View Poll Results: Is it worth it to try and BAR the motor before I try and sell it
Yes
2
66.67%
NO
1
33.33%
Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll
California Ref Bar on Dec 31st (need to get ready)
#1
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California Ref Bar on Dec 31st (need to get ready)
Hey peeps
I've got an appointment with the local state ref in Oxnard. I have a list of parts and want to know if anyone has any experience getting a setup like this BAR'd. Please don't flame me I'm just trying to get my stuff legal so that I have an easier time selling/trading it for a sedan before my little girl is born. Thank you all.
Also do you think it's worth my time, meaning is it going to up the value of my car much?
I'll take some pictures this weekend of everything.
Motor:
JDM GSR: B18c
Integra Type R cams
Blox intake manifold
Stock Airbox (aftermarket intake tube)
GSR Header
ARP headstuds
Stock civic cat
Custom 2.5” exhaust (stock style muffler, very quiet)
P28 chipped ECU (trying to trade for a stock obd1 p72)
Transmission: B16 Y21
Excedy stage 2 street clutch
ACT lightweight flywheel
I've got an appointment with the local state ref in Oxnard. I have a list of parts and want to know if anyone has any experience getting a setup like this BAR'd. Please don't flame me I'm just trying to get my stuff legal so that I have an easier time selling/trading it for a sedan before my little girl is born. Thank you all.
Also do you think it's worth my time, meaning is it going to up the value of my car much?
I'll take some pictures this weekend of everything.
Motor:
JDM GSR: B18c
Integra Type R cams
Blox intake manifold
Stock Airbox (aftermarket intake tube)
GSR Header
ARP headstuds
Stock civic cat
Custom 2.5” exhaust (stock style muffler, very quiet)
P28 chipped ECU (trying to trade for a stock obd1 p72)
Transmission: B16 Y21
Excedy stage 2 street clutch
ACT lightweight flywheel
Last edited by GQej1; 11-21-2008 at 01:28 PM.
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make sure u get the right ecu b4 u go, make sure ur monitors are ALL set to Ready, make sure ur timing is correct...i dont think u can have a aftermarket IM unless it has a carb but u can try
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naw they dont flag ur car...if u fail, at the end of the testing he will print u out a list of wut u need to fix or change and tell u to make another appointment...
i failed my first test cuzz my monitors didnt set and ive been spending months now tryin to figure out y and its a pain in the ***, cuz the ref wants ALL monitors to be set or u will fail...
if it was just a regular smog u can have 2 monitors thats NOT complete and still pass but to pass Bar u need ALL of them to be READY
i failed my first test cuzz my monitors didnt set and ive been spending months now tryin to figure out y and its a pain in the ***, cuz the ref wants ALL monitors to be set or u will fail...
if it was just a regular smog u can have 2 monitors thats NOT complete and still pass but to pass Bar u need ALL of them to be READY
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this might be a noob question.
MONITORS ready?
but recommendations:
fresh tune up helps. plugs.wires.fuel filter.etc...
no codes flashing..
correct ECU for the same year as ur car or newer,ur p28 isnt gna work...they check it
is the ENGINE the same year or newer?
the BLOX needs to have carb sticker and any aftermarket goodies...
My exhaust didnt have one -high flow cat.full 2.5 and ES muffler...but the ref didnt mind...
use 87 so it burns better and drive the car at full running temp when u get there...he might ask u to drive it around again before the smog itself...to warm it up
i failed cus my CO was off the charts, fuel not burning right, running rich, which is what im trying to figure out...i ran usdm stuff...i shoulda did a tune up...just drove it down there an prayed, and failed LOL...
as long as u got all the right stuff. carb stickers n be chill, they should be pretty cool with u...
GL
MONITORS ready?
but recommendations:
fresh tune up helps. plugs.wires.fuel filter.etc...
no codes flashing..
correct ECU for the same year as ur car or newer,ur p28 isnt gna work...they check it
is the ENGINE the same year or newer?
the BLOX needs to have carb sticker and any aftermarket goodies...
My exhaust didnt have one -high flow cat.full 2.5 and ES muffler...but the ref didnt mind...
use 87 so it burns better and drive the car at full running temp when u get there...he might ask u to drive it around again before the smog itself...to warm it up
i failed cus my CO was off the charts, fuel not burning right, running rich, which is what im trying to figure out...i ran usdm stuff...i shoulda did a tune up...just drove it down there an prayed, and failed LOL...
as long as u got all the right stuff. carb stickers n be chill, they should be pretty cool with u...
GL
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unfortunately there is no Carb stick for the Blox IM.
I think I'm just going to skip the whole thing since I'm selling the car anyway. I doubt I would get that much more money for all my troubles of trying to get it bar'd
I think I'm just going to skip the whole thing since I'm selling the car anyway. I doubt I would get that much more money for all my troubles of trying to get it bar'd
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if its a integra...4dr sedan im assuming, i bet u can pass it at any station...since those motors come in that car neways.as long as u pass emissions....
bar'ing it, its gonna cost u a few hunders to a g or two..if ur trying to sell it...iwouldnt bother..just get it smogged. be good for 90days..post ur car and i bet someone will bite...
thats the same problem im having..i have a JDM b16 with usdm parts...and still not passing, its becoming more of a hassle...the problem i have is that the car is still not registered in my name..when i bought it..but its in limbo with dmv...i dont wanna dump money either, im almost tempted to just swap a y8 in it an call it a day..and sell the complete swap..
bar'ing it, its gonna cost u a few hunders to a g or two..if ur trying to sell it...iwouldnt bother..just get it smogged. be good for 90days..post ur car and i bet someone will bite...
thats the same problem im having..i have a JDM b16 with usdm parts...and still not passing, its becoming more of a hassle...the problem i have is that the car is still not registered in my name..when i bought it..but its in limbo with dmv...i dont wanna dump money either, im almost tempted to just swap a y8 in it an call it a day..and sell the complete swap..
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Right!!!! that's what I've wanted to do but I can't find a D series swap :-(
And I don't know what it would take to swap a d series into my car, I'm not that skilled.
And it's in a 95 civic EX
And I don't know what it would take to swap a d series into my car, I'm not that skilled.
And it's in a 95 civic EX
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Re: California Ref Bar on Dec 31st (need to get ready)
Seeing the state ref isnt all that bad, its just that most visitors are uninformed and unprepared when they go. All of that equals a bad experience. For example: You wont pass the visual based on what mods you have listed. A stock, correct year, usdm ecu is needed for that engine, a stock intake pipe (or one with carb approval for a gsr, not any carb sticker will work!), and the blox manifold might pass off as a skunk2, which looks exactly the same and has carb approval. In addition, ALL evap components must be in place and functioning.
Dont worry about the transmission.
Dont worry about the transmission.
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Re: California Ref Bar on Dec 31st (need to get ready)
calling right now to make an appointment.
this is my setup that ill be going with:
1998 civic hatch dx
1998 odb2 gsr motor
1998 odb2 ecu
stock gsr intake manifold
stock gsr header
stock gsr intake
basically everything stock except apexi ws2
a good working cat (cat that my friends share)
should be a straight pass unless sensor/wiring/timing is off.
no clue what he means by monitors ready. i get the impression that he meant no cels? can anyone explain?
this is my setup that ill be going with:
1998 civic hatch dx
1998 odb2 gsr motor
1998 odb2 ecu
stock gsr intake manifold
stock gsr header
stock gsr intake
basically everything stock except apexi ws2
a good working cat (cat that my friends share)
should be a straight pass unless sensor/wiring/timing is off.
no clue what he means by monitors ready. i get the impression that he meant no cels? can anyone explain?
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Re: California Ref Bar on Dec 31st (need to get ready)
answer to my own question:
1. Evaporative Leak Detection Monitor - This test will require a cold start (possibly an overnight soak either indoors or out depending on conditions). The ambient (outside) temperature must be between 4o and 32o C (40o and 90o F) with the engine coolant temperature within 6o C (10o F) of ambient/battery temperature. Once the above criteria are met, use the pre-test/monitor test screen on the DRB IIIŽ to determine the remaining requirements.
2. Catalyst Monitor - The vehicle must be driven at highway speeds for the time listed in the pre-test screen. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transaxle, use fourth gear to help meet the requirements.
3. EGR Monitor - It is necessary to maintain TPS, MAP, and RPM ranges listed in the pre-test screen for this test to complete.
4. O2 Sensor Monitor - The vehicle must be driven and brought to a stop for the time listed in the pre-test screen. Automatic transaxle vehicles must be left in drive during the stop period.
5. Purge Monitor - To see a similar screen format as listed in, press the F1 key on the DRB IIIŽ while in the Purge Flow Pre-Test screen. The purge free (PF) cells must update and the monitor will attempt to run on every other throttle closure. Automatic transaxle vehicles must be left in drive for the test to run. If all parameters are met and the test still will not run, place your foot on the brake, open the throttle to 1/4 and then quickly close the throttle. This should allow the PF cells to update.
6. O2 Sensor Heater Monitor - The open throttle time for the O2 Heater pre-test must be exceeded. This monitor will run after the ignition key is switched "Off". After the DRB IIIŽ switches to No Response (approximately 3 minutes) turn the ignition key "On" and check the O2 Sensor Heater monitor status. It should have switched to "YES". All other monitors should be completed before running this test.
1. Evaporative Leak Detection Monitor - This test will require a cold start (possibly an overnight soak either indoors or out depending on conditions). The ambient (outside) temperature must be between 4o and 32o C (40o and 90o F) with the engine coolant temperature within 6o C (10o F) of ambient/battery temperature. Once the above criteria are met, use the pre-test/monitor test screen on the DRB IIIŽ to determine the remaining requirements.
2. Catalyst Monitor - The vehicle must be driven at highway speeds for the time listed in the pre-test screen. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transaxle, use fourth gear to help meet the requirements.
3. EGR Monitor - It is necessary to maintain TPS, MAP, and RPM ranges listed in the pre-test screen for this test to complete.
4. O2 Sensor Monitor - The vehicle must be driven and brought to a stop for the time listed in the pre-test screen. Automatic transaxle vehicles must be left in drive during the stop period.
5. Purge Monitor - To see a similar screen format as listed in, press the F1 key on the DRB IIIŽ while in the Purge Flow Pre-Test screen. The purge free (PF) cells must update and the monitor will attempt to run on every other throttle closure. Automatic transaxle vehicles must be left in drive for the test to run. If all parameters are met and the test still will not run, place your foot on the brake, open the throttle to 1/4 and then quickly close the throttle. This should allow the PF cells to update.
6. O2 Sensor Heater Monitor - The open throttle time for the O2 Heater pre-test must be exceeded. This monitor will run after the ignition key is switched "Off". After the DRB IIIŽ switches to No Response (approximately 3 minutes) turn the ignition key "On" and check the O2 Sensor Heater monitor status. It should have switched to "YES". All other monitors should be completed before running this test.
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