engine ok?
If the T-belt snapped it may not easy to visually see any damage if the valve contacted the piston..
If the cams had to be removed as part of the head removal, then all valves should be "shut"..
One of my test's for checking valves is to pour water down the intake and exhaust ports to see if the valves seals are tight... If you see water dripping from a valve or valves, then you will know its not making a good seal...
If the cams had to be removed as part of the head removal, then all valves should be "shut"..
One of my test's for checking valves is to pour water down the intake and exhaust ports to see if the valves seals are tight... If you see water dripping from a valve or valves, then you will know its not making a good seal...
I use carb cleaner so it doesn't rust the valves.
But, the choice of water or carb cleaner depends on whether or not you're gonna overhaul and clean everything.
My valve damage was also visually undetectable. A compression test showed a 160 point drop in compression in one cylinder and a liquid test showed a leak in one of the exhaust valves on that one cylinder.
If you do have a valve problem, I would play it on the safe side and get new valve guides, so that when you get the new valve seats cut, they'll be nice and true for the cutter guide.
But, the choice of water or carb cleaner depends on whether or not you're gonna overhaul and clean everything.
My valve damage was also visually undetectable. A compression test showed a 160 point drop in compression in one cylinder and a liquid test showed a leak in one of the exhaust valves on that one cylinder.
If you do have a valve problem, I would play it on the safe side and get new valve guides, so that when you get the new valve seats cut, they'll be nice and true for the cutter guide.
ok, thanks. luckily i checked this before i started. i'll try the carb cleaner and see what happens. also, i was wondering how i could clean off the black crap on the pistons. thanks
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