I'm looking to boost a could of cheap HP out of my B16a. Here's a list of MOD's so far. What can I do right now to get a couple extra ponies out of her without spending much $$$:

90 CRX Si
B16a1
CAI
DC Sports 4-2-1 Ceramic Coated Header
Test Pipe
2.25" Cat-Back exhaust
OBX 10.2mm Spark Plug Wires (I know...CRAPPY wires...they were phreee tho. I am looking for some stock ones to put on her)

I am getting the valves adjusted this week, and putting in some new NGK's. Looking for wires still though. What are some tweaks I can do to her before heading to the track this Wed?

JB

 

Get new plugs, index them & experiment with gap.
TB & IACV coolant bypass - if your engine is so equiped.
Weight reduction.
If you still have A/C & PS, you can take those belts off to get rid of some parasitic
drag. Hell, you could even pull the alternator belt as long as your battery's in
good shape.
Take off your rear bumper to reduce aerodynamic drag.
Make a catchcan, or just vent the crankcase pressure & plug the hole in the IM.
Play with your timing.
Use the highest octane gas that you can find & perhaps some quality octane
booster which will allow you to further increase the timing if your engine wants
more advance.
Do anything to route air to your air filter - i.e. remove headlight, fabricate a scoop
of some sort - whatever possible.

 

Getting plugs tomorrow.
TB&IACV...More info please
No A/C, No PS
I want to keep the integrity of the car and still be able to pull 14's. I want to be able to go from the track to the street and look good in both settings.

 

If you don't have the washers to index the plugs, you'll need to get them too.

There may be coolant lines running to and from your TB & IACV. This is done to help get the components up to operating temp and also keep them from freezing in colder climates. Once the engine is at operating temp, you have hot coolant running through your TB & IACV, when you really want to keep everything around the IM as cool as possible. Just disconnect these inlet & outlet lines, then connect them to each other. This won't give you anything noticeable, but every little bit counts.

 

I've got the gapping tool (the little keyring one from Discount ) What is the indexing tool and exactly what does it do?

 

there was a magazine over here "Hot4s" that did dyno tests with indexing on a 200SX

it showed a 2kw increase in peak power from a solid couple of 100kw baseline runs...

do honda heads respond this well?

the 'open' side of het plug should face teh intake manifold right?

is it hard cause the pluugs are so deep in the head? any tips?

t..

 

They are washers of different thickness that you use to face the open side of the plug toward the exhaust valves - the area of highest ionization. Moroso & one other company are the only ones I know of that make them. You get 3 different sizes & probably about 12 of each size - don't remember the price.

I mark the hex part of the plug with a "Sharpie" so that I know which way the open end is facing. I put my deep socket over the plug, & mark the top of the socket so that it coincides with the mark on the plug, (this way I can tell by the mark on the top of the socket which way the plug is facing when I look down in the plug holes. I also mark the top of my socket extension so that I have a quick reference, but that's not completely necessary if you don't want to mark up all your tools. Tighten the plug down & see where the mark ends up. Add a washer, (thickness depending on how far off the plug is), tighten it down & see where the mark is then. Repeat this process until the open side of the plug is facing either or both of the exhaust valves.

This is a big PITA the first time that you do it because the washers don't end up rotating the plug as far as they are supposed to. But after the first time, it's not too bad.

 

catch can 10 dollars really easy mod to lower intake temps. just like the coolent bypass mod. those 2 will help alot.

 

Ok. I got a pic of them. Now...All of the lines that are going to them should be connected together, or how should I connect them?



JB

 

$59 buys you a DIY kit for your ECU from me....defiantly worth few horses over stock....comes with two chips and parts/instructions




[Modified by eg6ajk, 11:05 AM 4/22/2002]

 

um , those are vacuum lines , no coolant in there man

under the TB there is a coolant line in,out going to the IACV on the back of the intake man. then back to its point of origin , get rid of that and route it back into itself

 

eg6ajk,

What proggy would you rec for the B16a running a PR3. I'm planning on going N/A with it. I might be putting N2O on it in a couple of weeks, so I want one that works well with the nitrous.

jB