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checked compression need help

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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 03:12 PM
  #1  
greenli0n25's Avatar
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From: houston, texas
Default checked compression need help

I checked my compression on my 99 h22a4 now i have no idea what the compression is supposed to be per cylinder so if you guys could help me out and I need to figure out why 1 is lower than the others. Also is the compression low on all the cylinders besides the #3 cause the car feels real slow. Ok it went like this on stock motor.


#1. 160 #2. 160 #3. 125 #4. 160
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 03:23 PM
  #2  
LudeyKrus's Avatar
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First off, your numbers look low. How did you do the compression test?

Go back, stick the gauge in each cylinder and turn it over for at least about 6 full long secfonds.

It does look like your #3 cylinder is low, indicating a bad ring or bent valve. Go back and try the test like I said and see what your numbers are.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 03:39 PM
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thats how i did the test, the car does not smoke either incase that helps
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 03:57 PM
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From: Kansas City, MO, USA
Default Re: (greenli0n24)

next step would be to drop a little oil in each cylinder and try compression test again.

The oil acts as a seal around the rings.

If compression goes up, then rings, cylinder walls, pistons could be the culprit.

If compression stays the same, then problem is in valve train, ie. burned valves, cracked, bad seats, etc.

Since numbers seem pretty low on all cylinders ( with exception of #3-definitely has issue) I wonder, did you disable injectors so as not to wash down cylinders when performing compression test.

Just a thought...

Let us know what you find
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 03:58 PM
  #5  
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From: Kansas City, MO, USA
Default Re: (hondatim)

By the way, compression should be around 195-220 on healthy H22 engine with less than 10% variance across all cylinders.

Hope this helps
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 04:19 PM
  #6  
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From: houston, texas
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thanks alot hondatim I will try the test again tomorrow with the oil when there is daylight, I hope its nothing wrong with the block as far as the other stuff i was looking into buying some new piston, rings and rods for it. If those are all ok and its the valves i might as well do the head work then before the engine work, thanks for the help
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 05:51 PM
  #7  
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From: whitehouse, tx., usa
Default Re: (greenli0n24)

make sure you block the throttle wide open when you do the comp. test , I didnt and my #'s were real low.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 07:33 PM
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Default Re: (gloryhog)

Agains was caused by injectors spraying fuel into cylinders, washing the walls down with fuel.

Good thought on opening throttle to full open...

This puts system in to what is known as 'clear flood' mode. (causes injectors not to open while cranking to keep from flooding engine)

Good post gloryhog, this is easiest way to disable injectors
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 08:35 PM
  #9  
greenli0n25's Avatar
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what do you mean i should hit the throttle to wot when doing the test?
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 08:39 PM
  #10  
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Default Re: (greenli0n24)

Simply put, just hold accel to floor to put ECU into 'clear flood' mode. This will keep injectors from spraying fuel into cylinders while cranking so as to not wash cylinders down with fuel which causes low compression test results.

hope this helps....

Let us know if you need anything else...
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 08:40 PM
  #11  
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From: Kansas City, MO, USA
Default Re: (hondatim)

Also, don't forget to disconnect distributor to disable ignition
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 06:23 AM
  #12  
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From: Valdosta, Ga, US
Default Re: (hondatim)

i always pull the relay under the dash on the drivers side. That makes sure no fuel is sent.
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 07:29 AM
  #13  
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ok i have not redone the test yet, but i will try it again with the info yall gave me thanks
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