My car just threw CEL code 54 and from the website http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/codes.html it says

CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

Well this happened shortly after my clutch started slipping...two days later actually. The clutch is slipping real bad. If I add medium gas to any gear it will slip and the car wont accelerate. This was due to a 5-4 downshift on the stock clutch with 105K miles. After that downshift I smelled some burning inside the cabin even though the air was on indoors. It went away shortly. Now the clutch slips and suddently two days later the code is throw.

Could this mean the timing belt jumped??? Is it somehow related to the clutch problem? Please I need my car driveable to work. THANKS to anyone even READING the thread...peace

 

That's weird. I had the SAME CEL code pop up a couple months ago. I had absolutely NO Problems with my Clutch. Funny thing is... the CEL light went away the next day.

Went to the Shop and asked them what the problem was and why it went away, and they said the car fixed the problem by itself....


It doesn't come on anymore.

 

I am going to reset the ecu and see what happens.

 

I reset the ecu and the code dissappeared for a days worth of driving but it came back on. The new clutch and flywheel are in. I started it up and it seemed like there was not enough fuel since the throttle response was very slow. The fpr was at 60psi at this point and I raised it to 64psi and now the response seems to be back to normal. There is still hesitation/lag when accelerating at around 3k rpms. Code 54 is still throwing and a mechanic friend said it may be the distributor going out or the coil. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

 

If it is code 54, why dont you replace the CFK sensor like the ecu tells you to?

The distributor will have nothing to do with this code.

I've had 2 go bad on me already, thank goodness i dont need em anymore.

 

LOL alright, should I just go to the dealer and get one or go to the junk yard? Are they pricey? Thanks

 

Outside of throwing a code and making the dumb light turn on my understanding is the CKF will have no affect on performance. It just sits there behind your crank pulley and is used to determine which cylinder is responsible in case of a missfire. Anyone else? Agree/disagree?

 

i have seen nothing different running with or without it other than the misfire codes
as you said. Otherwise it masks other codes by keeping the check engine light on
which annoyed me.

 

After my swap, I popped the CKF light. Been meaning to go back and check my wiring because i used a harness that had 3 wires for the CKF and the B18C1 has a 2 wire. It is annoying but I've learned to live with that light. It was always on before because I was running a computer looking for knock sensor with an engine that didn't have one. I think I'd miss it if it was gone, we've been through alot.

 

So coult it be my timing is off or my timing belt jumped a tooth? I am still experiencing lag in acceleration. It is the same feel as if the clutch isnt grabbing. Thanks

 

check your cam timing then. not hard to do

 

How would cam timing pop a CKF trouble code?

 

I am going to get a timing light and check it hopefully by Friday. Thanks for the info guys.

The CKF sensor is $120.14 by the way.

 

timing light wont help you
you need to check cam timing relative to the crank

 

The distributor is what gives the ecu cylinder position and TDC signals.
The dist is driven by the intake cam. if thats off then it COULD throw the code.
This is just a guess, not sure if the ecu would throw a misfire code rather than
the CFK code.

My money is still on the sensor though

 

Isn't the Cylinder Position Sensor (CYP) at the crank on OBDII cars rather than the distributor? I know it is on the prelude...that's why you can't advance the timing.


[Modified by satan_srv, 4:35 PM 10/9/2002]

 

The CKF is down behind the crank pulley so I'm not sure why we're talkin about the ditributor. My money is on a bad sensor too.

 

Did you measure the resistance of the sensor and check it against spec?

 

Hmmm sgT you stated that there should be no difference with or without the CKF sensor. Does this mean that my car should still be running the same as before even if the CKF sensor is broken or does the CKF have to be disconnected/taken out? Thanks

 

It's just OBD2 crap. Won't affect performance, just gives you a yellow glow from your dash.

 

Well my cars performance is affected. I am lagging/bogging when i accelerated. It seems harder to accelerate alltogether.

I still dont understand why my fpr wont let me adjust it back down to 55psi and 60psi is the lowest I can go. Also at 60psi the car's throttle response is very low so I raised it. Anyone else have any more ideas???

 

Maybe I should go OBDI to get rid of the code lol

 

don't laugh
got my P28 right here, gotta do it anyway for Hondata

 

your fuel pressure is 60psi????? is it static or not? it seem too high to me. amyway, if u want to get rid of the 54, just connect the b4 to b1.

 

Well it is 60psi with the vacuum hose off and that is the lowest I can adjust it. I use to be able to adjust it lower than 55psi because thats what I had it set at in the first place. After taking a 3 hour trip it suddently changed by itself.