Im getting some skunk2 cams stage 1 and the valvesprings. I was just wondering how much would they charge me for install....approx? thanks

 

well my friend priced a cam gear and installation for his EX and they wanted 155

so i would think for a B series i would be slightly higher...the extra 90 for the gear and mayeb 30 more for installation

 

figure you will have to have it done by a tech that is trustworthy and
knowledgable. I wouldnt spend more or less than $250 to have them
installed and have the valvesprings installed. the valvespring installation
is tricky due to the fact that not everyone knows how to do this w/o
pulling the head. also, bear in mind all the things that should be changed
when you do a job like this:

when they are taken out and reinstalled the valve clearances need
to be checked WHILE COLD and adjusted to spec if needed. also be
a STICKLER about the TQ spec on the bearing caps that hold the
cams to the head. those round surfaces on the head are VITAL
for engine performance as they create oil pressure! this is critical
for VTEC. too tight or too loose can damage these surfaces on the
cam, but your main consern should be for the head and cam caps
which cannot be replaced unless you get a new head all together.
BE SURE 100% If you hear knock when the motor starts, they are
not TQed to spec and can freeze down the road from oil starvation.

timing belt will get more wear when you install stiffer valvesprings and
higher lift cams. if you have close to 60K+ I would have a belt put on, with a
new water pump and tensioner w/spring. the belts tend to wear the old pumps
out when they are changed. I also reccomend the Ti retainers, however
bear in mind that they dont last like the stock retainers. you will reduce
the unsprung weight by 6gm per valve... it is worth it. have them coated
with Titanium Nitride and they will not wear nearly as bad as if they
were naked they operate at a pretty high temp. the coating helps this
alot.

also, look into installing ITR/CTR lost motion assemblies. this will ensure
that your VTEC followers are precise and can handle the extra load/lift
you will be throwing at your somewhat worn GSR LMAs. If you do not do this,
you run the risk of being down the road later with broken valvesprings. this
is not a good thing they are easiest to replace when the head
is off the car, however you can do it... you just need to jack the motor with
the upper mounts removed to clear the front 1/4 panel with the rocker
assembly shafts that need removing.

you can also do some adjustable cam sprokets as well, bear in mind the skunk2
are nice however hard to read and operate due to not marked in crank degree refrence. you want +10/-10 gear that is also slippage resistant. the STR gears seem to have this inherant trait. aems are nice for this also, however are known for letting go under load. some engine builders use them with different fasteners
to solid results due to thier ease of tuning. keep in mind that when you advance the valve lashes get TIGHT and when you retard, the valve lash gets LOOSE. this is a risk to you. know what you are doing and why. speed shops for the most part do not care about your motor breaking. they only slap things together... they work
great for a while and then things begin to degrade.

some things to think about


[Modified by MikeSarr_GSR, 5:26 AM 9/18/2002]

 

Thanks man for your elaborate explanation, now you are getting me scared Well im gonna take it to AEBS here in SD, i heard they do awesome work and they are respected around here, even though they charge a lil more. Im pretty sure they will do a good job with me thanks again

 

good luck, you are on your way to the knowledge bomb