Hey guys, I've got a very good idea of what I overall want to do (parts list in first response), however I'm having difficulty deciding what engine block to use as my foundation for my build, and how to best manage my funds with my current engine setup to minimize my losses. I'm shooting to COMFORTABLY make upwards of 600WHP.

I will need to either break apart the engine in my car and rebuild it with new forged internals and get it sleeved, or sell it altogether and start with a blank/empty block.

Right now, I have a B18C1 engine in my car with all Type-R internals (crank, rods, cams, valves, valvetrain..), only exception is B16 pistons from a Civic Si. I'm debating on either breaking this block down and selling all the internals, which could prove difficult to get rid of as well as get maximum cash value, or whether to just sell this engine altogether (possibly in addition to my transmission).

I also have a bare (no internals) B20B block in my garage. The block was decked upon my purchase of it for $100, or so I was told. A major downside however is that this block has helicoil on the head stud threads, and I was told that I would need to have the block Timesert'd for it to properly hold the torque of an engine head. I've also read from other posts that B20 blocks are not always the best for sleeving due to the way in which the center two cylinders are binded, however I've heard some people have still had success with them.

What does Honda-Tech think the best course of action would be for me? I could:

1. Try selling the B20 block and getting a new B18 block, however those seem to cost $100-$200 more and I can't find any locally, so I may have to have one shipped.

2. Timesert the B20 block I have (~$400) and get it sleeved at Golden Eagle. I would then sell my B18C engine in it's entirety (however I would need to acquire a GSR/B16 head if I used the B20)

3. Take apart my B18C and sell all the internals separately, as well as my B20 block.

Any insight is appreciated. I initially wanted to do the B20 build for the displacement/torque numbers, but I've heard that the center 2 cylinders can be prone to sinking or other breakage due to the way they're designed. I also bought this block before I realized it needed to be timesert'd.

Here's a list of the parts I plan to use. Some of the part #'s are invalid as this was initially built on the assumption of a B20 block.

 

ENGINE:
B20 Block
GSR Head (3 Angle Valve Job, Ported & Polished)
Golden Eagle Sleeves 85mm
Golden Eagle Block Guard
CP Pistons 9:1 85mm
Manley H-Beam Rods
Skunk2 70mm Alpha Throttle Body
Skunk2 Stage1 Pro Cams (305-05-0145)
Skunk2 Tuner Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers (311-05-0350)
FERRERA OR SKUNK2 VALVES (undecided)
Edelbrock Victor-X Intake Manifold
Mishimoto Tri-Core Aluminum Radiator
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ACL Racing Rod/Main Bearings
Hasport Motor Mounts
AEM Fuel Rail
Deatschwerks Injectors 1000cc (22S-01-1000-4)
DeatschWerks DW300 Fuel Pump (351-05-0320)
B20/LS Crankshaft
OIL COOLER (undecided on what to use)

TRANSMISSION & DRIVETRAIN:
GSR Transmission (Synchrotech Carbon Synchros, full rebuild)
ITR Helical LSD
Bully Stage 4 Clutch
500hp+ (OBX?) CV Axles

TURBO:
Precision SC61 Turbo
Mishimoto M Line Intercooler
Synapse V-Band Ram Horn Header (syn-syn-man-04)
Synapse 3” Downpipe
Tial Q 50mm BOV (9-11lb spring)
Tial F38 38mm Wastegate

ELECTRONICS:
P72 ECU (Chipped)
AEM Tru-Boost
Alternator Killswitch
Omni 3 bar map sensor

OTHER:
Bumper Cutout
Slim battery for Tuck
Skunk2 Radiator hoses
Gates Racing Timing Belt
AEM Water Meth Kit
Tune on Hondata S300 or Neptune

 

Gonna try bumping this.