http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Let me know what u think. Thinking about trying it.

 

Lots do it. I will be doing it once my build is complete.

-Ryan

 

Largely academic with no substantial proof to go along with it other than 2 pictures of pistons and no other data.

He's trying to prove his idea in theory, whereas the car manufacturers base their methods on scientific testing, measurement and experience of building hundreds of thousands of engines, not just 300.

He could be right, but I am not an engineer of such things so unless _solid_ proof is offered to support/deny his claims, he's just another dude on the internet with an idea.

Cheers,
Roy

 

A very good engine builder once told me, "If you break her in soft, she'll only like it soft; if you break her in hard, she'll scream every time you go for a ride." So that's how I see it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc231 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A very good engine builder once told me, "If you break her in soft, she'll only like it soft; if you break her in hard, she'll scream every time you go for a ride." So that's how I see it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ditto

also the manufacuers thing that everyone says is from when they used sand casting to make the blocks they do not use this technology anymore. I do it just like the article so does my dad.

 

I did a modified version of this break in and my car is running pretty strong after 10,000 miles. I did the 20 minutes at 2500 rpms. Then let the motor cool, drove it, started at 3000 rpms took it to 6500 rpms in 3rd gear at about half throttle. Then let compression slow it down, ie. no brakes. Did this for about 20 miles or so. Change the oil right afterwards and continue breaking in for the next 1000 or so miles.

 

slow break in methods were for all the loose clearance, shitty honed cylinder wall motors of yester year

with todays tight clearances and ~1 mm rings instead of the big ole hunkers, todays rings seat MUCH faster so there is no need for the slow break in.

you don't have to pound the **** out of a motor, but the grandma driving for 1000 miles is crap.

 

1-start new engine and let it warm up naturally ,[ checking all its fluids oil press.and for any assembly leaks] use a non syn oil for this breakin
2-Let engine cool down
3- Restart engine and let it come to temp again, this time check timing and make ajustments ,If all is good check throttle responce, and do this smoothly.blip the throttle a couple of times and let cool again
4-now you are ready to drive/race
5- Run the engine smothly through the rpm band, do not hit limitter
6-After a couple of sessions on track or after the first race then you can drain the oil [check it ] then out in oil of your choice and your off
Stormpower Race engines
WCS Motorsports
#12 CRX Si

 

ive tried it and would not do it any other way from now on...my oil stays clean and the motor doesent burn one drop!

 

Did you read everything? He has dyno charts to back up his method. How do you get moresolid proof than that? He also stated that at least one manufacturer uses the same method.
I still have yet to hear a scientific reason not to do this.

 

Different engines use different types of ring materials and bore hones. A car engine from the factory has very hard rings for longevity, so it will take a lot longer for them to break in than a high performance motorcycle engine.

 

IMO everyone's got an opinion on breaking in an engine. Just do what you feel is right!