Well I'm at the point now where I have all of my parts for the rebuild, and need to get the block hot tanked. But when it comes to the honing, should I bring it to one of the local shops (domestic machine shops it seems) or just buy a hone stone and do it myself with a drill?

 

I think it would better to bring your block to a machine shop. The machinery is more accurate and it probably won't cost that much either. Just my opion, I would mess around with that.

 

if you only want to hone it, just buy a 3-stone hone for $20 from sears. It's not a big deal. Just don't let the hone spin in one spot too long and you'll be fine.

 

whats a hot tank for?

 

Depends on what the shop charges for it. Shops down here you bring them just the block and they'll hone for $40 and tank it for another $40. And for wm5holla, hot tanking is where the block/head or whatever you want cleaned is submerged in a tank that has solvent or some sort of cleaning agent. It makes anything you put in it come out sqeaky clean.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blah13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depends on what the shop charges for it. Shops down here you bring them just the block and they'll hone for $40 and tank it for another $40. And for wm5holla, hot tanking is where the block/head or whatever you want cleaned is submerged in a tank that has solvent or some sort of cleaning agent. It makes anything you put in it come out sqeaky clean.</TD></TR></TABLE> but theresaon 4 hot tanking it other than it lookin clean?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wm5holla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but theresaon 4 hot tanking it other than it lookin clean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

to be clean, it cleans all the oil passages.i heard hot tanking is not good for alum. blocks.

 

just do it yourself. Get the right stones and follow the directions, it's not that hard. Make sure you clean it out after you're done.

 

honda has pretty clear recommedations regarding honing - like they want (numbers from helm's) 400+ grit stones, honing oil, and a 60 degree cross-hatch pattern. Sounds like you've been ramping up to a rebuild for a bit so you probably don't want to take too many shortcuts. If this is your daily driver, it's really cheap (for the next 150,000 miles) to have the machine shop check all of the numbers and hone it to spec. If this is a race engine, it doesn't matter too much, check the specs and hone it yourself cause you'll be back in there before too long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mathusala &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honda has pretty clear recommedations regarding honing - like they want (numbers from helm's) 400+ grit stones, honing oil, and a 60 degree cross-hatch pattern. Sounds like you've been ramping up to a rebuild for a bit so you probably don't want to take too many shortcuts. If this is your daily driver, it's really cheap (for the next 150,000 miles) to have the machine shop check all of the numbers and hone it to spec. If this is a race engine, it doesn't matter too much, check the specs and hone it yourself cause you'll be back in there before too long.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, 400 grit with just motor oil would work too, just work it in and out and keep the cylinders lubed. Try to get 60 degree hatch and you're set.