ok ... so here it is ... before i took the head off (crx si) i had....

#1- 200
#2-200
#3-200
#4-150 .................. my brother said it was blowing white smoke out of the car, but i never saw it ran to see if it was white or white/blue ...

well, i took the head off and cleaned off the head gasket real nice .... and i got myself a 3 ply y8 headgasket and torqued it down to 50lbs, via the helm book ........ now i havent tried to start the car, but my ******* compression is fucked!!!!!!

#1 - 140
#2 - 120
#3- 200
#4- 155

WHAT THE **** DID I DO WRONG??????

 

did u use a NEW headgaket?

also the engine must be hot to do a compression test

 

maybe the head is warped?

 

i used a brand new y8 head gasket ....

its the same head that came off the block, the car was not overheated before hand, and it was removed in bolt pattern acording to helms ...

 

Did the clear the mating surfaces real good..

 

Could cam timing throw compression off that much???

 

Did yo umake sure NO gasket material at all was left on the head/block?And also,check your cam timing.With compression numbers that low you should still be able to start the car,but with bad cam timing your car wont start and will show bad compression numbers.

 

the gasket material was entirely taken off ..... perfect clean surface ......

yes, cam timing could throw it off that much but i double checked it and set it up a tdc .... and even so, the once cylinder at 200 tell me its probaly not cam timing ....

should i try and start the car??? do u think the compression would magicaly perk up???

cause at this point im about to tear the head back off and do the water in the combustion chamber check to make sure i didnt **** up any of the valves on the install .....

 

If yuor cam timing is good,than your valves shouldnt be messed up.Spin the crank over with a wrench a few times to make sure you dont feel/hear any valve contact.If everything is good,than try to start it.Also,are you 100% sure all of the head bolts are tightened?

 

i was just wondering if i may have messed them up before i got the head back on the car ... idk ....]

wouldnt it be bad to start up a car with that kind of compression>?? like i said, is the comipression going to magicaly perk up???


and as far as the head bolts ... i just bought a brand new craftsman torque wrench ..... so it should be working properly .. i even just went outside and toqued further to 60lbs .... and still the same compression results ....

 

Starting the car with that compression wont cause anything bad to happen.If everything else was done by the book,than youve probably got a few slightly bent valves.But like I said,spin the crank over with a socket/ratchet a few times and listen/feel for any noises/contact.If theres nothing out of the ordinary,than try to start it and let it run for a few mintes,than check compression.Sometimes it does get slightly better.

 

is it possible for the gasket to have moved a little out of place while you put the head back on?..i would do what the other guy said and turn the crank to make sure nothing is binding and make sure the timing is exact as possible then fire it up and see..could it just be the tools you used to check the compression?...good luck

 

Did you readjust the valves? Personally I would run the car and check compression again. You have probably losenend some carbon in the chamber and it is under some valves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spaceman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it possible for the gasket to have moved a little out of place while you put the head back on?..i would do what the other guy said and turn the crank to make sure nothing is binding and make sure the timing is exact as possible then fire it up and see..could it just be the tools you used to check the compression?...good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont know how the headgasket could have moved... isnt it held in place by the head bolts and the dowel pins???? the compression tester is fine ....

 

i did not readjust the valves ... didnt think i would need to since i didnt take the cams out, and the compression was fine in the first 3 cylinders before i took the head off....

 

Readjust the valves, start the car, check comp. again.

 

well ... the motor started .... ran like ***!!!!

i got a code 6 and a code 16 even after resetting the ecu ....

i let it run for about a minute and shut her down .... afteward the compression test resulted in the same shitty numbers....

there was alot of oil on the block ... on the #4 cylinder, where the problem began in the first place ...

i noticed at the first flange(2 piece header) it was wet at the flange... i ripped the header off to see moisture, which im guessing was oil in the #4 runner ... it quickly evaporated before my eyes.... the #4 plus was wet and pretty black/oily like ...

the car did not smoke at all though??? not from the exhaust.... is it possible the car did not warm up enough???? ...... i did not refill it with coolant yet and obviosly the water pump would not kick in before reaching high enough temps .... when i installed the head the coolant level was over an inch under the top of the sleeves... leafin me to belive that it is not coolant that is leaking, being that there should be no coolant head....

so what can we be looking at????? blown rings???? can bad valve guides dump this sort of oil????

and all in all what the **** would be throwing my code 16????, and none of this yet adds up to why i have shitty compression in cylinders #1 and #2

my first head gasket change that should be rutine ..... and its turned into a nightmare???? could it never had been the headgasket from the start???? and y do i have shitty compression in #1 and #2 .....

i swear, ive got more problems that a blind kid playing Duck Hunt!!!

 

Don't freak out so much. One thing, did you let the engine THOROUGHLY cool before starting to disassemble everything? Also, just because this car has never been "overheated" while in your/your brothers possession doesnt mean its never been overheated at all. Your problem from the start could have been a warped head/block mating surface. I definately woulda used a straightedge and some feeler guages on both surfaces to check for warpage.

Also, in my opinion, "by the book" means by the book...overtorquing is definately not that. A few ft/lbs probably wouldnt amount to a hill of beans, but if Helms said factory torque was right at 50 ft/lbs...i woulda set the damn thing to exactly that.

 

i did set it at 50lbs the first time...

the only thing i didnt do by the book was use new head bolts... cause my bro dont have the money, and i torqued down harder because everyone has been telling em that there are higher torwue numbers when reusing head bolts.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hatchattack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did set it at 50lbs the first time...

the only thing i didnt do by the book was use new head bolts... cause my bro dont have the money, and i torqued down harder because everyone has been telling em that there are higher torwue numbers when reusing head bolts.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is my guess at the problem.

Yes, when reusing head bolts (which is iffy to begin with) the bolts will have a different amount of stretch compaired to new ones. However you can't just decide to torque them down 10ft/lbs more or whatnot.

I would get new headbolts or studs, and a new gasket, and start over again.

 

i had the same prob when i did my head and gasket... when you took the head off you have to take the bolts out in reverse of the order they tell you to tighten them, also you have to take them out a quater turn at a time, if you just wrenched them out you could have warpped the head, i would remove it again, get a new gasket, new bolts, and take the head to a machine shop to have it leak tested and have the mating surface trued... shouldnt cost too much to do that.

goodluck

 

the bolts were removed and installed in sequence as states in the manual ....

if there is warpage of the head/block i think i may just junk the motor.... is it realyl worth having a d series with 190k on it machined???? i could probaly pick another motor up for $150????

 

getting a head decked is like 15.00

 

is it really???? and where would u do that???? and y??? get it decked if its warped??? is that the same as milling????

 

#1 adjust the valves and start it again. If it still runs like ****, then I assume the head to be warped. You went from a forgiving Graphite/steel to an unforgiving coated steel gasket. You will have more difficulty getting a good seal with the Y8 gasket if there are issues with the head or deck sealing surfaces.