i plan on resleeve my b18c1 and bore it out to a 2.0. and i was woundering if it is able to be a daily driver and pro's and con's of it. i would also like to know if i can still use stock crank and rods.

 

I actually did this for my friend's ITR.

Used Darton solid deck 83 mm sleeves bored to 84.5

Used the stock crank, Eagle rods, and Endyn pistons. Boosted, etc

This is the definition of a daily driver. Drives from Bellingham to Seattle(80 some miles) about 3 times per week, plus school and work.

 

hell yeh...if built right it can be just as dependable as stock!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bruceleeroy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hell yeh...if built right it can be just as dependable as stock!</TD></TR></TABLE>


yes, if done right.

 

Entirely possible. There are several members on this board with it done. You can make some very respectable numbers with this setup and still drive it daily.

 

Just as everyone else has said, just as good as factory if not better... If you're really picky about assembling motors as I am you won't have a problem... Make sure you're within spec for all clearances, etc... Don't be cheap and you'll be fine... Our 2.0L GSR turbo motors making 500+whp hold up just fine... An NA setup should hold up just the same if not better... Good Luck

 

only thing i have a problem with is i see post about peoples sleeves sinking and stuff, wassup with all that, or was that just an old problem of the past?

 

We use Golden Eagle Mfg., RS, and AEBS... Not a single one has dropped yet... Just my $0.02

 

how much would all this run me?

 

For all these companies it will probably range anywhere from $700-1500 depending on what brand and the options you want done (i.e. o-ringing, etc.) AEBS will most likely run you the most followed by RS and then GE... They all work great but I like AEBS the BEST!!!! Latez

 

I already have 84mm sleeves installed in my GSR block, can I just have it bored out another .5 mm and use the stock crank to equal 2.0L ? I'm not sure if the stock crank = 89mm stroke.

 

use an ls crank and u will have an 89mm stroke.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redlineracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I already have 84mm sleeves installed in my GSR block, can I just have it bored out another .5 mm and use the stock crank to equal 2.0L ? I'm not sure if the stock crank = 89mm stroke.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could have it bored a whole millimeter over to 85 and you would be at a 1.98L with a B18C (87.20mm) crank, at 84.50 you'd be at 1956cc (~1.96L)... With an B18A/B B20B/Z crank x 84mm bore you'll be at 1.97L and at 84.50mm 2.0L... Personally I would just stick with the GSR crank... It'll keeps your R/S up a tad (0.04:1 higher than the LS/B20 atleast) and as you can see the displacement change is very little with the extra 1.8mm of stroke... Just my $0.02...

 

Does anybody know the strength of the LS crank vs. the GSR crank?

Kataku2k3, I appreciate the advice. I was actually thinking about that but I am trying to squeeze as much power out of this thing as possible since it will be a full on race car. What I am thinking is go ahead and take your advice, gsr crank with 84mm pistons, putting 30psi and and a 50-75 shot on her ***. My only problem is I want to make sure that the crank can take it.

 

ive seen well over 600+hp on a stock gsr crank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bruceleeroy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive seen well over 600+hp on a stock gsr crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea most definately... Duc's car is making 712whp, being a 1.96L GSR on 29lbs... You should be absolutely fine, there are tons of other people that make more power than that using the B18C crank... Good Luck

 

Great thanks guys

 

[QUOTE=Redlineracer]Does anybody know the strength of the LS crank vs. the GSR crank?

I was actually thinking about that but I am trying to squeeze as much power out of this thing as possible since it will be a full on race car. QUOTE]

in the 1st post u said you want to daily drive this , not be a full on race car

 

I did?

 

so i am wondering, is it or is it not recommended to run on stock rods, i dont think anyone has had any problems, and for reason i have a greator trust for stock rods then eagle rods as we all have seen holes in peoples blocks people are saying the stock rods are good for up to 9k, and if u guys do recommend forged rods has anyone heard anything good or bad about the RS MACHINES magnum rods?

 

You can do what you want rod wise but I would take Eagle's over stock anyday... We run them right up until about 550whp (Brian being an exception) and they've held just fine... I definately wouldn't try that on a stock rod... Otherwise I like the 4340 Crowers

 

can i get a figure on price which is somewhere in the area of how much it typically cost people to build a 2.0 bottom end from a 1.8L, having it resleeved, new forged, internals and oil pump, timming belt that kinda stuff?

 

bump....what exactly gets replaced during the rebuild?

 

GSR block = $400
Darton MID sleeves = $359
shipping to/from Darton = $140
Darton labor = $600
CP 84mm Pistons w/ rings and pins = $475
Crower Rods = $350
ACL bearing kit = $99
TOTAL = $2423.00

This is what I have so far. Of course prices fluctuate and if you want a true 2.0L you're gonna need a crankshaft so you're gonna need to add for that. Not to mention I know you get stuff done cheaper but from what I have been told, you get what you paid for.

 

crower rods only 350? really? i thought they were more