Well I finally got it. I found some threaded holes in the flywheel, so I just bolted it to the engine using a bracket.

Still, I've done plently of these bolts as has my friend. We've never seen anything like this. It's off now, so it doesn't seem so bad anymore....but the force needed to break that sucker was so massive, I pretty much accepted that the crank was going to shear first...or at least the head off the bolt, in which case I'd cry.




[Modified by Lsos, 4:14 PM 11/14/2002]

 

An impact gun doesnt work? are you ******* joking me?! do you have a crank tool?

 

Use the impact gun and try to jar it loose by going foward first. Its needs to be broken free in any direction before it will think about moving. Engine turn the wrong way from the tranny to help you at all. The right tool and another 1/2 pry bar, and maybe cheater bars, is what you really need.

 

also try soaking the crank bolt with wd-40 also, it will help out a LITTLE bit.

 

An impact gun didn't work. I thought that was pretty crazy. When the brakes couldn't hold the torque I thought it was even crazier!

I have two methods of holding down the engine: put the car in gear (other than 1st), or stuff a rope in a cylinder. No crank tool.

I can apply any torque I want to the bolt. My concern is that something will break, like the transmission, or even that the head will shear off the bolt. Is this possible?

I will try the things you guys mentioned.

 

Does your motor have the service access hole to install that big bolt to keep the crank from spinning? My F22A does, it's in the Helms.

 

no problems here i have the honda crank pulley tool ....there are ways to rig it but i'm not going to tell you cause you might break something.....the only other method i would reconmend is using a pipe wrench tool..the one that ues a chain not a wire..good luck

 

I just did this on a civic during a timing belt change. We put it in 5th gear and applied the brakes. 5th gear is the best choice 1st gear is the easiest to turn. Think about it a second. When you are at a dead stop what gear is the easiest to get moving ?? 5th .. I think not. Try it in 5th gear it worked for me. we also used a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 4 1/2 feet Pipe over it.

 

I bought the crank pulley tool, stuck a 5' metal pipe on it to hold the pulley, took another 5' metal pipe on a rachet to turn the bolt itself.

Still took several minutes of my weight(200lbs) hanging on the pipe to knock it loose. When the bolt nudged, the sound of the crack was so loud, I thought I broke something.


[Modified by VWkila, 4:11 PM 11/14/2002]

 

Well I finally got it. I found some threaded holes in the flywheel, so I just bolted it to the engine using a bracket.

Still, I've done plently of these bolts as has my friend. We've never seen anything like this. It's off now, so it doesn't seem so bad anymore....but the force needed to break that sucker was so massive, I pretty much accepted that the crank was going to shear first...or at least the head off the bolt, in which case I'd cry.

I'm still kind of curious, how much torque do you think it would take to break a gear or shear the crank?

****...I accidently edited my original post

 

I haven't found an impact gun that will take these biatches off. I have a B series motor on a stand with no flywheel so my typical method of holding the ring gear wasn't an option. I tried blocking the crank with pieces of wood, but only ended up splitting them all. I moved on to shovel handles and destroyed those too. Finally, I bought the pulley tool, best $35 I ever spent. Considering the amount of time and effort it takes to remove the clutch access cover when the motor is on the car to slide something into the ring gear, the cost of the tool was well worth it.

 

That's good you got it If i don't have my friend's impact gun i do the same thing, i have my little 1/8th inch thick aluminum rod. The i got my pipe that works as a "breaker bay"... It does seem like a lot of stress on the bracket and screws but i've never snapped one yet!!!!