GSR Bogging Bad
Car was driving perfect, went to my local Chevron, filled up with 93 oct. and it continued to run fine. Drove around, ran some errands.
Drove to the grocery store, went in for a few minutes came out started driving home and noticed the bogging issue when taking off from a stop light.
Pulled into my garage to check under the hood.
Full tank of Chevron 93 oct.
Oil level is perfect
OEM distributor -less than one year old
New NGK plugs
No loose or disconnected wires
No leaking fluids
If I bring the RPMs up slowly, it doesn't really bog at all.
However, when I do it quickly, the motor bogs like crazy!
What else should I be looking for?
Drove to the grocery store, went in for a few minutes came out started driving home and noticed the bogging issue when taking off from a stop light.
Pulled into my garage to check under the hood.
Full tank of Chevron 93 oct.
Oil level is perfect
OEM distributor -less than one year old
New NGK plugs
No loose or disconnected wires
No leaking fluids
If I bring the RPMs up slowly, it doesn't really bog at all.
However, when I do it quickly, the motor bogs like crazy!
What else should I be looking for?
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Do you have a fuel pressure guage? How does the pressure look? How does it look when you accelerate? May just need to change the fuel filter as it sounds like some bad gas possibly or maybe the fuel pump is going out/fuel filter sock is plugged. All the MAP, IACV, FIAV, PCV and TPS stuff is great, but it's not going to change just from starting and stopping the car in the middle of running errands. They are usually problems that get progressively worse, or have complete failures. Look for something simple.
Update:
I took the car out last Thursday and it ran fine, didn't do anything weird at all.
So I'm thinking, cool. Everything is fine.
Well, I took it out again today. Beat on it pretty good, took it to 9K a couple times and it ran great!
Stopped off at Target, grabbed a couple things. Came back, started it up, idled fine.
Gave it a little gas and IT'S BACK!!!!!!!!
It sputters, pops, backfires, etc. But only when I give it gas quickly. If it's gradual, then it seems fine.
It almost sounds like an old VW bug when it's acting up and seems like it's going to die when I give too much gas. On the freeway it was fine.
Here's my set-up just for reference:
93SI
B18C1 head/block
Portflow dual springs/retainers
Blox B's
Skunk2 IM
RC 310cc Injectors
3'' intake to V-stack
ARP studs/bolts
P30 pistons
Kidd Racing Header
Skunk2 Mega Power Exhaust
Walbro 190 Fuel Pump
Tuned on Hondata S-100
I took the car out last Thursday and it ran fine, didn't do anything weird at all.
So I'm thinking, cool. Everything is fine.
Well, I took it out again today. Beat on it pretty good, took it to 9K a couple times and it ran great!
Stopped off at Target, grabbed a couple things. Came back, started it up, idled fine.
Gave it a little gas and IT'S BACK!!!!!!!!
It sputters, pops, backfires, etc. But only when I give it gas quickly. If it's gradual, then it seems fine.
It almost sounds like an old VW bug when it's acting up and seems like it's going to die when I give too much gas. On the freeway it was fine.
Here's my set-up just for reference:
93SI
B18C1 head/block
Portflow dual springs/retainers
Blox B's
Skunk2 IM
RC 310cc Injectors
3'' intake to V-stack
ARP studs/bolts
P30 pistons
Kidd Racing Header
Skunk2 Mega Power Exhaust
Walbro 190 Fuel Pump
Tuned on Hondata S-100
dizzy going out, you just aint got the code yet..
I fought with the same exact thing, except i was driving normal and tried to mash into it, it'd just sputter and ****, and if i easied on it slight, it'd go ahead.. but give it a few more days and its going to throw either a TDC code or cyl position code.. either way, get a new dizzy.
You'll get code 8 and code 9 in the next few days..
I fought with the same exact thing, except i was driving normal and tried to mash into it, it'd just sputter and ****, and if i easied on it slight, it'd go ahead.. but give it a few more days and its going to throw either a TDC code or cyl position code.. either way, get a new dizzy.You'll get code 8 and code 9 in the next few days..
dizzy going out, you just aint got the code yet..
I fought with the same exact thing, except i was driving normal and tried to mash into it, it'd just sputter and ****, and if i easied on it slight, it'd go ahead.. but give it a few more days and its going to throw either a TDC code or cyl position code.. either way, get a new dizzy.
You'll get code 8 and code 9 in the next few days..
I fought with the same exact thing, except i was driving normal and tried to mash into it, it'd just sputter and ****, and if i easied on it slight, it'd go ahead.. but give it a few more days and its going to throw either a TDC code or cyl position code.. either way, get a new dizzy.You'll get code 8 and code 9 in the next few days..
I replaced my entire dizzy about 2 years ago and it was causing a similar symptoms, not to this extent though. Brand new, OEM.
Should I just replace the cap and rotor?
UPDATE-
My car is back and running better than ever!
The culprit? BAD GAS!!!!
I took it to my mechanic and he figured it out pretty quick. The spark
plugs were covered in gunk and the car was to the point where I could barely drive it.
Put new gas/plugs in, and it solved the problem.
I appreciate the help guys.
Shout out to Evan at 360 Imports for making today a solid Birthday.
My car is back and running better than ever!
The culprit? BAD GAS!!!!
I took it to my mechanic and he figured it out pretty quick. The spark
plugs were covered in gunk and the car was to the point where I could barely drive it.
Put new gas/plugs in, and it solved the problem.
I appreciate the help guys.
Shout out to Evan at 360 Imports for making today a solid Birthday.
Drive it for awhile.. If it was bad gas it would be doing it, the entire time. Easing on the throttle and then mashing it, wouldn't just be a symptom of bad gas.
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