Electronical Issues? PLEASE HELP!
ok one problem i've noticed is when i hit the sunroof button my temp gauge bounces slightly.. could someone help me get to the root of the problem? I have no helms etc..
car currently will probably overheat.. i'm hoping it's o2 sensor related.. will be having the changed out this tues.
any help would be greatly appreciated..
Thank you..
car currently will probably overheat.. i'm hoping it's o2 sensor related.. will be having the changed out this tues.
any help would be greatly appreciated..
Thank you..
because it does... i have to crank the heat to keep it from overheating and it is still iffy.. it only happens after driving it for a lil while and then letting the car idle..
which is why i'm hoping since the o2 sensor isn't working at all that it will fix the prob since i heard that running rich or lean makes the car run hotter..
which is why i'm hoping since the o2 sensor isn't working at all that it will fix the prob since i heard that running rich or lean makes the car run hotter..
I don't think a faulty O2 sensor could cause an overheating, if so my car would have long melted. If you are worried though about overheating on a daily basis -
1) Check your compression, blown head gaskets tend to raise temperatures exponentially.
2) If everything comes out right in the compression numbers, bleed your coolant system. When you do that, make sure you have the heat on high when you do that to get air out of the heater core.
1) Check your compression, blown head gaskets tend to raise temperatures exponentially.
2) If everything comes out right in the compression numbers, bleed your coolant system. When you do that, make sure you have the heat on high when you do that to get air out of the heater core.
ahh i didn't run my heat on high last time i tried to take the bubbles out of my coolant system.. all i did was removed the cap and let the car run till the coolant nearly spilled out.. was that the right way of doing it? i hope it's not a blown headgasket.. =/
When you have the heat on high, you have all the coolant channels open so any air that is in there is pushed out through the passages and eventually (as the purpose of bleeding) is evacuated from the system leaving minimal air which traps heat and maximum cooling fluid. When not open, well, its a toss-up if all the air is out.
Trending Topics
the fan does come on .. but it doesn't stay on very long.. i dunno if that's normal or what.. radiator is in decent shape.. i was thinking of replacing it down the road(for some reason the damn thing drips coolant REAL slowly from the thing you drain the coolant from..
to bleed the coolant system you have to open the breather next to the front of the head. Crack it open with the car running and wait for all the bubbles to come out then retighten it back. It took me like 3 days of doing this off and on while driving it to get all the little bubbles out. I know that is a long time but I just didnt have alot of time to sit and wait. But now the coolant is flowing good.
DEF
DEF
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 86si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replace the rad. it could be restricted and not flowing enough coolant
</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn just jump to conclusions, there are 20 other things that could be the root of this problem instead of just replacing the radiator
first, bleed the coolant, second, WATCH the fan. make sure it is comming on at the correct time and temprature, next do **** like flush the system and thermostat. could be sticking.
and your o2 sensor has NOTHING to do with this problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>damn just jump to conclusions, there are 20 other things that could be the root of this problem instead of just replacing the radiator
first, bleed the coolant, second, WATCH the fan. make sure it is comming on at the correct time and temprature, next do **** like flush the system and thermostat. could be sticking.
and your o2 sensor has NOTHING to do with this problem.
well yesterday the damn thing overheated to the point that i needed to stop the car and pull over.. i swear it's some sort of electrical problem tho.. it's almost as if something is grounding or something is loose and causing the car to overheat.. i notice it only overheats when i notice the temp gauge is bouncing slightly..
main reason i thought the o2 sensor could have something to do with it is because i thought if the car runs rich it will run hotter?
the damn thing even overheats when the heater is on full blast..
main reason i thought the o2 sensor could have something to do with it is because i thought if the car runs rich it will run hotter?
the damn thing even overheats when the heater is on full blast..
oh ok.. it's just boggling.. it overheats mainly when i'm on the gas constantly.. ie. the highway.. then if i take it outta gear and let it cruise it slowly gets hotter.. then when i get on the gas again it gets a lil cooler..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lean is hotter, not rich.
but the o2 has absolutley nothing to do with this. period. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Close, but no cigar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by www.sdsefi.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Many people think that the leaner you go, the higher the EGT gets. This is also incorrect. Peak EGT occurs at stoichiometry- about 15 to 1 for our purposes. If you go richer than 15 to 1, EGT will drop and if you go leaner than 15 to 1 EGT will ALSO drop. It is VERY important to know which side of peak EGT you are on before making adjustments.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSlowR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok.. it's just boggling.. it overheats mainly when i'm on the gas constantly.. ie. the highway.. then if i take it outta gear and let it cruise it slowly gets hotter.. then when i get on the gas again it gets a lil cooler..</TD></TR></TABLE>
It sounds like the fan, if you let off the gas the temperature begins to rise as there is not enough air flowing over the radiator, but when you hit the gas and then proceed to push your car through the air once again it cools. That also would explain the high temperatures not moving.
but the o2 has absolutley nothing to do with this. period. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Close, but no cigar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by www.sdsefi.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Many people think that the leaner you go, the higher the EGT gets. This is also incorrect. Peak EGT occurs at stoichiometry- about 15 to 1 for our purposes. If you go richer than 15 to 1, EGT will drop and if you go leaner than 15 to 1 EGT will ALSO drop. It is VERY important to know which side of peak EGT you are on before making adjustments.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSlowR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok.. it's just boggling.. it overheats mainly when i'm on the gas constantly.. ie. the highway.. then if i take it outta gear and let it cruise it slowly gets hotter.. then when i get on the gas again it gets a lil cooler..</TD></TR></TABLE>
It sounds like the fan, if you let off the gas the temperature begins to rise as there is not enough air flowing over the radiator, but when you hit the gas and then proceed to push your car through the air once again it cools. That also would explain the high temperatures not moving.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Close, but no cigar.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
not EGT professor, engine cylinder temps. if you are rich the burn isnt completed before its pushed out the exhaust valves, therefore the EGT is HOTTER but the cylinder temps are LOWER.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
not EGT professor, engine cylinder temps. if you are rich the burn isnt completed before its pushed out the exhaust valves, therefore the EGT is HOTTER but the cylinder temps are LOWER.
just wanted to conclude this thread.. I found the problem and it turned out to be the ground wire to the tranny.. such a stupid problem that I overlooked.. still got probs though 'code 1(oxygen content)' but that's another thread..
Thanks for all the input guys!
Thanks for all the input guys!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mohsin
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
22
Sep 18, 2018 04:31 PM



