FITV bypassed. still causing idle problems?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,828
Likes: 0
From: Penguin in the fridge,, IA, USA
I've had the FITV under the throttle body bypassed since the day i started my motor. Tuned and ran fine for about 4k miles. then before I took the motor out (to sell the shell and get a new one) the motor would idle really high (like 3k at a red light even after warmed up)
this haunted me very much for a week or so, until i tried a new throttle body. the FITV was reused but the motor went back down to its normal RPM range after a newer ITR tb was installed. this all lasted for about a day, as the motor went back to idling like **** at 3k rpms.
up to this point, we've done a lot of diagnostic...the next thing we were gonna try was a new coolant temp sensor, until i recently found this link:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1003988
which states that the FITV has a screw type of deal inside it that causes 9/10 idle issues. i screwed this part in how the link instructed me to. i put the FITV back like it used to be.
i wont be putting the motor in / running the new car until spring time but i need to ask this:
NOW ONTO MY QUESTION!
Can a FITV cause idle problems like that even if it is bypassed and there is no coolant going through it....(btw: i've never had the nipples on the FITV capped off...it just hung there with no hoses going to it)
this haunted me very much for a week or so, until i tried a new throttle body. the FITV was reused but the motor went back down to its normal RPM range after a newer ITR tb was installed. this all lasted for about a day, as the motor went back to idling like **** at 3k rpms.
up to this point, we've done a lot of diagnostic...the next thing we were gonna try was a new coolant temp sensor, until i recently found this link:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1003988
which states that the FITV has a screw type of deal inside it that causes 9/10 idle issues. i screwed this part in how the link instructed me to. i put the FITV back like it used to be.
i wont be putting the motor in / running the new car until spring time but i need to ask this:
NOW ONTO MY QUESTION!
Can a FITV cause idle problems like that even if it is bypassed and there is no coolant going through it....(btw: i've never had the nipples on the FITV capped off...it just hung there with no hoses going to it)
If your FITV is mechanically disabled (plugged/capped off) there is no reason why it should effect your idle.
Start your motor and feel inside of the throttle body where the fitv port is on the bottom of the inside of the throttle body. If you have any kind of vacuum in the port it is not properly bypassed.
Start your motor and feel inside of the throttle body where the fitv port is on the bottom of the inside of the throttle body. If you have any kind of vacuum in the port it is not properly bypassed.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,828
Likes: 0
From: Penguin in the fridge,, IA, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your FITV is mechanically disabled (plugged/capped off) there is no reason why it should effect your idle.
Start your motor and feel inside of the throttle body where the fitv port is on the bottom of the inside of the throttle body. If you have any kind of vacuum in the port it is not properly bypassed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'll probably be making a plate for it and blocking it off altogether before i start the motor. the nipples that the hoses go onto were never capped off...i don't know if that's an incorrect way to do it but the car ran fine before the dyno, after the dyno until it started gettting colder outside
Start your motor and feel inside of the throttle body where the fitv port is on the bottom of the inside of the throttle body. If you have any kind of vacuum in the port it is not properly bypassed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'll probably be making a plate for it and blocking it off altogether before i start the motor. the nipples that the hoses go onto were never capped off...i don't know if that's an incorrect way to do it but the car ran fine before the dyno, after the dyno until it started gettting colder outside
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dinko »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i'll probably be making a plate for it and blocking it off altogether before i start the motor. the nipples that the hoses go onto were never capped off...i don't know if that's an incorrect way to do it but the car ran fine before the dyno, after the dyno until it started gettting colder outside </TD></TR></TABLE> I have the exact same problem.... bypassed the coolant lines on the FITV....i capped them off and it has the same high idle when its cold outside (colder it is higher the idle, as high as 3200) im goin to try to block it off in a tomorrow and see what happens.
i'll probably be making a plate for it and blocking it off altogether before i start the motor. the nipples that the hoses go onto were never capped off...i don't know if that's an incorrect way to do it but the car ran fine before the dyno, after the dyno until it started gettting colder outside </TD></TR></TABLE> I have the exact same problem.... bypassed the coolant lines on the FITV....i capped them off and it has the same high idle when its cold outside (colder it is higher the idle, as high as 3200) im goin to try to block it off in a tomorrow and see what happens.
i blocked off the FITV and it idles fine.....stays at 700 rpm no matter what temp it is outside
i think the ambient temp under the hood would melt the wax on hotter days but not when it was cold (i have a hondata intake manifold gasket so it really doesnt see much heat from there)
i think the ambient temp under the hood would melt the wax on hotter days but not when it was cold (i have a hondata intake manifold gasket so it really doesnt see much heat from there)
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,828
Likes: 0
From: Penguin in the fridge,, IA, USA
awesome to know man. thanks for the update. im sure someone will find this thread useful in the future
i found a nice (thicker) piece of flat metal in the corner of my garage that i will be cutting and buying a gasket for to eliminate the FITV like you did.
thanks again
i found a nice (thicker) piece of flat metal in the corner of my garage that i will be cutting and buying a gasket for to eliminate the FITV like you did.
thanks again
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dinko »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome to know man. thanks for the update. im sure someone will find this thread useful in the future
i found a nice (thicker) piece of flat metal in the corner of my garage that i will be cutting and buying a gasket for to eliminate the FITV like you did.
thanks again
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL...did you scalp a piece of red metal from Adi's car?
i found a nice (thicker) piece of flat metal in the corner of my garage that i will be cutting and buying a gasket for to eliminate the FITV like you did.
thanks again
</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL...did you scalp a piece of red metal from Adi's car?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,828
Likes: 0
From: Penguin in the fridge,, IA, USA
haha no but that's a damn good idea. i think it's one of those metal outlet covers that electricians use if they're going to be blocking off a whole outlet/switch. im just gonna cut it down to size and slap a gasket on it. hopefully my **** comes back down to 1000 rpm
cuz you know...i have baller cams and ****...
cuz you know...i have baller cams and ****...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




