simple rule of thumb if the add uses combinations of the words JDM boost performance super amazing racer WOW!! etc etc etc, run don't walk away from it, and all for just 19.95

 

Where's the like button?

 

this is good info ^


and sorry grumblemarc if i got on your nerves. you have to expect to see someone with opposing thoughts on something.

i dont reccomend a ebay turbo if you have the $$$ to do so. but this guy seems to be on a budget to even consider ebay off brand stuff. so i threw my opnion for what i thought would be best bang for your buck. heres a extreme example

$500+ cat back name brand adds 0whp-10whp.

$400+ for a name brand header adds 0-10whp

or

$500 on a ebay turboz kit adds 10whp-100 200+whp

$20-$50 for a fmu not the best but for stock injectors or hp. but it works so on the tightest bidget it can work. i wouldnt reccomend this but it can be done.

you can remove the bottoms of the injectors and have high flowing injectors for free. saturated

$80 walbaro fuel pump

tune it old school add fuel or take it away, mess with ignition timing, change plugs and gaps till you get a clean burn.

could even add water/meth for when it hits boost so it raises octane when in boost and not when idling. you dont need a fmic with w/m

so dollar to dollar expensive brand new bolts ons will not touch a cheap ebay offbrand turbo kit.

i would only reccomend mods for professonals but you have to learn at some point in your life. so dont do it on a dd. get a job and build up a project n a budget. try to find a junkyard used turbo from a deisel truck or smaller car turbo depends on you power goals over a ebay off brand one

 

I hear ya. From now on I'm not going to recommend a proper course of action based on years of experience and research because if someone really wanted to know the information is already out there. I think from now on if some asks about any knock-off parts/kits off of Ebay I'm going to strongly recommend that just go ahead and get them. I think we all should. Because when it comes down to it, they are just going to do it anyway regardless of what anyone says.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vkr4heRUtZI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzZ2F...feature=relmfu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9k2m...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hz8ls...feature=relmfu


this guy has had sohc ebay and b series ebay.


and i agree with you marc. people will always consider ebay parts becaause of the price. they think its just as good as quality but its far from it

 

Shiit im not rrady for a turbo yet I just decided to do a d16y8 yesterday lol and found out today ill need a trans today cause my hx trans is crap lol, so ive googled honda parts and what not but what sights would u recommend? Im not tryin to start an argument but whats would be the power difference between an greddy exhaust and an ebay one or does that still come down to a longevity issuse cause I can get like 5ebay systems for the price of the greedy but greddy is more respected lol. ahh the choices.. X)

 

And then when they blow their engine, they will come back and post about it. Maybe when there are 5 posts about "ebay turbo kit blew my untuned motor" on the first page, people will listen, do some research, and come to the same conclusion as the rest of us who have actually done the work.

It's probably wishful thinking, though.

Bottom line: if you are turboing a car you drive frequently, or your only car/DD (as is my case), use quality parts. I even decided on an OEM Volvo turbo because it's watercooled. If the car you plan on turboing is a toy, and not a tool, then use knockoff parts at your own risk.

 

 

Power? On a D-series engine? None.

 

^^Neat Pic

 

that looks like my 100 dollar weedeater mower, the one where the welds failed and dropped the blade guard on the blade while it was running, my now 100 dollar piece of scrap metal

 

The y8 is better then the y5, main reason im swapping is cause the y5 is messed up, im not trying to make somethin fast yet im lookin for something with a lil more pep to get me by till I can afford a better motor.

 

Then you're on the right track because the Y8 isn't fast either.

 

Lol, what would u recommend on a budget? Like a grand or less budget lol

 

do something to make it handle better . u can get sway bars or coil overs for $1000 or get better brakes and save for the performance

 

get quality brand. get wut u pay for and you will b happier in the end that you spent the extra money.

 

Nothing. This is a hobby where nothing quality is cheap the only good deal that is proven that i have come across while reading these forums is the vitara/custom length rods setup.

If you are doing this to impress your "bros" or lady friends go ahead buy ebay crap, buy cheap rims, go get that walmart limo tint and slap it on there just don't be mad when it all goes to **** and your friends sit there and laugh at you.

Not hating just telling you the cold hard truth about the car modifying game.

 

i would get nice tires and suspension if i had to build something i could have fun in on a budget. people put up good times with stock motor hondas in auto x and road racing.


tires will effect the handling and braking more than suspension will or upgraded brakes. the part that contacts the road and people always overlook it. suspension does play a huge role in a nice handling car but tires are the better bang for your buck $$$$ to performance wise. get some road racing slicks for stock rims and join the lowest class you can.


or if you like going stright line fast make your own turbo kit and tune it yourself

 

NO EBAY PERFORMANCE. Do it right or dont do it at all

 

I just bought an OEM keyless entry kit for my 07 Fit on eBay, but it was from a legit dealer. Just gotta look for the deals man.

 

Serious question. If you're not looking for big hp numbers and you're not a dedicated racer. Is an ebay kit with proper supporting mods ok if you're not looking to make big power? Lets say 250-325 hp range?

I also want to add an opinion about high dollar parts as well. I had a full N/A motor build with the best parts money could buy and it was built by a supposedly reputable shop. That engine let go after only 1200 miles. I barely de-greened the engine and the whole thing was shot. That was just about $10,000 flushed away. So there are two sides to everything. No matter what parts you use, whether they're cheap or top of the line, you're still modding your car over and above OEM. OEM parts are engineered to work with their OEM components. Modding will ultimately lead to component failure.

 

That story is questionable but whatever. You spent $10,000 on a motor and had a "supposedly reputable shop" assemble it? That's your fault bro. Don't trust any shop to do quality work unless you have VERY good reason to.

And ebay parts are garbage quality regardless of power goals. They will fail at any hp, at any rpm and at any speed. Cheap parts don't care how much power you make, they'll f*ck **** up no matter what.

 

Questionable story? Ok. I didn't elaborate because that wasn't really the point of the story. The point was cheap or expensive parts don't really matter. Your build will let go sooner or later.

I had a Hytech Header, before the design was sold to China and replicated. Endyne rollerwave pisons, eagle rods, all new bearings, Endyne race head and welded combustion chambers, endyne cams later switched to Toda C's, RC Injectors, walbro fuel pump, AIR Carbon Fiber Intake Manifold, fuel rail, FPR, the list goes on and on. Thats not even taking into consideration the machining of the block. Then tuning. So yes $10 g's. And yes as you can read above all high end parts, and yes it let go after 1200 miles. If you're from the midwest and Familiar with Super Dave formerly from Whip Factory, he and Justin can confirm that the story is 100% legit and real. Not that I need to explain myself or anything.

 

If its all the same grade of metal then its the same regardless of the name. How can quality piping and metal be different than ebay metal and piping? It can't unless the grade of metals is different. I can understand the pictures like the turbo above coming apart because thats just garbage, but there has to be some use for the items on ebay. I know the cheap couplers fail that come with the turbo kits, but they won't fail if you can weld. If the turbo goes out then replace the seals or spring for a little better one. So are the ebay kits really junk? Or is it because of lack of aptitude of those installing the cheap ones?

 

If you really spent 10 grand but then have to come back and ask questions like these you can see how someone might have to turn around and have to dismiss everything you might have to say.

Tell you what, get the Ebay stuff. Get the downright cheapest kit/parts you can buy. Come back and tell us how you're doing after 6 months or so.