ok so i did a motor rebuild and turbo last month and didn't put much consideration or thought into which clutch to get. so i got the 3 puck stage 2 exedy racing clutch kit. well 521 miles later, keeping 90% of shifts under 3.5k, my clutch is gone. i then asked a friend about it and he said that was a racing clutch and made for the strip, not everday stoplight to stoplight driving. Is that true or did I just not break it in right? Can anyone tell me which clutch I do need if so. Do i want pucks or fullface disc? right now i am only pushing 185ish maybe to the wheels and later I am going to get it tuned to no less than 230whp

 

bump for help

 

.........help

 

What do you mean "gone"--is it slipping? Do you have a cable clutch--if so you might not have enough freeplay--which would cause it to slip. I also have an Exedy 3 puck "thin" clutch on my d16a6--I have about 100 miles on break in and I had an issue yesterday--where I was driving and I went to shift so I stepped on clutch pedal and I heard a "clunk"--pedal went to the floor (this is a cable trans)-I thought I probably broke the pedal assembly--which has happened to me before and is pretty common with heavy clutches on EFs--or I thought the clutch cable snapped--it was neither--the clutch arm all of a sudden had like 2" of play--so I adjusted the cable--and its been driving/shifting fine since yesterday--I am still trying to figure out whats wrong and if I am hurting the clutch by driving like this. I would NOT get this Exedy 3 puck again--all I ever hear are problems with these Exedys--which is strange because Exedy is the performance arm of Daiken, and Daiken manufactures all the oem Honda clutches..

 

it hasn't slipped yet, but 200 miles ago the clutch pedal was stiff and it engaged almost instantly (like 1/2 inch of letting the pedal out). now its semi loose and it engages with the pedal almost all the way out. is that normal or no? its the z6 tranny

 

Sounds like you either:

*need to replace your Clutch Master and Slave
*need to bleed your clutch system of air
*have a leak somewhere along your clutch lines allowing air into the system.

But I would put my bets on the Clutch Master and Slave cylinders needing replacement.

 

ok how much $$$ and intensity of labor/knowledge will I be looking at? on my old setup, my clutch was worn out and slipping and when i swapped in the new motor and clutch it was perfect, then it just slowly diminished to juts how my old worn clutch felt.

 

About 100 bucks for both parts if you go OEM. Labor wise, if you have general mechanical abilities, you can tackle this one. On a scale of 1 to 5, this one is a 2...and only because bleeding the system after the install can be tricky if its your first time. Search for threads that go into the install and you'll see how easy the whole thing can be.

 

lets say i dont fix it right away, can it get worse or break anything and cause more damage? or will it just leave my clutch hella loose?

 

At some point when they both wear out completely, you wont be able to disengage the clutch....in other words, you wont be able to change gears, let alone get into a gear without grinding them.

 

i have 3 options, $40 ebay, $100 oem, or $190 omni power, any suggestions?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmw626 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have 3 options, $40 ebay, $100 oem, or $190 omni power, any suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont know about the Omni one....real nice looking deal but with the life expectancy of an OEM one, I think i'll just practice shifting a little more. I never tried an Ebay master cylinder but I would think it would last maybe a few thousand miles less than an OEM one. Who knows, you may go through 3 ebay masters as long as 2 oem ones....in the end, it was still cheaper with the 3 ebay ones.