Craftsman Air Compressor Question?
Techs-
I am planning to get my First ever compressor to work on my Honda's(Civic/Accord).
I am planning to do all basic maintenance, as well as engine work(Timing Belt, W/P) etc... on the cars.
Questions:
1- First option, to get Oil-Free 20 Gal 1999(120V) Craftsman Air compressor~$85
2- Second Option, Oil-Free 33 Gal 2006(120V) Craftsman Air Compressor ~$100.
Which option should I go for and are the prices look fair or I am paying too much?
Please help and advise.
I am planning to get my First ever compressor to work on my Honda's(Civic/Accord).
I am planning to do all basic maintenance, as well as engine work(Timing Belt, W/P) etc... on the cars.
Questions:
1- First option, to get Oil-Free 20 Gal 1999(120V) Craftsman Air compressor~$85
2- Second Option, Oil-Free 33 Gal 2006(120V) Craftsman Air Compressor ~$100.
Which option should I go for and are the prices look fair or I am paying too much?
Please help and advise.
those are fine entry level compressors. prices are fair and brand is ok.
It sounds as if they are used..I would ask if you could try it out with an air tool. see how often it's required to cycle to keep up air pressure and how much force it can put out.
other than that, my suggestion would be to go 220v, if you have the means. I've had a few awesome name brand 120v air compressors that could not keep up with impacts/air ratchets, and definitely no D/A sanders etc.
It sounds as if they are used..I would ask if you could try it out with an air tool. see how often it's required to cycle to keep up air pressure and how much force it can put out.
other than that, my suggestion would be to go 220v, if you have the means. I've had a few awesome name brand 120v air compressors that could not keep up with impacts/air ratchets, and definitely no D/A sanders etc.
Techs-
I am planning to get my First ever compressor to work on my Honda's(Civic/Accord).
I am planning to do all basic maintenance, as well as engine work(Timing Belt, W/P) etc... on the cars.
Questions:
1- First option, to get Oil-Free 20 Gal 1999(120V) Craftsman Air compressor~$85
2- Second Option, Oil-Free 33 Gal 2006(120V) Craftsman Air Compressor ~$100.
Which option should I go for and are the prices look fair or I am paying too much?
Please help and advise.
I am planning to get my First ever compressor to work on my Honda's(Civic/Accord).
I am planning to do all basic maintenance, as well as engine work(Timing Belt, W/P) etc... on the cars.
Questions:
1- First option, to get Oil-Free 20 Gal 1999(120V) Craftsman Air compressor~$85
2- Second Option, Oil-Free 33 Gal 2006(120V) Craftsman Air Compressor ~$100.
Which option should I go for and are the prices look fair or I am paying too much?
Please help and advise.
33 gals for sure if those are the only options.
But if I had to find an ideal home garage compressor, and it had to be used ...
Craftsman 5hp 20 gal Oil-ed 220V ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-20-Gallon-5HP-240V-Single-Phase-Air-Compressor-/160997772334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257c370c2e&nma=true&si=e6xbZf7ziEFfsnGVMImJHMz9jSw%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
It's quieter then the oil-free ...
Has the flow rate equal to much larger machine ... 9.3 SCFM @ 90 psi
Small compact size - easier to move and transport (used it to remodel a rental home)
I bought mine used for $75 on CL.
But if I had to find an ideal home garage compressor, and it had to be used ...
Craftsman 5hp 20 gal Oil-ed 220V ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-20-Gallon-5HP-240V-Single-Phase-Air-Compressor-/160997772334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257c370c2e&nma=true&si=e6xbZf7ziEFfsnGVMImJHMz9jSw%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
It's quieter then the oil-free ...
Has the flow rate equal to much larger machine ... 9.3 SCFM @ 90 psi
Small compact size - easier to move and transport (used it to remodel a rental home)
I bought mine used for $75 on CL.
I have a 33 Gallon compressor and I wish I went bigger. Start using a polisher, cut-off wheel, air hammer, or some type of rotary tool and it gets annoying just from the noise having it run that much. I considered running a secondary tank not only for water separation but extra capacity. Basically the compressor will have to run for a long time once, then go longer without turning back on.
those are fine entry level compressors. prices are fair and brand is ok.
It sounds as if they are used..I would ask if you could try it out with an air tool. see how often it's required to cycle to keep up air pressure and how much force it can put out.
other than that, my suggestion would be to go 220v, if you have the means. I've had a few awesome name brand 120v air compressors that could not keep up with impacts/air ratchets, and definitely no D/A sanders etc.
It sounds as if they are used..I would ask if you could try it out with an air tool. see how often it's required to cycle to keep up air pressure and how much force it can put out.
other than that, my suggestion would be to go 220v, if you have the means. I've had a few awesome name brand 120v air compressors that could not keep up with impacts/air ratchets, and definitely no D/A sanders etc.

Yes, they both are used ones.
Thanks so much guys for the help and responses.
I am going to have a look on 20 Gal one today, but in my mind, I am definitely planning to get 33 one
Thanks so much for the help and responses.
I am going to have a look on 20 Gal one today, but in my mind, I am definitely planning to get 33 one

Thanks so much for the help and responses.
Trending Topics
I highly recommend giving consideration to a dewalt heavy duty cordless impact in lieu of a low torque impact setup you're considering. I've found it's more than adequate for anything I've thrown at it (brake caliper brackets, axle nuts, exhaust components) and you dont have to mess around with all the hoses and storage space for the equipment.
If you go with an air tools, you should go with a bigger tank that can actually run an impact gun that can crack loose your crank pulley bolt IMHO.
If you go with an air tools, you should go with a bigger tank that can actually run an impact gun that can crack loose your crank pulley bolt IMHO.
I highly recommend giving consideration to a dewalt heavy duty cordless impact in lieu of a low torque impact setup you're considering. I've found it's more than adequate for anything I've thrown at it (brake caliper brackets, axle nuts, exhaust components) and you dont have to mess around with all the hoses and storage space for the equipment.
If you go with an air tools, you should go with a bigger tank that can actually run an impact gun that can crack loose your crank pulley bolt IMHO.
If you go with an air tools, you should go with a bigger tank that can actually run an impact gun that can crack loose your crank pulley bolt IMHO.
Correct me, I think crank pulley bolt needs nearly 700-750 lbs/ft, which 33Gal should be able to produce or not?
Any opinion or feedback?
My Ingersol-Rand impact gun couldn't take off a crank pulley. We even tried upping the line pressure higher than the recommended 90PSI. I gave it 150PSI and still nothing.
Will 33 Gal compressor and this gun break that bolt?
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-p...nch-68424.html
Don't scare me
Get the crank holding tool because it's a guarantee. And you can torque it down again.
Size of the air compressor doesn't matter as much since all the low end unit has tiny exit hole. And running 50 ft of hose makes it even worst.
When I only had my IR 1/2' 600 ft/lb, for the uber pita ones, I would roll the engine to the compressor or compressor to the car, use a 3 ft air line, turn air to 125+ psi, lube the gun, cross my fingers ...
Now I have a 3/4 gun ... I haven't ran into a crank bolt that didn't come out on the first try.
Size of the air compressor doesn't matter as much since all the low end unit has tiny exit hole. And running 50 ft of hose makes it even worst.
When I only had my IR 1/2' 600 ft/lb, for the uber pita ones, I would roll the engine to the compressor or compressor to the car, use a 3 ft air line, turn air to 125+ psi, lube the gun, cross my fingers ...
Now I have a 3/4 gun ... I haven't ran into a crank bolt that didn't come out on the first try.
Apparently you have never ran a 33 gal compressor. It is plenty for a 1/2 impact, it will give full power and not constantly have to cycle....

I think 33 Gal is my best bet, as a start up compressor and i am going to grab it tomorrow, because $100 seems a great price too.

Planning to use 1/2 impact from Harbor Freight or an IR one to break the crank pulley bolt on the civic.
If I get a 1/2 IR impact, is there anything I should be worried or concerned about the used one?
Thanks for all the help guys
I have a 33 gal and I think its freaking annoying when it kicks on.
Overall if I had a choice to go back, I would have gotten an oiled driven by belt compressor 50+ gallon from harbour freight. What your have is cheap for the price and will do the job but if your planning to go the long haul, get yourself an oiled compressor. I've been using my other 5.5 and it works pretty darn good.
Overall if I had a choice to go back, I would have gotten an oiled driven by belt compressor 50+ gallon from harbour freight. What your have is cheap for the price and will do the job but if your planning to go the long haul, get yourself an oiled compressor. I've been using my other 5.5 and it works pretty darn good.
Get the crank holding tool because it's a guarantee. And you can torque it down again.
Size of the air compressor doesn't matter as much since all the low end unit has tiny exit hole. And running 50 ft of hose makes it even worst.
When I only had my IR 1/2' 600 ft/lb, for the uber pita ones, I would roll the engine to the compressor or compressor to the car, use a 3 ft air line, turn air to 125+ psi, lube the gun, cross my fingers ...
Now I have a 3/4 gun ... I haven't ran into a crank bolt that didn't come out on the first try.
Size of the air compressor doesn't matter as much since all the low end unit has tiny exit hole. And running 50 ft of hose makes it even worst.
When I only had my IR 1/2' 600 ft/lb, for the uber pita ones, I would roll the engine to the compressor or compressor to the car, use a 3 ft air line, turn air to 125+ psi, lube the gun, cross my fingers ...
Now I have a 3/4 gun ... I haven't ran into a crank bolt that didn't come out on the first try.
X2 for the crank holding tool.
I also have 3/4" impact along with others. Also the red compressors from sears are very loud, The black ones make much less noise. If it's not to late spend a little more money now and you'll enjoy it more over the years.

I definitely agree with you on these oil-less ones, they are 'LOUD'.
Prolly, i am going to get a crank pulley holding tool and 3/4 impact to crack the bolt.
Out of curiosity, do I really need a crank pulley tool if I am using an impact gun?
No just get the crank holding tool. save your money and upgade to a better compressor later, Also check out Tractor Supply They had a nice compressor in the $200 range in the current ad flyer.
You'll learn with compressors and air tools, it's all about the cfm...more cfm=better tool performance.
Do your homework and buy a good compressor, you'll have it for life.
You'll learn with compressors and air tools, it's all about the cfm...more cfm=better tool performance.
Do your homework and buy a good compressor, you'll have it for life.
No just get the crank holding tool. save your money and upgade to a better compressor later, Also check out Tractor Supply They had a nice compressor in the $200 range in the current ad flyer.
You'll learn with compressors and air tools, it's all about the cfm...more cfm=better tool performance.
Do your homework and buy a good compressor, you'll have it for life.
You'll learn with compressors and air tools, it's all about the cfm...more cfm=better tool performance.
Do your homework and buy a good compressor, you'll have it for life.
You talking about this one:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...=&cm_vc=-10005
I am not gonna lie, am scared to handle the CP bolt without the air tools

Also, for $100 a 33 gal compressor is very difficult to pass.
But if you think that this $200 is better, maybe I can buy that?
Any advice?
Ok, yes the second one in your 1st post is a decent one. It's just loud.
For the price difference, your better off with that.
But really, if you get eh crank holding tool and let that rest against the chassis, and have a good socket, extension and a long 1/2" breaker bar and piece of 1 1/4" water pipe to slip over the breaker bar, you'll be fine.
Worst case, buy the impact socket set from Harbor Fright. I have one for the bigger sizes. I needed a deep 24mm for the oil cooler bolt on my Subaru Legacy GT when I put a new short block in it.
Here's a picture with mine in it.
For the price difference, your better off with that.
But really, if you get eh crank holding tool and let that rest against the chassis, and have a good socket, extension and a long 1/2" breaker bar and piece of 1 1/4" water pipe to slip over the breaker bar, you'll be fine.
Worst case, buy the impact socket set from Harbor Fright. I have one for the bigger sizes. I needed a deep 24mm for the oil cooler bolt on my Subaru Legacy GT when I put a new short block in it.
Here's a picture with mine in it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post








