I have been searching for HOURS and HOURS and decided to create an account so I could seek help (cannot find much of anything).

I have a 2001 CRV AWD that I just swapped a JDM B20 and auto tranny into (stock trans was going out with 220k). I was somewhat misled by the engine supplier that I could "swap my crank sensor over or just do a sensor bi-pass". We were ***** deep in the swap on Sunday when we realized the engine blocks were different and couldn't "swap the crank sensor" (later found out the "oil pump housing" could have been swapped so we could use the crank sensor, too late now!). We did the install planning on doing the only alternative, the bi-pass. According to all info I have found this should only result in a check engine code until the bi-pass is carried out, but I have 2 most likely unrelated issues.

1) No idle at all, only throttle input will keep it idling but it runs great otherwise.

2) Trouble getting it out of park with the engine running. Engine off, no problem shifts to neutral and starting it up it works fine except sometimes it doesn't shift past 2nd. I think this is related to the fact we had to swap the neutral switch, but I cannot find an info on how to adjust the switch or if it not being adjusted is causing the issues shifting from park?

Please help!

 

No one?

 

Which intake manifold did you use? Any left over wiring connectors?

Have you tried adjusting the idle in accordance with the FSM procedure?

 

We did what the importer told us and used the USDM intake complete, and the exhaust. All I used from the JDM was the long block and the fuel injectors.

FSM procedure? Please let me know what this is. When I say it won't idle, I mean it isn't even close to trying, as if the IAC is not working at all (it did just fine when the USDM motor was in).

The only connector not used is the crank sensor...

Thanks!

 

factory service manual.

 

I didn't know the OEMs offered those. Sounds like it would be quite expensive? Do you have one and can share the procedure? I could also use the procedure for adjusting the neutral safety switch if you don't mind. Im hoping its the cause of the issues with shifting out of park.

 

BUMP!

 

have you tried google yet? most people use that and download the manual they need. you can buy hard copies from helm inc, or on ebay, or amazon. but most people jsut download the pdf. Over the years I have acquired the 92-95 civic, 88-89 crx, 90-93 accord, and 92-01 prelude manuals since those are teh cars I own, some I paid for and others i found the download. I am old school and prefer paper, but download is usually free.

 

Download is usually illegal, so I had not searched for a PDF for that reason alone. I am quite surprised no body seems to know about the difficulty shifting from park. I have searched for HOURS and the only thing anyone seems to think is the issue is the brake light sensor (my brake lights are working fine)...

 

That's because you are in the wrong section. They do have a CRV section that this would be better suited in where those of us that know them inside and out frequent...

I have a FSM but a lot of the information you need I have already posted in other threads.

Does the car start fine every time or are there times it doesn't crank? Any codes being thrown or stored? Why did you use the JDM fuel injectors? They could have gotten water in them when they power washed the engine as all importers do...

Turn out the idle screw to bump up the idle up so it will idle on it's own or you have a massive vacuum leak.

 

Did not see the CRV specific area. I know there are lots fewer CRV swaps going on and since this motor and trans is very much the same as many of the cars I figured good chance someone could help.

As of right now I just did the CKF mod (scotch locks). I had to "re-pin" after "de-pinning" (thank goodness I didn't cut the wires) as I got an SES light after the mod . Should have NOT followed the "RED" instructions:

.:FFS TechNet : CKF Bypass Trick :.

So now I have NO codes and no SES but the truck will not idle at ALL cold and hardly idle warm. If I turn the A/C on at idle it will stall. I removed, cleaned and checked the IAC and its working. The scanner reports around 16 or 17 degrees advance at idle (we removed the dizzy to install the drive train but carefully marked and re-installed it in exactly the same place as it was when it came off the boat.

I tried the idle screw but it is EXTREMELY hard to turn, even after WD-40 and its now almost completely stripped, the brass was breaking off in chips. So the plan now is to remove the TB and see what is going on in the passageway. Problem is the TB gaskets are special order only here in Vegas.

I used the JDM injectors, as I stated, because the USDM's looked HORRIBLE, literally CAKED in junk. The JDM's looked much cleaner and I figured they were on the motor in Japan and therefore much newer so why not? In fact I should have just used the whole JDM intake and just modified as needed. Im hoping I can at least use the TB if I can't get the USDM idle screw fixed. Is there an issue using the JDM injectors? They looked identical and the part numbers where almost the same, surely they are the same inpedence?

 

You need to properly set the distributor to rule that out. You have no idea why it was set where it was previously. It may be right but it isn't something I would just assume is correct. It definitely could cause a low idle issue if too much timing is pulled.

You should have taken off the throttle body and sprayed / soaked both sides of the bleed screw. It's just brass with a O-ring and threads into aluminum.

See my previous answer why I asked about the JDM injectors. You forget the engines are power washed multiple times and sit without fuel in them for who knows how many months let alone on the boat in an ocean. If they looked good, then OK I guess, but I personally would send them for cleaning before I use them. To each his own.

What does the scanner say the idle is at? How about all the other sensors, specifically the MAP sensor and TPS sensor? Some people plug those in backwards.

 

I agree, we are going to do that tonight or tomorrow. I have to research the proper procedure.

We just took the TB off right now, is the JDM a usable swap? What about the whole intake? We only changed it as the importer said it would be a direct bolt in if we did, and said the JDM intake was valuable to sell to "tuners".

I need your importer, the one I got this from certainly doesn't pressure wash! I was quite surprised how grungy it was. But there was no signs of corrosion from standing water. In fact the reason we used them is they looked almost new. Are they in fact he same impedance and flow as the USDM? I have no issues putting the USDM's back in but it will take some time to clean them good enough to even be able to install them!

Usually 550 to 600 rpm's but some times it won't idle at all even once warm. I know the MAP and TPS are not reversed as the wire loom wouldn't reach to allow that. Im very **** about having all the clips and zip ties in the factory positions.

Thanks for all your help!

 

The trouble with the idle screw was due not to junk on the threads, but the fact it was "staked". We were (barely) able to remove it (the screw) and clean up the staking, then re-install. Something is still not right, it now idles but lightly surges. It does respond to the idle screw input now, but even thought the IAC is functioning it doesn't seem to have enough ability to correct for A/C, head lights and drive or reverse simultaneously.

Going to do the timing sequence next as thats the only thing we haven't tried...

 

I dont remember where I downloaded my copy, but here is a copy hosted so that you dont have to download it. It you have trouble, just PM me and Ill see if I can send you the PDF copy that I have.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/58672605/H...-Manual#scribd

Find the Idle reset/learn procedure and try that.

 

Thanks very much! I guess I need to check the fast idle thermo valve. I misunderstood its operation based on what others were describing. Advancing the timing did not help anything.

 

Ok, try figuring this out. I have cleaned and or replaced (swapped JDM and USDM sensors multiple times) the fast idle thermo valve, IAC and set the ignition timing and the thing will still not idle worth a crap. I have determined the IAC is WORKING but the ECU isn't using it. I can MANUALLY open it and get a smooth idle (9 volt battery and jumper harness i made). When following the Service Manual instructions to set the idle speed, once I unplug the IAC and Purge solenoid, nothing changes.

No SES light, TPS is working and reporting 10.2% at idle, perfect.

Thermovalve works like its supposed to so once the car warms up and it closes, car idles like crap.

Did the ECM take a crap in the middle of my swap?? Any Vegas peeps willing to loan me a known good ECM? I really doubt this is the issue but the Service Manual flow charts are tapped out and nothing has worked. I have to use throttle cable tension to raise the idle high enough for the A/C to work, otherwise idle is 650 rpms at BEST (570 ish on average) even with idle screw falling out loose.

 

Bad ECM! FML!