I have a 2000 civic si with a b16a2 and I just installed new cams, valvetrain, p&p the head and ctr pistons for 11:1 cr. I have my stock ecu in now and its work perfect. No check engine light and it idles perfectly but I want to get rid of the rev limiter so I have a p28 ecu and the hondata s200 but it won't work. I installed it myself and did everything right. Removed the j12 jumper, checked solder connections...etc. My check engine light comes on and the LED on the s200 interface box has a solid light. I know its not the car because my stock ecu works fine and the conversion harness is a skunk2 so I know its not that. I hope its not the ecu but does anyone have any ideas of what it may be. I've read that the capitators don't need to be installed but some people have problems with out them. Any info would be well appericated. Thanks.

 

If you can rev past 4,000 rpms you have most likely correctly installed your Hondata. The capacitors are not need for proper socketing. That's why they are not included with Hondata's anymore.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you can rev past 4,000 rpms you have most likely correctly installed your Hondata. The capacitors are not need for proper socketing. That's why they are not included with Hondata's anymore.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It goes into limp mode and I can't rev past 3,500rpms. But from what hondata says if it goes into limp mode and the CEL comes on its the ecu or the car. I'm just trying to figure out if it can be anything else because its not the car and I don't feel like buying another ecu. Has anyone had the same problem? I hope its just the ROM.

 

try getting the eeprom reprogrammed, but i would also try another ecu.

 

You might want to take a look at the smaller chip (74HC373) to see if it is soldered in properly. When the 74HC373 (latch) is not working you'll won't be able to rev past 4000 rpms. Just something you might want to check to hone in on your problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might want to take a look at the smaller chip (74HC373) to see if it is soldered in properly. When the 74HC373 (latch) is not working you'll won't be able to rev past 4000 rpms. Just something you might want to check to hone in on your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I took a look at that one and thought it may have got to hot so I soldered in a socket so I would have to solder it in and out. Do you know if I killed it the first time it could kill the ROM?

 

Plop in another one to check.

 

I found a leg of the main processor shorted with another leg, it had been bent over. It didn't fix the problem yet but I hope I can track it down. The check engine light also doesn't come on right away like it used to, it takes a couple of seconds now. If it didn't kill the processor I will be able to fix the problem. Does anyone have schematics for the p28 ecu so I can see if the processor is still good? Or does anyone know the input/outputs for the Hondata ROM? If anyone has a p28 ecu with hondata can they measure the voltages for me?

 

Your talking about the big OKI processor right? or the eeprom? AT29C256.

 

.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your talking about the big OKI processor right? or the eeprom? AT29C256.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I am but I bought another p28 ecu to see if its that and if its not I can just sell one of them. The chip also smells like it fried so I believe thats my problem. Do you have any info on what I can do with that ecu. I don't have the schematics to fix it and I'm not sure where to get the chip. I'm sure its probably expensive

 

Are you tallking about the EEPROM?

There's no reason why your OKI main processor would be fried. It's not touched in the socketing process.

 

No the oki m66207 processor. Its not touched but I bought this ecu off ebay as-is so I think it might of already of been fucked up or I accidently did it when I was installing my hondata.

 

Nah, you got ripped off. Ebay is the market for lemons. That's where alot of **** is dumped.

I had to socket an ECU for a customer and the ECU that he gave me was so fucked up with goopy stuff on the board. The seller of the ECU told my customer that the ecu was in perfect condtion. That's pure crap. Some people have no ethics.

 

Yeah that bastard ripped me off but I'm going to report him to my credit card company. I just got my ecu and noticed a lot of parts missing. I checked hondata to see which parts they were and its the injector test circuit, the air pressure sensor, two transistors in the vtec section. And other various parts but it also looks like a whole different ecu. Its got transistors where a capitator should be. Do they make jdm p28 ecus because this looks real different.

 

Hmm. Not sure about that.

Is the p28 a IPDE unit? Those are made in the US.

 

Yeah the one I just got is but the one I got from singapore is made by denshigiken and the part # is 37820-p28-g01. It looks like a p28 ecu until you compare it to the IPDE ecu.

 

Cool. I like the quality of the IPDE. They look better to me.

 

Do you know the difference between the denshigiken p28 ecu and the IPDE ecu? The guy says he will give me my money back now but its going to cost $25 to send it to singapore so I'm wasting over $50 on shipping but atleast I'm getting something.

 

I am not sure about the functional difference.

 

There should be no function diference. Honda uses different vendors for stuff. As long as the part numbers are the same on teh first five digits nad the middle three. The last three are a model change or a vendor change but are compatible parts otherwise. Id like to know how your situation turns out. I have a friend having troubles with his and I would like to help him out but Im clueless.

 

I dunno if you have already said it or not, but make sure the ecu isn't for an automatic as well... Some kid brought a H22 Vtec prelude into the store a while ago and said his car was running like ****, wouldn't rev up. Turns out, he was running an Si Automatic ecu. Go figure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MEANB18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dunno if you have already said it or not, but make sure the ecu isn't for an automatic as well... Some kid brought a H22 Vtec prelude into the store a while ago and said his car was running like ****, wouldn't rev up. Turns out, he was running an Si Automatic ecu. Go figure </TD></TR></TABLE>

What an idiot. I already got my hondata working it was the old ecu I had bought. I bought another ecu from b18c1_powered_si. It was an automatic so I converted it over to a manual and it works perfectly.