D16Y7 Valve Seal Question
is there any way to change my valve seals on my d16y7 without taking the head off? I am Not really going to have the money to go all out and get a head gasket, and one of my friends told me there was a way to do it using compressed air, does anyone have a DIY for that?
Do you happen to know if there is a DIY for the process? I've been searching the internet for the past hour, and haven't been able to find anything that shows how to do it, I don't know how I would end up getting the springs out?
how do you know they need changing? Oil consumption in these motors is more often a result of worn piston rings/cylinder walls or carbon-packed oil control rings than failed valve guide seals.
the parts may be cheap but the process is risky even if you know how, and have experience. a mistake will cost a lot more than a replacement head gasket. and it may not fix your problem.
the parts may be cheap but the process is risky even if you know how, and have experience. a mistake will cost a lot more than a replacement head gasket. and it may not fix your problem.
My mechanic did a compression and leakdown test, and said it was just the valve seals, but he doesn't work on 4-cylinders, and had no idea what I was talking about when I asked him about it
Run away and find a new mechanic. Any mechanic that doesnt know how to swap valve seals with the head still installed is a bone head. Hell, on some engines you can use nylon rope to hold the valves. (L series nissan engines have spark plugs on the side of the head at an angle, allowing you to feed rop into the xhamber to hold the valves)
a compression test won't reveal "valve seals" to be leaking. (valve seals normally means valve guide oil seals.) maybe leaking- bent or burnt valves.
you cannot fix your problem by installing valve guide oil seals. at minimum, the leaking valves need to be identified and replaced. this involves a test procedure (or the results from your mechanic) pulling the head, installing new valves, lapping them for a good seal, then basically doing a "top end" gasket kit, checking the timing, adjusting the valve clearances/lash and running it for another three months until the #2 rod bearing fails. oh, wait, that last part only happens to me.
good luck
you cannot fix your problem by installing valve guide oil seals. at minimum, the leaking valves need to be identified and replaced. this involves a test procedure (or the results from your mechanic) pulling the head, installing new valves, lapping them for a good seal, then basically doing a "top end" gasket kit, checking the timing, adjusting the valve clearances/lash and running it for another three months until the #2 rod bearing fails. oh, wait, that last part only happens to me.
good luck
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