so i wired my car for mpfi, and vtec, the car runs and drives, but it wont rev over 3. which means my ecu is in safe mode, i have code 4,15,22 which is crank position sensor, icm, vtec oil pressure switch i think. i got a brand new distributer, plugs, wires, and i also tried a pw0 and a ls ecu and both times it only reved to 3.

some ppl were telling me my wiring is bad, but i have the orange wire from c1 in b10, and the white wire from c2 to b12, and off the top of my i head i think c1 is blue/green, and c2 is blue yellow.

im not really sure what else it could be, has anybody ran into this before, i need so serious help

thanks

 

Not revving past 3k doesn't necessarily mean you are in safe mode, even if you are. Engines don't rev past a certain point when there's a major restriction in either the air or fuel systems or when there's a problem with timing control (CKP sensor). With what you have replaced, it does indeed sound like a wiring issue, specificly the distributor wires. Which ECU are you using, what year B16 is it and where did you get it from?

 

its obd0, i have a pr3, and my buddy sold it to me, and when he had it, it reved up, but when i got it to my house it wouldnt rev over 3, so im pretty sure its not wiring, how can i fix this, and i do have a code for ckp

 

If it's not a problem with the wiring and the valve timing is correct then you need a new distributor. Check the timing belt and then the CKP signal at the ECU to make sure it's reaching the ECU. Also disconnect the dizzy connector and test the resisitance of the CKP sensor. It should be between 350 and 700 ohms.

 

i have a brand new dizzy on it, how do i check it at the ecu, the CKP is b10,b12

 

Yeah I saw in your original post that you replaced the distributor but wiring, timing and bad dizzy are about the only possible causes of a CKP code. A problem with the ECU would also be a rare cause. If you haven't already, pull the battery negative to reset the ECU and see if the code comes back. To check the wires between the ECU and CKP, you just run the same resistance test but at the wires leading into the ECU. If you have the proper resistance at the distributor but infinite resistance at the ECU, then one of the wires you tested is broken.

 

i checked the timing, and its set right.

 

bump i still need advice, any ideas, could this be the tps?

 

The revving to 3k could possibly be caused by the TPS but not the codes you have, which makes the TPS an unlikely cause. You can check the signal from the TPS with the engine off and the key in the ON position. Set a meter to 12 or 20 volts, wedge the black probe in the battery negative post and pierce the sheath of the TPS signal wire with the red probe. Piercing the wrong wire won't hurt anything. The TPS should be about .5v at closed throttle and about 4.5v when you open the throttle all the way by hand. Do you have the JDM 89-91 B16a offered in JDM EF's or some other B16?

 

Here, use this to check the wires. Note the CKP wires on pins C01 and C02.


Pr3 ECU Pinouts-

A01 BRN INJ1 fuel injector control # 1
A02 BLK PG1 Ground
A03 RED INJ2 fuel injector control # 2
A04 BLK PG2 Ground
A05 LT BLU INJ3 fuel injector control # 3
A06 GRN purge cut-off solinoid valve
A07 YEL INJ4 fuel injector control # 4
A08 VTS VTEC solenoid
A09
A10 Pressure Regulator Cutoff Soleno
A11 BLU/YEL IACV from electronic air control valv
A12 GRN/BLK FLR1 fuel pump control
A13 YEL/BLK IGP1 power Input
A14 GRN/BLK FLR2 fuel pump control
A15 YEL/BLK IGP2 power Input
A16 BRN/BLK ground
A17
A18 BLK/RED ground
B01 WHT/GRN VBP Battery Backup
B02
B03 YEL ACC a/c compressor clutch relay cont
B04 FANC
B05 WHT/YEL VTM VTEC pressure switch
B06 GRN/ORN MIL check engine warning light
B07
B08 YEL/GRN ACS a/c on input
B09
B10 ORN CYP P crank sensor (1)
B11 Fuse Box
B12 WHT ? CYP M crank sensor (2)
B13 BLU/WHT starting input
B14 BLU ALT alternator output signal
B15 WHT ? ignition output signal
B16 YEL/RED VSS VSS
B17 WHT ? ignition output signal
B18
B19 KS Knock sensor
B20 BRN SCS ignition timing adjusting connec
****C01 BLU/GRN CKP P CYL sensor (1) ****
****C02 BLU/YEL CKP M CYL sensor (2) ****
C03 ORN/BLU TDC P TDC sensor (1)
C04 WHT/BLU TDC M TDC sensor (2)
C05 RED/YEL IAT intake air temperature sensor
C06 RED/WHT ? ECT coolant temperature sensor
C07 RED/BLU TPS throttle angle sensor
C08 O2S Dual O2 Sensor (JDM)
C09 RED/WHT ? PA atomosphere pressure sensor inpu
C10 GRN/WHT ? BKSW brake light switch
C11 GRN/WHT ? MIL ground
C12 GRN/WHT ? SG2 TPS GND
C13 YEL/WHT VCC1 TPS 5V
C14 SG1 MAP GND
C15 YEL/RED VCC2 MAP 5V
C16 WHT O2S oxygen sensor

 

ill check this then get back to you, the only thing that is throwing me off is the motor did this before i swapped it in my car, but ill still check the wires, because it cant hut

 

Tested the resistance between the 2 and there was nothing. I then ran my own wires still nothing. And this is a brand new distributer.any advice

 

i rewired my distributer straight to my ecu and now my car isnt getting spark.does anyone know what it could be

 

Any ideas

 

Sorry, new posts in older threads don't always show up on recent topics. Without being able to check all the wiring myself, I'm inclined to suggest you buy a good wiring harness made for your app, install it, double check the wire colors for all the connections and never worry about the wiring again.

 

Tested the CKP sensor? It might be that the ICM was connected to the CKP sensor and fried it, causing codes for both. When you replaced the distributor, you could have reconnected it the same way and fried it again. If you still have the receipt, you should be able to exchange it.

 

code 4 crank angle sensor .. Will stop you from reving over 3500 rpm.

you want to go over your (google it ) dx to si conversion.

Take the TIME. and trace each of the 7 wires on the distributor.
Thats the only issue you have.

c1 and c2.. get moved into b10 and b12... !... new wires get installed in c1 and c2. **

I think that is your start point.