest way to go.
Another update...I am getting a "friend of a friend" who is going to replace the head gaskets for me for $150, including resurfacing the head and all that stuff. Hopefully I will be back on the road by this weekend. My bus pass was about to run out of money, anyways....but at least I got a good workout carrying my son on and off the bus these past 2 weeks. My experience has taught me two things: Metro service in NoVA sucks...and so do the Fairfax County Po-Po's for ticketing me for an expired inspection. No way it would pass with all that smoke!!!
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