Death by water - what to do now?
About a month ago, I drove through the equivalent of a lake. The engine froze & wouldn't turn over. I just today pulled the head today to reveal the ugliness that you see before you. This is my first endeavor of this nature & I'm not sure where to start. What am I going to have to do? I'm guessing that I can just hone the cylinders to smooth them out again, get new rings & that may be all. It looks to me like the pistons are okay. Am I correct or will I need to bore the cylinders necessitating new pistons also? Is there likely bearing and/or rod damage? I suppose that the answers to my questions may be circumstancial, but any experienced input would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?i...53137597&idx=1
[Modified by GSRlove, 11:31 PM 7/21/2002]
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?i...53137597&idx=1
[Modified by GSRlove, 11:31 PM 7/21/2002]
you have to upload it to the internet
http://www.imagestation.com
http://www.imagestation.com
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?i...53137597&idx=1
That's better - thanks. How can I get the image into the message?
That's better - thanks. How can I get the image into the message?
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Check the bore diameter for size and out-of-roundness using a cylinder bore dial gauge, or have the machine shop do it.
Chances are, the machine shop will hone it first just to get a clean surface and then remeasure to check for the necessity of overboring. The biggest concern is that the bores are scratched too deeply to be fixed with a simple bore hone.
I'd also worry about the wrist pins, rod bearings, mainshaft bearings, the crank and rod journals. Measure everything for out-of-spec tolerances, and replace what you need. Lot of work, but you can never be too safe when something like this happens. Service Manual will tell you exactly how to do all this stuff, and the tools/gauges you need.
Regardless, follow standard rebuild replacement procedure and replace the following:
.mainshaft bearings
.rod bearings
.piston rings
.seals & gaskets
.valve seals
Chances are, the machine shop will hone it first just to get a clean surface and then remeasure to check for the necessity of overboring. The biggest concern is that the bores are scratched too deeply to be fixed with a simple bore hone.
I'd also worry about the wrist pins, rod bearings, mainshaft bearings, the crank and rod journals. Measure everything for out-of-spec tolerances, and replace what you need. Lot of work, but you can never be too safe when something like this happens. Service Manual will tell you exactly how to do all this stuff, and the tools/gauges you need.
Regardless, follow standard rebuild replacement procedure and replace the following:
.mainshaft bearings
.rod bearings
.piston rings
.seals & gaskets
.valve seals
You broke the rod in #1 for sure. The other components may be ok, but you will need to check them to be sure. Usually only one cylinder will sustain damage from a hydrolock, the one in the compression stroke.
You're right. Didn't pick up on it before. Cylinders 1 and 4 should both be at TDC. #1 is at MDC.
[Modified by IN VTEC, 8:41 AM 7/22/2002]
[Modified by IN VTEC, 8:41 AM 7/22/2002]
Judging by the position of piston #4 relative to where it SHOULD be you have a majorly fucked up con-rod. I would be concerned about damage to the bearings or crank. At a minumum you should replace that piston, rod, bearings, and hone that cylinder. Actually, while your in there you should probably hone all the cylinders and put better pistons (high comp) in.
BTW, who the hell welded up your header
That thing looks nasty.
Mike
BTW, who the hell welded up your header
That thing looks nasty.Mike
I wouldn't even mess with it. I'd bore the whole thing, the minimum you can get away with (.5mm?).
New Pistons (wrings, wrist pins, etc.)
New Rods
ALL new bearings
Check your crank for bends, cracks.
Check the deck of the block for any warpage
Check the head for warpage
Check the crank journals and bearing caps for being out of round.
I'm sure I'm forgetting something...
New Pistons (wrings, wrist pins, etc.)
New Rods
ALL new bearings
Check your crank for bends, cracks.
Check the deck of the block for any warpage
Check the head for warpage
Check the crank journals and bearing caps for being out of round.
I'm sure I'm forgetting something...
I know, I know, the weld job is as shitty as a port-a-john. Hell, y'all should see the custom collector that I made - talk about some fucked-up welding! The problem is that I taught myself to weld on this header & originally, used normal wire with no gas! Yeah, I know, I'm a dick-bag. But hey, when it was all said & done, that ******* header made power kick in like boost, (LITERALLY), @ around 5100rpm. God I miss driving this car!
I know, I know, the weld job is as shitty as a port-a-john. Hell, y'all should see the custom collector that I made - talk about some fucked-up welding! The problem is that I taught myself to weld on this header & originally, used normal wire with no gas! Yeah, I know, I'm a dick-bag. But hey, when it was all said & done, that ******* header made power kick in like boost, (LITERALLY), @ around 5100rpm. God I miss driving this car!
Although it does look bad...
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