ok so i just swapped a b18b1/gsr tranny from an eg hatch into my ek coupe (98). The engine ran mint in the hatch but im having some trouble with it now. The engine will start up roughly and then it will almost start to choke up but it will catch itself and get into a normal idle. then after about 15 seconds of idling nice it will just die. Any idea what would be causing this?

Also my ABS light stays solid and will flash when i connect the cel connector.

 

bump

 

Does it run ok at higher RPMs?

 

yup the engine will hold rpm's with the thottle steady and it doesnt break up, it only "misses' stumbles when idling.

 

i changed the plug wires and it didnt seem to make a difference, also i looked at the numbe 1 cylinder plug and it was all covered in carbon deposits which i believe indicates running rich?

 

Look for vacuum leaks, or hoses that are not connected, make sure your didn't miss any behind the intake manifold.

Problems at idle that go away as you rev it up are usually vacuum leaks or intake leaks.

Problems that continue at all RPMs are usually spark related

Problems at higher RPMs are usually spark/timing or fuel related.

 

k thanks, the only thing that i dont have hooked up is the EVAP solenoid on top of the intake manifold which isnt connected to the line from the EVAP canister. if i dont connect it the valve isnt open so i dont think that would cause the rough idle.

 

would a vacuum leak really cause the engine to shake roughly and die?

 

k so i connected up the only openvacuum line that i could find and it helped a bit but the engine still doesnt seem right. it will idle nice and smooth (not perfect) and then randomly it will start to shake and stumble. Any idea what this could be? spark plugs were replaced not too long ago but maybe they are the problem? Also im gonna change the fuel filter cause im not sure when the last time it was changed was.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scarlemthug &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k so i connected up the only openvacuum line that i could find and it helped a bit but the engine still doesnt seem right. it will idle nice and smooth (not perfect) and then randomly it will start to shake and stumble. Any idea what this could be? spark plugs were replaced not too long ago but maybe they are the problem? Also im gonna change the fuel filter cause im not sure when the last time it was changed was.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm getting this problem too... please let me know what happens

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghettogk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

would a vacuum leak really cause the engine to shake roughly and die?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure...

also look at the throttle body, and see if there is a bunch of carbon and crap built up on the plate. you may need to clean it and the injectors up.

can you rev it up a little bit, hold it at the rpm..

then does it stumble and **** and moan?

if not continue looking for leaks and hoses.

 

maybe ill run some seafoam through the system and see if that helps it out, ive run seafoam through the engine not too long ago but i havent run it through these injectors so that could be the problem.

im really not sure what it is, it will idle nice and then just start to stumble and die out. There's gotta be something that would cause this?

Would jumping a tooth on the timing belt do this or what else could be the cause?

Would advancing or retarding the ignition be a bad thing to mess around with?

 

k when the engine warms up i can hold it steady but when its not warm it will rev up high and then drop down and sputter a little and just doesnt sound right. Does this sound like a spark, ignition problem and if so what should i do to try and fix this?

 

ok so i tested the injectors resistance and 1&2 are 12.3ohm, 3 is 12.1ohm and 4 is 12.4ohm, would this cause any issues?

also i tested the dizzy and theres 12.xV with the car off on the black and yellow wire. I tested the primary wires and they have a resistance of 1.1ohm which isnt within spec, the secondary tested 17ohm which is within spec. would the primary not being within spec cause my problems?


Basically when i start the engine up cold it will stutter and stumble after it starts up perfectly. Then it will rev up and then it will drop rpms and almost die. it will continue to do this until the engine starts to warm up. once it warms up it will idle really nicely and then out of nowhere it will just die.

 

could it also be the the IACV or fast idle valve?

 

TTT

 

tested tps and its working fine, MAP is tested and working aswell. I switched from the civic IAT sensor to the manifold mounted teg IAT sensor and it seems to run a little better with it like that.

the IACV valve seems to be working properly aswell. Also i removed the intake and plugged the upper hole inside the TB and the engine would stall out, when i plugged the lower hole nothing would happen but there was slight suction.

 

I have what sounds like a similar problem on my 2000 Honda Insight.

I have engine roughness & vibration that started after the cooling and air conditioning system was replaced after an accident that damaged the front and underside of the car. I am not very confident in the quality of the work done and would like to give a different trusted mechanic a list of things to check.

Symptoms are:

-Increased roughness and engine vibration under all conditions (idle, driving, cold or warm engine)

-Seems to be worse or more noticeable at low RPM

-When shifting to a higher gear (manual trans), requires more gas than it used to in order not to stall (rough at low RPM)

-Very noticeable vibration through clutch pedal itself


Any ideas on what could cause this that could be related to a replacement of cooling system components? I'm hoping it is a result of something not replaced correctly, left loose, etc... and not phyiscal damage from the accident itself. I also don't believe the hybrid-electric system (IMA) is involved in this problem, as all other aspects of the car function normally.

I drove the car immediately after the accident and I don't remember it running rough until the repairs were made.

Thanks for any help. I've been living with this for over 6 months now, my insurance company has washed their hands of it, and it bothers me enough that I'll pay to fix it myself if I can get some tips on where to have a shop look.

-Mike