dee jsaan

So, I'm assuming the water pump on this engine is driven by the cam timing belt
as well ? If it were an engine where the water pump were driven by it's own belt I'd suggest loosening the belt and starting the motor if it would start and let the warming thaw the ice. I've done this with other cars & trucks that were
set up where that could be done.

Otherwise, there are magnetic clamp on electric engine heaters you could get
and plug in to thaw the engine. That ice in the water pump will make a belt squeal but on a cog belt that drives the cam, it's a different matter.

fcm

If all that went is the water pump, once engine is running again it will overheat quickly.

Once engine is running check coolant level and check the frost/freeze/expansion plug(s), should be on back of engine block, drivers side, if it has popped, replace it with a block heater. 94

bboysake

Well I'm not an expert on motors so if somebody could help him out about the water pump driven by the belt, it would help. But Its a B18B motor. I think it is, but it's just a guess. The thing is that it does start, but I am not sure if all the crunching of the ice inside the motor is bad for my motor.


Well here's the thing, when I start it I'm afraid that all the breaking of the ice will harm the motor cause it doesn't sound too good.

fcm

You need to thaw the engine out first, then crank it by hand before trying to start it.
What do you need to know about the water pump?
If you remove the timing belt cover you can see the water pump "pulley", pump can be removed from there. 94

SPOOLINmatt

i run strait water in my race car, i drained it before i put it up for the winter. Saves all the head ache lol. Antifreeze is the devil for a Daily D only

bboysake

Well he asked if its operated by a belt or not. But you pretty much answered my question. How would I exactly go about cranking it by hand?

Haha I should've done that before but it never gets this cold over here in Washington.

fcm

Breaker bar, [even long ratchet] and socket that fits crank pully nut.

Pull spark plugs, and crank engine by hand using socket and wrench on crank pully nut.94

blasterman87

what are you waiting for? put a heater in the garage to get it atleast 50 in there and it will thaw out in a few hours

bboysake

Well the thing is I dont have a heater strong enough to keep it that hot in there. Its a garage that's outside with no insulation. It's pretty much just a garage to cover the car and other stuff. I will try to find a heater to put under the car and keep you guys updated on it and see what it does.

Alright thanks I will try that if it doesn't thaw out

fcm

Not if it does not thaw out, after it has thawed out.

Cranking by hand will prevent any more damage as you will be able to "feel" a problem, if there is one, and stop cranking, cranking with starter motor can do a lot of damage because you can not feel the problem before engine has turned over a few times and/or started, by hand you have control, don't forget to pull the spark plugs when cranking by hand, you don't want compression. 94

reactiondc2

have any luck,should just about be thawed out by now....never thought id be happy to see rain around here lol

bboysake

So good news, reactiondc2 was right it is thawed out, and I successfully started the motor, i left it running for a few minutes and it seems to run fine but I didnt drive it.

So the question is now if it idols fine, does that mean everything should be fine? Or will I only know if i drive it?

fcm

Run it longer, get engine temp. up, [block a portion of the rad to speed that up] to the point the rad fan comes on, [just above 190 F] remove any rad blockage and keep a close eye on engine temp. if it continues to climb, shut engine down and replace water pump.

The only moving part of your engine that is in water is the water pumps veins, they would be frozen solidly in ice, when you started the engine, [even for a second and even when cranking] those vains WILL turn and either strip on the shaft or it will turn the "block" of ice around the vains into crushed ice, [just like a blender], it would be an ugly sound and would not last long, if your lucky, the only thing that happened is the water pump vains got straightened out and you will need to replace it, if you are really lucky only the ice got "bent" and the water pump still works normally, [normal engine temp. is maintained] go buy a lottery ticket.

Don't forget, replace water with proper coolant, keep an eye out for coolant leaks, at the frost plug(s), [may have been pushed out a little] and any other place on the engine, [a clean piece of cardboard under the engine when doing the engine temperature test will help.
I wouldn't go more then around the block the first time out or until you are sure there was no damage, go buy a lottery ticket. 94

bboysake

Alright bro, I appreciate your help. I will do that once I get the free time this weekend.
Is it hard to replace the veins for the water pump?

fcm

You replace the pump. 94

tnxx

Don't worry, the same thing just happened to me last week. My car kept leaking water from the clamp so I just filled it with water over the summer and the cold came so quick that I didn't even have a chance to fix the leak. Anyways, when I tried to start it, it didn't start. I didn't know why, and thought the battery was low. Then it started, with the clunk clunk clunk sound. That's the water pump's teeth came lose from the shaft. That's all. Not a big problem. Just change out the water pump. And everything is fine.