I just converted to obd1 on my lsvtec from obd0-obd1. I used a rywire conversion harness and rywire dizzy conversion plugs. Since my car was already wired up for vtec I had to wire it back to stock. Which wasnt too hard. Here is part of a write up im doing on it showing what all i did so far.

I sourced the ecu from http://www.phearable.net/chippedecus.html
I also bought a obd0-obd1 conversion harness as well as a obd0-obd1 distributor plug conversion harness from http://rywire.com/store/obd0-o...bfb9d
I bought a 4 wire o2 sensor from ebay for about 35 bucks. But come to find out that I dont need it with the ecu I got from phearable. So Im putting that up for sale. I got an obd1 distributor from ebay as well for about 130 bucks brand spankin new.
Now for the conversion it sucks because it is already wired up to have vtec. So I will have to wire it back up to be stock. It shouldnt take too long. Just some solder and shrink tube and its good. Plug and play rocks. I will be rewireing everything with black wire to be a bit more invisable. And i will be using my one wire o2 sensor plug as the vtec solenoid plug because i dont have one for mine. It will look a lot more clean with black wire and the plug.

So first I had to figure out where all the wires went to from my ecu wires.


This is the first wire I cut and followed into the engine bay.


I followed it all the way to the vtec pressure switch.


The second wire I wanted to figure out was this weird black wire that was rigged into the smallest black plug.



I cut it and followed it to one of my two o2 sensors. I dont need the o2s any more because of my chipped p28 ecu. So I ripped it out the the plug and clipped the wire on the o2 sensor.

The third wire I cut was the yellow wire on the biggest ecu plug.


I followed that to the vtec solenoid.


This last wire I cut and followed to the knock sensor. So I cut that off since I also dont need that with my chipped p28.


So after I followed all those I trimmed down the wires and resoldered it back to their original place.


Now i finally got the distributor and its a td44. and i put the spark plug wires back in the correct firing order 3 4
1 2
The car started right up and had no problem. It idled around 1300 for cold start and it went down as it warmed up. Then i did an ignition timing check after it warmed all the way up and I put it in the middle line on the three marks.

So then i took it out for a ride. But at first it jumped a couple times as i tried to go. Seemed weird and i turned around and used a little gas and it just felt like it was bogging. So i pulled over in my parking lot and looked and everything sounded and looked fine. So i pulled out and drove it around and it just boggs at part throttle but at wot it flys. When I got back home I wanted to check my ignition timing again so i started it up and the idle surged for about 10 seconds up to about 2,500 and back down. Then it ran smooth, and I checked the ignition timing and it was still at the same place. Does anyone have any ideas???

 

up

 

wrong spark plug order.

1,3,4,2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wrong spark plug order.

1,3,4,2</TD></TR></TABLE>

he has it listed like...

34
12

Which is correct. Looking from the passenger side of the car into the engine bay, reading from bottom left, clockwise...

Possible too rich/lean on the low end throttle? Is your check engine light on? Lots of possibilities. with all those different additional parts you just added on.

 

yeah, i have it in that way. My car just really doesnt like part throttle. I drove it around again and it just bogs like hell if its in low rpms. But if i down shift and floar it it runs smooth. Im confused.

 

do you guys think advancing or retarding my ignition timing might help?

 

did you do the paperclip trick with the passenger side connector before you did your timing? that stops the ecu from adjusting ignition timing, and will affect results if you don't do it.

 

IF YOU RUNNING OBD1 ECU YOUR GOING TO NEED A 4 WIRE O2 SENSOR. IF YOUR ECU DOSEN'T SUPPORT A 4 WIRE O2 SENSOR NEED A ECU THAT DOSE.

 

whoa dude lay off the caps. The ecu was chipped so I dont need the o2 sensor. I actually did not do the paper clip thing. I forgot about that. I will try that out and see if that works.

 

Well i used a paper clip on that plug and adjusted my ignition timing to about 17 degrees. I didnt know what the hell happened because when i tried to drive my car it was acting REALLY weird. every time i let off the gas it would jerk. It kept doing that. but at the same time it didnt have that hesitation problem. So i adjusted it back to 16 degrees and drove that. It still acted weird. I was so ****** pissed i just floored it and red lined it. Then something happened. It had no power and it sounded like a ****** harley. It was like du du du du du du du. I just wanted to kill someone. But i pulled over and saw that my #4 plug on the dizzy was disconnected. So i plugged that back it in and now its fine. But it still has that hesitation. So im going to go back home and adjust it back up to 17 degrees and see what happens.

 

Just leave the timing alone. Being at 14 degrees or 20 degrees, wouldn't have the drastic effect you speak of. Set it to stock and leave it. Then go find another ecu to try.

What is your setup? Stock? Go find any stock OBD1 ecu to try.

 

Set up is b16a head b18b block. p30 pistons. gsr cams. Skunk2 IM. CAI. Golden eagle fuel rail. I dont exactly have a obd1 ecu redaly available. My friend might be in town with his car thats obd1. But i will get back to you when i switch ecus.

 

well, my friend actually has a obd2 ecu. So that was major shittyness. So that means i have to wait for my friend to chip his ecu, which wont be for quite a while to even have a chance to see if its the ecu thats the problem.

 

What do you mean exactly when you say that it's chipped? Were the fuel and timing maps tampered with? If so, then there's your problem. Get it tuned properly.

Why would you ever want to run w/out an O2 sensor? Is this a track-only car? Is the ECU not capable of running closed loop? If not, it's trash. At least as far as street driveability is concerned. You get more performance, driveability, economy, engine and exhaust component longevity by running an O2 sensor.

 

well i didnt exactly know all of this before hand. But i actually got my hands on another chipped p28 ecu and i put it in and it solved my problem. Im going to email phearable.net tonight and ask them why my car is running like **** on their ecu.

 

It seems that I might be running hella lean. Before it would take 150 miles to go through half a tank but right now im at 200 and im not even at half tank, im right before it.

 

Im not having much luck with phearable on getting my ecu fixed so i think i might have to take it to a shop and shell out more money to get this ecu working right. Kinda pissing me off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not having much luck with phearable on getting my ecu fixed so i think i might have to take it to a shop and shell out more money to get this ecu working right. Kinda pissing me off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would just spend 75-100 bucks or so and find an OBD1 P30 ecu. Try it out and see if it fixes your problem. If so or no, just turn around and sell it.

 

They are actually going to send me a new chip with a different program on it for free. So that makes me really happy. But if that doesnt work then I will try and get a different ecu. But im trying to get this done quick because im going to head to the track and dyno it the 1st of next month.

 

Your assumption about running lean is incorrect. Running lean will give you bad mileage just as much as running rich. The only real way to know your AFR is with a wide band O2 like the ones they use at smog shops and dynos.

This advice is too late for you, but when converting from OBD0 to OBD1 or doing any kind of motor swap, it's best to start with a virgin ECU. Then once you have the car running correctly without codes, you can install aftermarket engine management.

 

well i had obd0 for quite some time. It was on there for about 6 months or so. I worked out all the little problems I had with the lsvtec swap and thats when i decided to go obd1.

 

so i got some new chips in. One is the itr program and the other was a b16 type program. So I tried the itr chip first and it felt better. But as I drove around it didnt feel right. I could still feel the hesitation. Almost like a studder. So I tried the b16 chip and it felt like crap like the chip i had in there to begin with. Im thinking its fuel related. I had a problem like this and it ended up being the o2 sensor and still had a studder problem and it was the fuel filter. Could it be the old *** injectors? Once I get a header that accepts the one o2 sensor at the collector I will be getting the chip reprogramed to accept ano2 sensor.

 

Any good ideas.

 

So I bought a header that accepts an o2 sensor at the collector. It should be here soon. Once I get it I will head over to a shop and get the o2 sensor **** turned back on in the program.

 

What is the condition of your cat?