Having engine problems PLEASE HELP!!! 98 ITR
someone just tell me if these look right? I set it to TDC and moved the distributer back to the middle because it was all the way advanced inorder to just get 18 deg, tomar ill redo the timing. Does it look like everything lines up, the tdc line is just alittle infront of the line like a 1/4 of an inch. O btw the car starts and runs normal just feels mighty sluggish especially in lower rpms compared to before i f'd with the timing so i dont think it jumped a tooth but idk how to check?

Modified by importknight at 7:52 PM 8/22/2008
Modified by importknight at 7:53 PM 8/22/2008
Modified by importknight at 8:47 PM 8/22/2008
Modified by importknight at 8:47 PM 8/22/2008
Modified by importknight at 8:49 PM 8/22/2008

Modified by importknight at 7:52 PM 8/22/2008
Modified by importknight at 7:53 PM 8/22/2008
Modified by importknight at 8:47 PM 8/22/2008
Modified by importknight at 8:47 PM 8/22/2008
Modified by importknight at 8:49 PM 8/22/2008
You need to jump the SCS connector before setting timing. And 18 degrees is too much base timing. I think factory is 16, I would stick with that, if not retard it some.
Check your camshaft timing to make sure you didn't skip a tooth, if that's ok, set the damn ignition timing back to stock. I don't care if everybody bumps their timing up, you could be getting detonation by increasing it those 2 degrees because EVERY ENGINE IS A LITTLE DIFFERENT. Don't try to tune if you don't know how to. Learn how to drive. You're car is 10 years old, sh*ts not factory fresh. If you want a 1/4 mile car, buy something else.
Is there anything I'm missing?
Is there anything I'm missing?
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alright does this look right it seems that when all the cam markings line up the bottom mark is less then a 1/4 of an in infront of the line. now if i move the distributer back to the middle and get my timing gun and then set the timing after the cars put back together should everything be ok?


I just don't like basing things off of the crankshaft pulley, I like to see look at the actual crank. It's not too big of a deal to remove the p/s and a/c belts to remove the pulley itself, but that pulley can be a pain to get off some days.
Edit : I keep spelling pulley incorrectly.
Edit : I keep spelling pulley incorrectly.
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