Changing Clutch myself, any tips or warnings
I'm going to attempt to change my clutch myself this weekend. Are there anything i should pay special attention to? This is my first time, but i've done all of the supension, brake, and turbo stuff myself. Any tips to make the job go by faster and with less headaches? Thanks.
Its good to have a cherry picker so u can lift the engine while the transimssion is gone. Otherwise, if you don't have something to hold the engine up, you'll have a slanted engine and lining up the shaft in your clutch disc will be a bitch unless ur really talented. Make sure u torque ur bolts in the correct sequence. hope that helps..peace
There's usually a plate on the far side of the transmission (the engine side) that's really thin. You need to unbolt and remove this before you can pull the transmission or it'll hit the flywheel and you'll be cursing for hours trying to figure out why it won't come off. Don't ask how I know
.
Oh yeah, replace your throwout bearing while you're at it, too.
.Oh yeah, replace your throwout bearing while you're at it, too.
I would get a friend, even a big dumb one, to help move the tranny around
for you. If you don't have a cherry picker you can use a 2by4 and your emergency jack on the oilpan, it will hold the
engine up and the 2by4 will aid in no putting a ding in the pan.
for you. If you don't have a cherry picker you can use a 2by4 and your emergency jack on the oilpan, it will hold the
engine up and the 2by4 will aid in no putting a ding in the pan.
I know my 92' Integra had Torx head bolts holding the clutch together. Not a big deal, but a real pain if you don't have that type of socket on hand, and have to go take a shower and call a cab to go buy one. All hypothetical, of course
Not sure if that's what's used on yours though. Might be worth a call to the local dealer before hand, unless you have another car available to purchase the right socket after its apart.
Not sure if that's what's used on yours though. Might be worth a call to the local dealer before hand, unless you have another car available to purchase the right socket after its apart.
The pressure plate is attached with 12pt bolts, 10mm I believe is what I had to buy. You definitely should get a clutch alignment tool if you don't have one. If you can't get the grease for the bearings and such from Honda, I used high temp wheel bearing grease. No problems so far! If you change your flywheel, if I remember correctly, the bolts were 12 pt SAE rather than metric.
The biggest pain is when you didn't line up your disc right. Especially when you are using a dual "D" pressure plate.
Anyway, have that one "Dumb" friend lift the tranny up while you slide underneath the car and have him set the tranny on your chest or arms. Then have them assist you on the "Stabbing of the input shaft" and "Shake" . Trust me, you'll know what I mean.
Anyway, have that one "Dumb" friend lift the tranny up while you slide underneath the car and have him set the tranny on your chest or arms. Then have them assist you on the "Stabbing of the input shaft" and "Shake" . Trust me, you'll know what I mean.
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The torque for the pressure plate is 19 pounds......check your manual to make sure. You should never memories torque specs though(got that from the Air Force)
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