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Going from sleeves to the real deal... differences in cornering?

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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 07:37 AM
  #1  
phiberoptik's Avatar
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From: Cincinnati, OH, 45219
Default Going from sleeves to the real deal... differences in cornering?

Ok... Ill be the first to admit Ive been a bit of a riceboy when it came to my suspension. It was oneof the first things I did to my car cuz I wanted it slammed

Well after a couple years of rocking the Skunk2 coilovers and Tokico HP non adjustable shocks, Ive decided to get some legit full coilovers. Im buying some GAB Revo Stroke II coilovers (JDM yippee ) with 10k/7k rates. Frankly Ive never driven a car with this calibur of spring rate. Im so used to body roll and and the rollercoaster effect (not too too bad with my old setup), that Im really wondering what to expect with the new stiffer setup.

Can anyone give me an idea of the differences to expect when driving? I cant wait to have a better handling car!
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 09:15 AM
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From: savannah, ga, usa
Default Re: Going from sleeves to the real deal... differences in cornering? (phiberoptik)

i run tien ss and i run them on the hardest settings(long story) and the differenc is amazing. these are the only form of aftermarket suspension that i have had but friends of mine with the same set up you have are very impressed.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 09:26 AM
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Default Re: Going from sleeves to the real deal... differences in cornering? (tooky2)

Your friend has skunk2 and tockio and is impressed with yours compared to his or he has GABs also??

Ive heard from many that tein are too squishy, so if tein feels better than skunk2 then GABs are gonna feel 2x better!
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 10:14 AM
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Default Re: Going from sleeves to the real deal... differences in cornering? (phiberoptik)

High spring rates aren't necessary for good handling. There is nothing wrong with your coilovers, I would hold on to them and get some good quality struts. Since you were planning on full coil overs, I guess you could afford some high end Koni adjustables. Check to be sure if the skunk2s fit those struts, if not, then get some other high end struts. Set your ride height to 1.75 inch drop from stock, for you, this will probably mean raising the car up a bit. You can leave the natural camber as it should be around -1.7 front, -1.5 rear, but definately get the toe realigned. Increase the rear in relation to the front strut stiffness in order to quicken the turn in or do the opposite for more stability.

Next thing you're going to need are some heavy duty sway bars. Get like a 24mm (GSR, Type R) for the front and an aftermarket 22+mm bar for the rear, with subframe reinforcement brackets. At this point you should also get a front lower and rear lower tie bar, but not the flimsy crap you'll find on ebay.

You said you had riceboy suspension, so trade in those 17+inch rims for some 14 or 15 inch light weight rims, with low profile light weight tires, not Azenis. Set the front tire pressure to 38psi and the rear to 35psi.

If you take my suggestions, you will probably spend about the same as you planned on with full coilovers, but your car will handle much better than it would have and have ride comfort comparable to stock with no bounce.

This setup will blow your mind. So after you recover in about a year or two, look me up and I'll tell you where to go from there.
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