car wont start
so here is my story. I was doing some work on my car when i was all done I was trying to start it and no luck ....my started doesnt turn over....I jumped the starter and it works i traced back the wire that goes from the starter to the fuse box under the dash its good also . When I was looking at fuses one of them under the hood was blown #35 or #36.
there is a 4 wire plug that goes from the ignittion to the fuse box. 3 wires have constant 12v and the third one gets 12v when i turn the key all the way.....but now when i plug it in and try to start I dont see any voltage at the starter end...why
just jumped the starter with the key in the second position ...it started and runs good......is it my ignition than?
there is a 4 wire plug that goes from the ignittion to the fuse box. 3 wires have constant 12v and the third one gets 12v when i turn the key all the way.....but now when i plug it in and try to start I dont see any voltage at the starter end...why
just jumped the starter with the key in the second position ...it started and runs good......is it my ignition than?
Manual or automatic transmission?
If there is no power on the starter wire out of the ign. switch, [black/white] replace the ign. switch.
Do a simple test, use a jumper wire from the white/black in the ign.switch harness to the black/white in the ign. switch harness, easy to do at the plug, stuff the striped wire into the back of the plug with the white/black then touch the jumper to the terminal in the plug with the black/white, if car is a standard you will need to step on the clutch, if starter motor cranks, replace the ign. switch.
Question, do you have an alarm, is there a starter cut relay installed someplace on the black/white starter lead? 94
If there is no power on the starter wire out of the ign. switch, [black/white] replace the ign. switch.
Do a simple test, use a jumper wire from the white/black in the ign.switch harness to the black/white in the ign. switch harness, easy to do at the plug, stuff the striped wire into the back of the plug with the white/black then touch the jumper to the terminal in the plug with the black/white, if car is a standard you will need to step on the clutch, if starter motor cranks, replace the ign. switch.
Question, do you have an alarm, is there a starter cut relay installed someplace on the black/white starter lead? 94
i went throught the manual and it says there should be continuity between white , black and yellow and the black and white...i did the test with the volt meter and everything looks good .....I also did the test by jumping black/white and the white/black wires together..... when the ignition is off completely the starter kicks in but when i put it into second position and try to jump them together nothing happens
Trending Topics
That is strange, white/black is 12V+ constant, [power for ign. switch] black/white is the starter lead, runs from ign. switch to/through starter relay to the starter solenoid, jumping from white/black to black/white is supplying 12V+ directly to the starter lead, it should make no diff. at all what position the ign. switch is in, you are bypassing the ign. switch.
The only thing I can think of is some kind of immobilizer/starter kill that is active when ign. switch is on and is after the jump point.
To confirm try this, do the bypass jump, but this time do it right at the starter solenoid, use a jumper from batt. pos.(+) and the starter solenoid input.
If engine cranks with ign. switch on, then there is a starter cut relay/immobilizer installed and the relay is powered by the cars ign. circuit.
The "kill" relay can be installed on the started lead itself or on the CIS, [clutch interlock switch] lead to the starter relay, or on the power lead to the starter relays coil.
If you have a multimeter or test light, test the black/white starter lead, starting at the ign. switch then at the input and output of the starter relay and at the starter solenoid. 94
The only thing I can think of is some kind of immobilizer/starter kill that is active when ign. switch is on and is after the jump point.
To confirm try this, do the bypass jump, but this time do it right at the starter solenoid, use a jumper from batt. pos.(+) and the starter solenoid input.
If engine cranks with ign. switch on, then there is a starter cut relay/immobilizer installed and the relay is powered by the cars ign. circuit.
The "kill" relay can be installed on the started lead itself or on the CIS, [clutch interlock switch] lead to the starter relay, or on the power lead to the starter relays coil.
If you have a multimeter or test light, test the black/white starter lead, starting at the ign. switch then at the input and output of the starter relay and at the starter solenoid. 94
If your car is manual your clutch switch stopper may have finally broken. it breaks and falls out just like the brake light swtich stopper and can be repaired just like the brake light stopper. Without the switch depressed the starter signal wire will not recieve power. There are 2 switches on the upper area of the clutch pedal assy. get a light stick your head under the dash and see if the switches are actually being depressed/released when you press the clutch pedal to the floor. Good luck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Schultzie
Tech / Misc
4
Jan 23, 2013 09:46 PM
bullvii
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
2
Jul 8, 2010 02:42 PM
efdxjdm
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
10
Sep 28, 2009 01:59 PM
SupraManAG
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
5
Aug 24, 2008 10:02 AM




