i built my b16a2 with 9.0:1 CP pistons, eagle H rods, ARP studs, ACL bearings and an ACT clutch and GSR cams.

the cams are what i think is the problem, first i wanna ask, is the cams an exact match to the b16 cams but with different cam lobes (lifts and duration)?

second, do i need to install aftermarket cam gears because of the adding lift and duration?

third, i never touched the fuel system and i cant get a good idle out of it. i adjusted the screw, cleaned the IACV, cleaned the TB, is there too much fuel going in the combustion chamber causing it to idle high?

i pulled out the #1 spark plug and saw that the plug was a color white, doesn't white mean running lean?

is it a good idea to get a wideband o2 and dyno the car?

i know its alot of questions but if anyone can help me out, i would greatly appreciate it alot.

 

The problem is your car is not tuned, I am assuming your running a stock ECU on a built motor, its not going to run like it did stock.

Cam gears are unnecessary, what size Injectors and ECU are you using? OEM Map Sensor?
If you are not tuning the car yourself you dont need a wideband, but its nice to know whats going on, your AFR is critical, if its off in boost you could damage your motor very quickly.

 

cams are not your problem...you will need an ecu that will run your motor...get a good base map besides the stock b16 ecu...running rich and lean will is determined by your ecu half the time...my gsr with itr internals can even run on a stock gsr ecu...it will run lean and lack power....so i advise getting a different ecu and get a good tune before you even think about breaking it in

 

im running a stock b16a2 ECU, with a apexi V-tech control.

what would a good ECU to use, i heard that the P30 is almost the same as the P28, but is a hell of alot smoother on the graph lines.

is this true?

its a stock OEM map sensor as well.

 

get rid of the apexi vtech controller...your car will run like shyt if you dont know how to work it...and also running a chip ecu, you dont need the vtech controller...car runs better without it...and never looked into a p30 but i prefer a p28...

 

i did a compression test after the break in and im reading 160's all the way across.

now with the head milled .0004 and 9.0:1 pistons with eagle h beam rods, with stock crank. give it to me straight, am i in trouble???

 

i wouldnt say your in trouble..your still consistant in every cylinder..as long as your within 20% from each cylinder then your good....your pistons are probably just wet from all the fuel its trying to eat....

 

get a chipped ecu and take the car to a tuner........

 

would having forged pistons have anything to do with have a hard time to start in the morning when its cold, then once warmed up the idle increases.

could too much fuel entering cause high idle, or could it be the iacv?

i crank on it for at least 10 secs, not start. give it a **** hair of fuel, starts but spunters out and dies, start again with no fuel, spunters and dies, again. and again. then finally the car idles low like 550-600 till i give it some fuel and i hold it there at 1800-2000 till its alittle warm enough to stay at a good constitant rpm for the oil pump to supply enough for the internals.

any suggestions or test to do to maybe trouble shoot? anyone have this same setup?

i have tried the dizzy, have to bring it toward the front for it to run right. it was sluggish at 16 degrees like what honda recommends in the manual.

adjusted the tps from the vfac and used a multi-meter to get a second reading.

right now if i leave it a .475 vts, the vfac throttle % says 0.9% throttle which ups the idle to 1750 which isnt good.

im using 93 octane to get a faster burn.

does the ecu have a chip already in it from the vfac?

 

no your vafc is controlling your ecu....so if you dont know how to tune it for your motor then basically you are screwing up your ecu..with a chip ecu you can program it to your motor specifications....your pistons have nothing to do with your car not starting...unless they have no compression...also if your car starts and dies means that your fuel system is getting cut off....best way to go is get a p28 and get it chipped for your motor...besides are you obd1 or obd2?

 

obd2B from the looks of the connections on the ECU from the hondata pics they give you.

today i disconnected the vfac and the car ran like it was about to die. on load, it was so sluggish. when i started it the engine would run at like 600 rpm, then something would kick in 5-8 seconds later causing the engine to rev to 1500.

what would cause the fuel to shut off like that when its cold. i idle screw in the TB is tightened all the way down to the right just to get a decent 1000 rpm idle when its warm. i cant get a lower one when driving.

where would a get a chipped ECU at? how to i choose one for my setup?

 

you fuel and air flow system is probably all messed up....you can find an ecu anywhere as long as people are selling it...and then get it chipped by anyone who knows what they are doing...a good tuner....