Smash03

I was finally able to put the engine back together. Been so busy with work everything. Anyways, I got the car running and it ran fine. Until a few blocks later, every time I would go from a stop, it would bog a few yards than it would run normal again. I figured its because its been a few months since the engine ran and the fuel might have gotten too old or something. So I went to get gas and it ran better. But then the thermometer started rising rapidly. By the time I got back to the house, the needle was passed H. When I got home, I was going to refill the coolant but it was already full. This was two nights ago and this morning I started the engine and it ran fine, but the needle on the thermometer went pass half way quick.

Here's what happened before I got the engine running. I messed up the timing a little bit and I also forgot to reconnect the little hose attached to the intake for the coolant. So when I started the engine, I felt the timing was off already and I saw water leaking out. I stopped the engine right away and corrected everything.

What could be causing the thermometer to rise so quickly? Could it be just a faulty thermometer, or is something messed up inside the engine?

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Are you low on coolant? Are your fans coming on? Do you have milky oil?

Smash03

I checked the coolant level, its good. Oil looks the brand new still. I don't think the fan came on. But that wouldn't cause the thermometer to rise as soon as I start the engine tho, right?

Smash03

Could I have bent the valves even if the crank was a few degrees off for the moment?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

If u bent valves ur car wont be running. Bleed the air out of the radiator.

Smash03

I've never done that before, but I learned the steps. Correct me if I'm wrong. Open the bleeder valve and top off the radiator til the coolant spills out of the bleeder valve. Close the valve then top off the radiator again. Is that all there is to it?

Smash03

OK, so I think the coolant is somehow getting into the engine cuz I see white smoke coming out from the valve cover. I also feel like I have to do a valve adjustment cuz the head seems to be making clicking noises.

Smash03

I took the valve cover off, no signs of coolant or milky oil. Checked the dipstick, same thing. Bled the radiator and topped it off, everything is good there. The only things that I would say concern me is the needle on the thermometer rising to H as soon as it starts from a cold start, light clicking noises from the engine, and whtie steam coming out from the valve cover area. Any thoughts?

fourthgenhatchB17

Not true.

Smash03

bump for answers

Smash03

bump

hybrid_KJ

The 20 ft-lbs torque is for a vtec head, the bolts have a 12mm head on them. The ls cam cap bolts have a 10mm head and should only be torqued to like 8 ft-lbs if I remember correctly. That is why you broke them.

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

I think we are way past that point of the thread and onto something totally different now and you're info is also wrong. Secondly I've had brand new out of the Honda bag cam rail bolts snap on me.

cibao2ner

most of the times engines overheat pass the H...the headgasket blows...

Smash03

Blown headgasket? Damn...I was hoping it wasn't that. But would that cause the temperature to rise instantly from cold start? And can anybody else confirm?

TerribleToo

When the gauge rises quickly does the engine seem overheated? Check the upper & lower rad hoses and see how hot they are.

Sounds like air in the system and or a faulty cap.



I would also do a leakdown and compression test. As well as adjust your valve lash. If you think you have problems its better to address them now, don't just keep driving it.

blackeg

the non vtec heads (b18a/b, b20b/z) have the torque on the 10mm head 6x1.0 bolts on the camcaps at 7.2 ft/lbs.

20 ft/lbs are the specs for the 12mm head 8x1.25 bolts found on the vtec heads. even at that i think you do it in 2 steps. 12ft/lbs then back through again up to 20 ft/lbs. funny i think the pressure plate bolts are the same specs...

i also did this once, wasnt paying attention and torqued on the of the ls bolts to 20 ft/lbs. it broke halfway down the threads so i was still able to get the bolt lightly hand tight, and put a dab of loctite on it to be sure. that was a cammed high comp build rev limited at i think 7600. never had an issue put 18k miles on it

Smash03

I haven't been driving the car at all. I'm gonna check the hoses and the cap.

Smash03

I started the car just now and the temperature gauge jumped to pass middle and it just kept jumping around that area. This is from a cold start and from what I understand, the engine can't just right away go from cold to hot. I have a feeling the temperature gauge is off. And I still see white smoke coming out from the head and header area. Not sure if its white or blue smoke because there's so little. There's plenty of coolant and I already bled the radiator. Anybody have any clue as to what's going on?

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

The only thing that controls the needle on the gauge cluster is the single pin connector on the side of your head. It could of went bad. Pick one up from a parts store or if you or a friend has a spare head get it form that. The 2 pin sensor on your thermostat housing tells the fan when to come on and the other 2 pin sensor beside the single pin one on the side of the head goes to the ecu itself. Cluster could also be messing up but it's not typical.

PyroProblem

This is 100% correct. Probably just a bad temp sensor for the cluster.

Smash03

Are you talking about the temperature sender?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=87632_0_0_

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

I can't tell from the pic but it's a single pin connector on the side of the head. It's just has 1 wire with a female barrel connector.

Smash03

I think I know what it is I'm just a little confused because when I looked up temperature sensor, it showed me this http://cdn2.autopartsnetwork.com/ima...1632684FAE.JPG but this has two pins. I happened to find temperature sender and it looked like this http://www.teamacuparts.com/images/p...meter/2252.jpg which has only one pin. So I'm just gonna guess its the sender, not the sensor. Am I right?

Smash03

I was able to find a diagram with the sensor and sender.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ck24/photo.jpg