Armed Ferret

I've used about 30 applications of AeroKroil and the locknut that sits against the outer tie rod is still frozen in place. Anyone have any other tricks to use? Obviously air tools are out of the question since it's in between the inner and outer tie rods (there's no way to get an impact over anything as they don't make sockets anywhere NEAR that deep)........thoughts?

Kamin

yes they do
they make open head wrenches and sockets
check out sears or ace hardware

Armed Ferret

well i'm not exactly trying with my teeth i'm using open-end wrences right now, but it's just not budging at all.


what i'm sayin is would heating it up with a torch work, or would that just kill the inner rod? i don't want to have to replace parts that are good now because i kill them in the process......

here's a photo of the lil' bugger:



from the illustrations in my helms, the large nut which is quite obvious is the locknut, and then to remove it you clamp on the hex end of the outer tie rod which in the photo is just in front of it, and then loosen the nut. the nut is frozen on there and absolutely will not budge.


[Modified by SlowRedTeg, 12:32 PM 2/1/2003]

Armed Ferret

nobody knows????

b19coupe

You need help from a mechanic who works back East where all the bolts get corroded from salt. Out here in California we rarely see that kind of problem. An open end 19mm or 22mm wrench (depending on the year of your car) is all it takes to loosen the locknut. A good Snap-on or Craftsman wrench, not a Taiwanese piece of junk. Soaking with WD-40 or penetrating oil should help. If it still doesn't budge, maybe a little heat from a torch might help, not too much though.


[Modified by b19coupe, 7:02 PM 2/1/2003]

Armed Ferret

1. I don't live in california.

2. I only own Craftsman. Mainly because Snap-On are really really expensive, and Craftsman still can be replaced when (rarely) they break.

3.
I'm gonna keep tryin, and man I'm praying I don't have to cut anything. I think I'm gonna go upgrade my engine grounds while I'm trying to figure out what to do.


[Modified by SlowRedTeg, 7:31 PM 2/1/2003]

jlicrx

did you try holding the jam nut and turning the tie rod end? usually not as much rust inside the tie rod end.

racerxadam

if you are replacing the outer tie rod end anyway you should just heat it up with a torch. there is quite a bit of distance from there to the joint on the inner tie rod and if you're concentrating the heat on the outer end the inner should be fine. nothing works as well as heat for rusty stuff like that. If you can get the outer joint loose the nut should be easy after that.

Armed Ferret

yeah i wrote something here, then realized how incoherent it was due to just how f'in tired i am.


i'll come back in the morning after i try some propane.


[Modified by SlowRedTeg, 11:41 PM 2/1/2003]

Raz1983

i had the same prob with a tercel i was working on
i got it off, but some things you could think about:

soak it with WD-40 or CRC or whatever for a while
hold the tierod with a vicegrip
use a breaker bar with a tube on it
use 2 open end/box end wrenches. connect the open end with the box end
heat the nut alittle

hope this helps


[Modified by Raz1983, 8:38 AM 2/2/2003]

SikofFalln

I had the same problem and I live in the midwest where there is salt and **** from winter. Put a torch to it, that is what I had to do to get mine off.

Armed Ferret

**** it, i just took out the entire ******* rack. might as well make sure the rest of it works i guess.


****** japanese piece of ****.

Armed Ferret

woohoo.....got a DAMN smooth EF manual steering rack at the boneyard today......45 bucks baby!! gonna hybridize the tie rods a little, remove that weight, and give me a lil better road feel too. Just gotta get the exhaust fixed now!! yay!

X0

So i guess it's "if at first you don't succeed, replace it"

Turbo Powa

Torch it

Armed Ferret

hehe kinda.....i actually was planning on modifying my p/s lines to keep some fluid (and therefore lubricate the system), but not use the pump or most of the lines. This is actually a big plus for me, because converting to a full manual rack is not only easier to "fabricate", but it's also along the lines of doing it right the first time. power racks are for power steering. manual racks are for manual steering.


i do want to thank those of you who took time to check this out and offer suggestions; 99% of the time i'm sure they'd all work great, with no problems. my car sucks tho. the woman who owned it before me kept it washed, gassed, and the oil changed. that's about it. original tranny blew last winter, replaced both front calipers last summer and am fenna do the rears soon.......ah well. makes it that much more "my" car, eh? thanks y'all. I H-T


[Modified by SlowRedTeg, 8:17 PM 2/3/2003]