I agree, I'd definitly save up for new pistons. But i think that would kill my gas milage.

 

I have gotten as good as 32-33 mpg, but average 29-30. I have 10.5 though, not really high.

 

What about B20As what can they do?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jeff C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have gotten as good as 32-33 mpg, but average 29-30. I have 10.5 though, not really high.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats not bad....
i run 10:1 compression, i get as high as 40mpg
with the A/C on and pedel to the metal, i get as low as 25mpg.
Its all about the stock factory ecu.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> what about the b20a </TD></TR></TABLE>
the b20a came on the old school preludes... they are a waste of space, dont mess with them

 

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/conversion/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wm5holla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.theoldone.com/articles/conversion/</TD></TR></TABLE>

intresting

I have some pictures of P3F pistons in an older style B20B JDM block, I will be posting those up shortly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jeff C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats why when I bought my motor, I did not care what the compression was cause I anticipated putting higher compression pistons in it anyways. That would be my advice to somebody wanting a b20 even if they were planning on staying nonvtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is easy to say that you are going to get better pistons later. But this is one of those things that often doesn't get done because it costs as much as the motor itself (don't forget machine work, gaskets, rings, and other little stuff). My advice - ALWAYS buy the better motor. In this case, it is WELL worth it. For the price difference between a 9.6:1 motor and 8.8:1 motor, you could not improve a low compression motor to be on par with a high compression motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree, I'd definitly save up for new pistons. But i think that would kill my gas milage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, higher compression IMPROVES fuel economy. The only downfall is that it generally requires the purchase of more expensive, higer octane fuel. For a 9.6:1 compression motor with no knock sensor, it is a good idea to buy at least midgrade fuel (89 octane).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok mines a 97 USDM b20b off of a auto tranny equiped crv

block is stamped b20b4
head is stamped p75
block has p3f stamped on it in several areas
cams say p75
block had a 3 layer head gasket
intake manifold was the tall "giraffe" style with the smaller TB
engine is for sure 8.8 cr

at the time i dynoed i was running a b&m fuel pressure reg and a skunk2 intake manifold with my LS TB, fuel rail, injectors, and no other engine mods

from seeing dynos off of Hybrid and here i was expecting 130 or so hp and 120 tq

however my engine was rated at 126 at the fw and i dynoed at 112hp and 106 tq

Hardly what i was expecting... that 8.8 cr REALLY blows... to anyone that isnt sure as to what engine you have i would make damn sure cause i would be really pissed if i though i had the higher cr and didnt after all...

the funny thing is that the car still feels stronger than the b18b i had in there before hehe it just dies up top... i make peak TQ by 3000 rpm and its flat all the way up to 5700. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It is entirely possible that the dyno you went to gives low figures. You might want to try another one. Especially since you say your motor runs stronger than your original B18 (A typical B18 dynos higher than 112HP, 106ft-lb torque).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually, higher compression IMPROVES fuel economy. The only downfall is that it generally requires the purchase of more expensive, higer octane fuel. For a 9.6:1 compression motor with no knock sensor, it is a good idea to buy at least midgrade fuel (89 octane).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just curious as to why that is.

 

hmm, my jdm b20b is as listed
p3G
tall giraffe intake manifold
cams didnt look
its a 97 motor

 

See if its got PHK pistions.

Blaze

 

Great information!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just curious as to why that is.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you look at a pressure-volume chart, the reasons for this become obvious. Higher compresion increases the pressure at which combustion occurs. And the higher the pressure when combustion commences, the greater the pressure increase will be that results from the temperature increase. This means that the pressure at the beginning of the expansion process will be higher than it would be with a lower compression ratio to a greater degree than the pressure difference before combustion. Although increasing the pressure of a gas typically does not increase its enegry (this is dependent on temperature), it increases its exergy (energy available to do work). A higher compression ratio means a higher expansion ratio. This allows more of the thermal energy in the gas to be utilized.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you look at a pressure-volume chart, the reasons for this become obvious. Higher compresion increases the pressure at which combustion occurs. And the higher the pressure when combustion commences, the greater the pressure increase will be that results from the temperature increase. This means that the pressure at the beginning of the expansion process will be higher than it would be with a lower compression ratio to a greater degree than the pressure difference before combustion. Although increasing the pressure of a gas typically does not increase its enegry (this is dependent on temperature), it increases its exergy (energy available to do work). A higher compression ratio means a higher expansion ratio. This allows more of the thermal energy in the gas to be utilized.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hrm, dont u think there is a point where more power is gained, but at the cost of more fuel, giving the bonus of added power, but with the cost of more fuel, thus leading to a more powerful (more hp per liter) but less efficient (as it requires more fuel) for as we all know, as compression ratio goes up, you need to add more fuel to that equation.

Thats just my thoughts, Im sure there is alot more to it.

 

We've seen three B20 engines with heads that have quench and chambers at 84mm. and 33.0mm intake valves stock from Honda.....
There are a lot of Honda engine models sold around the world that aren't anything like we see in any of the JDM or USDM models.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Woofer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We've seen three B20 engines with heads that have quench and chambers at 84mm. and 33.0mm intake valves stock from Honda.....
There are a lot of Honda engine models sold around the world that aren't anything like we see in any of the JDM or USDM models.</TD></TR></TABLE>

crazy ****

thats why im trying to figure out all the diff models

there is a guy on this board w/ a 2000 CRV motor from auzzy land. a b20b8 or something
crazy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Woofer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We've seen three B20 engines with heads that have quench and chambers at 84mm. and 33.0mm intake valves stock from Honda.....
There are a lot of Honda engine models sold around the world that aren't anything like we see in any of the JDM or USDM models.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought you told me you had never seen that before! You never got back to me about that email anyway...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
apprently, there is also the honda orthia that runs the b20b motor, which would use the P75 intake manafold since its a wagon.
Hopefully more people can help me out... what the hell is the true story behind the JDM b20b's!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, I'm waaaaaay late here but I figure I'd contribute some of my old pictures. Keep in mind, this is back in late 1998 / early 1999 way before the "B20 fad" even started, and nobody really knew about them..... (sorry for all of the pictures)


Honda Orthia - where my JDM B20B motor came from





Turbo'd with a DRAG 3 ITR kit, back in 1999.... one of the first that I've ever seen back then. Ran a best time of 11.6 @ 119 mph on 22x7x13 slicks and 11 lbs of boost



Took the B20 head off cause I was originally going to do a B20-VTEC setup -- would've been one of the 1st that I've personally seen at that time


The Orthia header.... looked very similar to a CTR header



I have some more pictures elsewhere but I figure I can contribute with those for now. I've actually seen a real Orthia wagon before.... looks like a cross between a 98 Accord and a 96 Civic.... weird looking but the engine bay looks like a CRV, but with the LS style manifold. Sorry for all of the pictures, but I figure I'd contribute to the B20 thread with those old skool pictures I had on different servers.

 

hrm, then i definitly didnt get an orthia motor

the b20 mystery never ends...

newman, what pistons where in that block? PHK?

 

We just happened to look through the pile of B20 heads we've accumulated and there were three of the large chamber/valve config. They were all sold for aluminum scrap anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
newman, what pistons where in that block? PHK?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't remember but it looks like they say <FONT SIZE="3">P3F</FONT> or something like that, but did not say PHK. Haven't had any more Orthia motors come through our shop lately.... all have been JDM B20B CRV motors.

 

damn the b20 mystery.

putting the picture in photoshop and zooming in a bit, those are def P3F pistons, they are really strange how they stamped the P3F, I dont see any other honda engines do it in a half circle.


Not alot of 99+ b20b motors come over seas. Took me months to get mine.

 

good info, MUST BUY B20 !!!!!!

 

Hi i got my b20b from noyanusa.com for 950 after reading all these post on here im wondering what compression motor i have, heres my list
96 b20b
head-p75-8
block stamped-p3f
75 cams
pr3 cam gears
no knock sensor
has a 2 layer head gasket
and the tall manifold

what do u guys think could it b the 9.2 cr one? or a 8.8?