well im in the process of changing out my head studs and replacing my head gasket and i decided to go ahead and change my piston rings since iv noticed i have been burning oil a bit too quickly and thought it might help....when i took out the pistons i noticed that the #3 piston had some wear on the sides. The cylinder walls had some slight wear but once i honed the walls it was barely noticeable. My question is how bad is this really and would it be ok to try to smooth out the piston a bit and reinstall it with some new rings. Obviously if i had the time and especially the money i realize that the best thing to do would be to get the block bored and get some oversized pistons but unfortunately do to funds i cant do this right now. any help or advice would be appreciated.
thanks

 

Get new pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get new pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

x2 get new ones forget those

 

New pistons run about ~$50 each new from Honda w/new wrist pin

 

correct me if im wrong, but isnt this a result of piston slap and yes you want to get new pistons and check your piston to wall clearance before you install again

 

ok well its only one piston thats like this, the others are fine. And yea if anyone can tell me what may have caused this i would really appreciate it. i would hate to get a new piston and have the same thing happen to the new one.

 

well either way you need to get new pistons those are shot and unless they were in perfect condition i would not even think about using them.

 

well it appears i have no choice but to get new pistons so i figure i might as well go with a set of forged pistons and rods, so now my question is what brand of rods/pistons should i look into and where is a good place to order from. Its a boosted b18c5 and im def looking to lower the comp with the pistons so im wondering what the ideal comp ratio would be and what bore size since ill also be getting the block bored.
thanks again everybody

 

What happened was the car was ran too lean, or with too much timing, the piston overheated and expanded into the cylinder wall--the ring seal on that piston is gone--that is why you were burning oil. I wouldn't just do a bottle hone and throw it back in, measure the cylinder it very well might be egg shaped--and it might not seal even with new pistons and rings. How do the other pistons look? What was the total timing? Who tuned it? What is the AFR at peak torque? Run the same tune on your new pistons and the same exact thing will happen again--find out why its happening. Its not piston slap--if the piston to wall clearance was incorrect it would show up on the bottom of the piston (the skirt) where the piston is widest. The piston has more clearance by the crown--when it takes in too much heat it expands more than it was designed to (with the clearance built in) that is why you have scarring and burning oil.

 

thank you for your input, like i said i realize that there might be damage to the block so im going to go ahead and get it slightly bored and drop in some oversized pistons... the car would already smoke before i had it tuned with the turbo so i figure this happened before it was tuned with the boost.the other pistons looked fined, and it was tuned on hondata s300. im not sure on the timing...

 

well it appears i have no choice but to get new pistons so i figure i might as well go with a set of forged pistons and rods, so now my question is what brand of rods/pistons should i look into and where is a good place to order from. Its a boosted b18c5 and im def looking to lower the comp with the pistons so im wondering what the ideal comp ratio would be and what bore size since ill also be getting the block bored.
thanks again everybody


anyone with any advice or opinions???

 

it all depends on your budget

there are many companies that make both pistons and rods, its all preference.

as for the compression ratio, most people go with the 9:x:1 compresion ratio.

high psi applications will go with lower compression ratios

 

well I found this deal on ebay for some wiseco pistons and eagle rods which seems pretty good but i wanted some feedback before making a final decision...

heres a link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...d=1,1

also, what would be the best bore size to go without getting the block sleeved 81.5?

 

wiseco and eagle are a very good choice, also good for the money too

also 81.5 will be fine

 

ok cool, i appreciate the feedback. So that seems like a pretty good price at $760 for everything...?

 

yea it doesnt sound bad, you can always go with used internals, forged internals as long as they are in good shape you can go with some good stuff for around that price.

i like crower h beam rods but thats just me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What happened was the car was ran too lean, or with too much timing, the piston overheated and expanded into the cylinder wall--the ring seal on that piston is gone--that is why you were burning oil. I wouldn't just do a bottle hone and throw it back in, measure the cylinder it very well might be egg shaped--and it might not seal even with new pistons and rings. How do the other pistons look? What was the total timing? Who tuned it? What is the AFR at peak torque? Run the same tune on your new pistons and the same exact thing will happen again--find out why its happening. Its not piston slap--if the piston to wall clearance was incorrect it would show up on the bottom of the piston (the skirt) where the piston is widest. The piston has more clearance by the crown--when it takes in too much heat it expands more than it was designed to (with the clearance built in) that is why you have scarring and burning oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup,

 

thanks alot for the help, im going to get some 9:5:1 pistons with a 82mm bore instead of 81.5, just in case the cylinders are damaged more than i think....