I own a DX hatch, with a B16C. I want to upgrade the camshaft. I have a GSR head. I plan to rev into the 9000 range... I'm testing a theory that I recently learned, but my question is what all is necessary to rev into those numbers. I know I need to uprgrade springs, shafts, and etc...but what else? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

What is a b16c? That one could go either way...not unlike a hermaphrodite

 

Explain...

I guess what you are trying to say, well ask...

A B16C is a SiR bottom...GSR head...

does that help?


[Modified by civicman01', 7:06 PM 1/14/2003]

 

Ok, let me get a little more precise, maybe that's why no one has responded.

I need to rev into the 9000 rpm range. I am running a B16A/C ( siR ) with a GSR head... The GSR head is fully stock beyond a p&p...I have a CAI/H/E cams, and etc. I redline around 8400 right now comfortably.

What camshafts have people experimented with and are pleased?
What brands of springs/retainers, and etc. should I use?

What is a good set up for that high of Rpms?

The block has had work done to it, before I bought it, not totally sure but,
I believe that it was overbored to 85mm, sleeved and etc. I'm not sure about the actual crank, but it seems a little bit strong for stock. I did the head swap, and engine swap myself. I want to push the rpm range now,

Please help...

 

Skunk 2 stage 3, with their proprietary valvetrain components, are standout. Crower 403's with their valve springs and rets. are nice as well, a little more streetable than the skunk 2, but, natuarally, a little less power potential. I would also consider head studs and extravagant tuning, you want to make sure thing are nice and tuned @ 9k.

 

Awesome... I have already invested in a tuning session w/ the local tune shop, but he has plans for my car... he said he wants to push me to 9grand, because he wants to test a new bottom end that he has designed, balanced and blueprinted. He said he'll do the tuning if I supply the head...I couldn't resist...It's about 500 smackers for the tuning alone...

 

whenever purchasing new cams which are much more aggressive you'll need to upgrade your vavletrain, in that case, springs + retainers come to mind. to rev that high you'll need something that stiffer, but as well something that won't bind (otherwise you'll have a problem) keeping the weight off the valvetrain reduces the stress as well it increase the power thus, titanium is the choice for strenght to weight ratio. valves which are lighter can also be beneficial as well.

cams such as Spec B/C or Jun II/III or Skunk2 2/3 or Crowers 3/4 all come to minds as aggressive cams which are able to make power at that point. remeber that its usually best to get the valve train which was recommended by the manufacturer to avoid any problems. or something that has been tested extensively. research and read there is whole bunch of info on the cams, especially in the ITR forum

 

i have jun 3's with jun valvesprings and crower retainers in my b16 head and i rev to 9800 all day long but whatever cams you use use their valvesprings and retainers otherwise you could run into problembs

 

Definately feel you on that. I appreciate the post, I learned something new...

 

lol

Another bit of info you might wanna take into consideration is your compression ratio. Do you know the approximation of your compression ratio ?

I ask this because, usually the bigger lobed cam shafts (Jun3, Toda C's, Skunk 3's) all work best with high compression. Stage 2's for under for all those brands of cams, should work with decent compression (under 11.0), but work best with 11.0 or higher compression...and dyno tuning.

If you dont know your compression ratio, you should get in contact with the person who built your block and ask them what pistons they used. Also what head gasket are you using now?

I suggest you get all of your performance parts on your car that you want to buy, before you visit the dyno, so that when you go dyno, you can have ALL of your performance parts on all at once, and have a complete dyno.



[Modified by Katman, 4:09 PM 1/14/2003]

 

drop in a CTR or 00-01 ITR intake cam, tune it and be done with it you'll see a good amount of power increase especially with fuel and cam tuning capabilities.
In that head you will need ITR LMAs to run long term with the rocker ratio being more agressive in the GSR. Also, ITR valvesprings will be a nice upgrade... leave the stock retainers unless you like the idea of more lift at the valve with the skunks or crowers, just understand that you will need to change them out every 15K.


[Modified by MikeSarr_GSR, 11:52 PM 1/14/2003]