Ok, I got all the basic mods..I'm only going N/A..I will never spray..I have Skunk2 Stage 2 cams, valve train, Skunk2 mani, Skunk2 chip, VAFC, Toda flywheel, Exedy clutch & I/H/E/C...I only have DC Sports USDM 4-1...Planning on JDM 4-1...I really need higher compression in my GSR (only 10:1) now for my cams to work right..So, I have $750 for new pistons, rings, and I guess I should get rods, since they are already in there..Should I get CTR pistons (12:6), JDM, forged? Also what kind of rods? Eagle? I want my power high mid, to high...Redline is at 9500 right now I'm 176 whp, which sucks I know with all the money I've dumped into it..and yes it's been dynoed.97k on the odometer....Please give me some advice, and how much the install should be..I hope it all won't be more then $900..

Thanks

 

IMO, 12.6:1 is a little high, but thats just me. Also, since you plan on staying N/A, perhaps ITR rods would be a good choice (assuming you have a B18C1).

 

Without head milling or a high compression headgasket PCT OS PCT slugs in a B18C1 will yield a C/R ~12.1:1... Oh well that's besides the point... Also I know sgT and a few other will probably argue about the C/R with me but I wrote up my own compression calc figuring in piston-deck and +cc of dome... As for the rods, stock B18C will work fine... I wanna see your dyno plot... As you said those cams do generate a lot of overlap and love high compression... Where is your peak power because even with CTR pistons I don't see your peak being 9500... Maybe 8500-9000rpm... That doesn't matter either but if you're running stock rods just toss in some ARP rod bolts and you'll be able to rev up there easy... As for the install most shops will charge ~$200 for mic'ing and assembling... Pistons, rings, and new wristpins will run ~$350... Machine work to overbore, hone, and pressing on pistons = ~$150... Bearings... Honda = ~$180... Now you're looking at close to $700 for just parts... Assembling and mic'ing a block really isn't that difficult and if you're are comfortable I would just do it yourself... I have to assemble my own motors or I don't trust them... I dunno, I'm just weird and extremely picky about how things are set, everything has to be perfect... Forgot to add in the ARP rod bolts but they should run you no more than $50... If ya need anything else let me know.... Good Luck

 

Kataku, where do you get ARP rod bolts? What if I get Eagle rods, do they come with good rod bolts? My power right now is like at 7000...I don't want it to be higher then that... I can get most of my parts for no more then 10% above cost, since I know a guy that owns his own business..I would have a shop hone, because I have no idea what I'm doing and don't trust myslef...I've heard I'll probably do better with JDM ITR pistons...You agree?

Thanks for your insight..

 

For the rod bolts I just go through my friends' shop... They are really not an online dealer so if you had no other way to get them I could probably buy them and then have you just pay me... There are a lot of places that sell them tho... As for the pistons... JDM ITR will work but they aren't going to be the best for those cams... Those cams love high compression and even running those in a B18C1 block with a P72 (B18C1) cylinder head you'll be at about 11.4:1.... That will work and make some power but you'll be able to get more out of it with PR3 or P30 slugs with are USDM and JDM B16A if you didn't know... Those are your really your only other choices.. It goes like this... USDM ITR (P73-A0) < JDM ITR(P73-00) < PR3 < P30 < PCT (CTR)... The thing about high compression is the higher you go the more money you will probably spend... Even with JDM ITR pistons I would still recommend that you run 310cc injectors... Anything higher would also need them... With that it will require a bit of tuning... You could use a VAFC or Hondata S200 system if you wanna spend a little bit more... Hondata is a lot more programmable tho you would most like have to have someone tune it for you unless you are familiar with it... An aftermarket fuel pump and FPR would also be a good idea... That's about all you need... With PCT pistons I would recommend all of the above... Remember that for just breaking in the motor (which I hope you will do) you would be cool without all the fuel management stuff... In fact even if you had it I wouldn't put it on until you are broken in... that allows time for you to get more parts... Really I guess what i'm trying to say is if you wanna go with anything higher than JDM ITR pistons you'll be spending the same amount of money so why not just go with the highest you can get... PR3's and P30's would also be awesome but you just have the ability to make more power with PCT's... Sorry I kinda went on and on but let me know if you need anything else... Latez

 

just shot peen your stock rods, and get J-ITR pistons

 

So, it sounds like CTR is my best choice..USDM CTR correct? How about Eagle rods? Would those work well with my setup.. By the way, I already do have a VAFC...yeah Katz, that would be cool if you I could arrange to get those rod connectors from you...Are they universal...Meaning no matter what type of rods i get they will work??

 

No the CTR slugs are JDM... B16B's only in Japan... hehe Anyways rod bolts are all different but if you go with OE pistons then I would just use OE rods or you'll have to modify the pistons since aftermarket rods float on the wristpin... If you go with aftermarket rods, then you will not need the bolts... It'll be a while before I can tell you exactly how much the bolts are because I'm at school which is about an hour and a half from home/shop and I don't know when i'll be goin home next.. Maybe this coming weekend... but keep in touch and i'll let you know what is goin on... Peace

 

Where's the best place to get CTR JDM slugs? How much do you think for the pistons, rings, rods??

 

I got my CTR OS w/ rings and wrist-pins from Marcus @ Heeltoe.

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/marketpla.../oem/index.htm

He was doing a package deal for H-T members a few weeks ago. Drop him a line and see if he's still honoring it. Great guy, great service, great parts.

 

did you do any hondata with it??? something is missing somewhere.

 

Again, I get all my parts from the same shop as the rod bolts... If you want me to get a price on everything i can... I can normally get **** for cost but I won't be able in this case so I'm probably not the best source... JDMhondaparts.com sells everything too... Peace What do you mean by this??? Sorry, I think I missed something...

 

With a higher comp ratio or pretty much any serious engine mods you'll need some engine management to keep the A/F ratio right. If you want the engine to last I would definitely not overlook engine management.

 

I've tuned all the way up to 12.5:1 with a VAFC and have never had problems... It will work just fine tho we use Hondata more often... I'm just sayin there is nothing wrong with a VAFC.... With OS PCT slugs in a B18C1 you're looking at a C/R ~12.1:1... With 310-370cc injectors, fuel pump, FPR, and correct ignition timing it is easily possible to tune with a VAFC... Peace

 

So Kata, I will definitely need injectors and fuel pressure regulator..This is the first time I've heard someone tell me this..Everyone has their own opinion as you know...You think the stock injectors are going to get maxed out? How much are injectors and what size is stock? Also, do I just get a OEM head gasket?

 

For the fuel pressure regulator I would go with an AEM... Tho a little more expensive it is able to both raise and lower the pressure below stock... With say a B&M you can only go up... Actually any brand that modifies the stock FPR is like this... I know that your stock injectors will not be enough... I've seen/built this setup many times and most of the time I use RC 310's... Sometimes 370's depending on what you are planning on down the road... Remember that for break in the stock injector will be fine along with a stock ECU make sure you back your ignition timing back down to ~12 degrees... All D series and B series stock injectors are 240cc and YES you'll need a new headgasket... Peace

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by purek9hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you do any hondata with it??? something is missing somewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine are in a B16, so I'm only running 10.85:1.

 

Kata, are you sure down to 12 degrees?...Isn't stock set to 16..Mine is at 18 now...I can't just leave it there until I get it tuned with the injectors and FPR? How much do 310 injectors go for along with a AEM fuel pressure regulator? Also, what do you think I can get my 1/4 time after break in and tuned..I pull a 14.7 now, but I know I can at least get a 14.4 with the right launch...13.5 at least I hope!!

 

I run 12 degrees on break for motor with ~11:5.1+, that's just me tho... I also don't rev above 3000rpm for the ENTIRE 1000 miles but like I told you I'm very picky about building motors... I suppose you can keep the timing at ~16 or so but you'll notice as the rings begin the car will probably start to detonating... That's why I just back it down to begin with... It's not like you're gonna be racing it... Those injectors normally go for anywhere from $250-$350 and the AEM FPR for ~$150... My friend Mike just bought a pair of 310's for his B18C but I wanna go with 370's for his nitrous setup and I'm pretty sure he is going to sell them... I'll have to double check but let me know if you are interested... As for this motor... I've never run SK2ST2 cams in a stock head... We use Portflow for just about all the motors I build... If running a non ported head the biggest cams I've used are CTR... I'm in the process of building this exact setup for my friend's EK... He just doesn't know right now if he's gonna have headwork done... But the closest motor to yours was probably my friend Brian's 84mm bore B18C... You have to figure that it displaced ~1.3L more than your motor but it was running 11.5:1 JE slugs, a Portflow P72 cylinder head, and SK2ST2 cams.... Those were the basics... Also running 310's and a VAFC... Only tuned by feel, he ran an 12.74@107 in his EG... In an EG your motor should be good for an EASY high 12 second pass... So yea, I wouldn't have any doubts about 13's... Get some slicks and you'll be set... You don't need anything crazy... MT 20x6x14's will work perfect... I guess if you want you could go with the 22x8x15 but they do have a negative affect on the "trick gearing" that the 20x6's have... Oh well, i'll talk to ya later... Peace