em1 idling tps issues!!
I own a em1 with a b16a2 and ever since i finished doing the engine swap for my vehicle i've been experiencing idling issues. The check engine light is on and it's reading P0122 which is a Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input. At a cold start up it's idling around 1500-1600 rpm. After the engine is warm and i'm at a complete stop at a conjunction somewhere the idle varies between 2000-2200 rpm. Now i have tried replacing the old sensor with a new one that i bought from ebay with matching part number and that didn't solved the issue either. So I went out and bought myself a volt meter and tried that on by sticking the two test probe leads to the negative battery terminal, and the other leads to the red wire on the connector with multi meter set to 20v.
At the fully closed position on throttle body i'm reading 0.0 volts, and at WOT i'm reading 3.20 volts. I know that those two readings is way off. The correct readings for a fully closed position is at between .45 - .50 volts and for WOT is at 4.50. So what is exactly is the problem here? I wanna try to self-diagnosed it first before i take it to a professional and let them mess with it.
At the fully closed position on throttle body i'm reading 0.0 volts, and at WOT i'm reading 3.20 volts. I know that those two readings is way off. The correct readings for a fully closed position is at between .45 - .50 volts and for WOT is at 4.50. So what is exactly is the problem here? I wanna try to self-diagnosed it first before i take it to a professional and let them mess with it.
A TPS need to be calibrated. If you can get the readings from it, calibrate it.
Also, typically a reading to either extreme (0v or 5v) is a fault. So the fact that it's aftermarket and giving you a reading of 0v closed could mean it's bad.
-Amp
Also, typically a reading to either extreme (0v or 5v) is a fault. So the fact that it's aftermarket and giving you a reading of 0v closed could mean it's bad.
-Amp
I own a em1 with a b16a2 and ever since i finished doing the engine swap for my vehicle i've been experiencing idling issues. The check engine light is on and it's reading P0122 which is a Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input. At a cold start up it's idling around 1500-1600 rpm. After the engine is warm and i'm at a complete stop at a conjunction somewhere the idle varies between 2000-2200 rpm. Now i have tried replacing the old sensor with a new one that i bought from ebay with matching part number and that didn't solved the issue either. So I went out and bought myself a volt meter and tried that on by sticking the two test probe leads to the negative battery terminal, and the other leads to the red wire on the connector with multi meter set to 20v.
At the fully closed position on throttle body i'm reading 0.0 volts, and at WOT i'm reading 3.20 volts. I know that those two readings is way off. The correct readings for a fully closed position is at between .45 - .50 volts and for WOT is at 4.50. So what is exactly is the problem here? I wanna try to self-diagnosed it first before i take it to a professional and let them mess with it.
At the fully closed position on throttle body i'm reading 0.0 volts, and at WOT i'm reading 3.20 volts. I know that those two readings is way off. The correct readings for a fully closed position is at between .45 - .50 volts and for WOT is at 4.50. So what is exactly is the problem here? I wanna try to self-diagnosed it first before i take it to a professional and let them mess with it.
Nope, i've tried calibrating it already. It dosen't matter how much i try to adjust it, but the number remained the same at 0.0 volts. This is like my 2nd aftermarket sensor i've gone through so far. They all couldn't be all defective now could it? I need to have this thing fixed ASAP cuz its really affecting my MPG by a good bit.
Last edited by Type 56; Sep 23, 2016 at 11:55 PM.
Problem solved!! So this afternoon i decided to take it to a certified mechanic and let him check out the issue. Turns out my multi-meter was reading everything wrong and all the tps needed was a physical adjustment through a more advance comp tools. It only cost me a total of $35 to get the whole thing fix! And i was in and out of there in a matter of minutes
Problem solved!! So this afternoon i decided to take it to a certified mechanic and let him check out the issue. Turns out my multi-meter was reading everything wrong and all the tps needed was a physical adjustment through a more advance comp tools. It only cost me a total of $35 to get the whole thing fix! And i was in and out of there in a matter of minutes 


-Amp
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