brake problem...got a answer for me?
ok heres the deal...my rear drivers side brake doesnt want to release completey..theres a slight drag from it...i checked it out and the pads were brand new on the top of the pad and the bottom part is worn badly...is this an alignment problem...the slide pins are greased well etc nothing is seized...any thoughts for me...TIA
none of the calipers are seized...or slide pins...mind u my rear brakes are being eaten up in less than 2 months time...really bad uneven waer on them...the top of the pad will be like new while that same pad will be worn out on the bottom...
Check rotor run-out. That's also a concern with uneven brake wear. Especially if you feel a brake pedal pulsation while braking. If it's that bad that your pads are wearing in 2 months... I'd recommend new rotors and pads. But that's only if you have rotor run-out.
well the rotors are a bit rusty and have slight ridges in them wear the pads contact the rotors but no pedal pulsation nor does it pull to one side while braking..i was told the reason why the pads are wearing uneven so quickly is cause my alignment is off...
also whats the best easiest way to replace rotors,pads,flush the brake system..ive done the brake pads before but what order ahould i take upon doing all this...flush the system first the rotors and pads or rotors and pads then flush the sytem..how do i go about flushing the system is the main part i dont know how to do and the sequence of what geets done first as previosly mentioned...help on this is reatly apreciated...how much of what kind of brake fluid for the flush..dot 3 dot 4?
Modified by teg-your-it at 10:32 AM 7/15/2003
also whats the best easiest way to replace rotors,pads,flush the brake system..ive done the brake pads before but what order ahould i take upon doing all this...flush the system first the rotors and pads or rotors and pads then flush the sytem..how do i go about flushing the system is the main part i dont know how to do and the sequence of what geets done first as previosly mentioned...help on this is reatly apreciated...how much of what kind of brake fluid for the flush..dot 3 dot 4?
Modified by teg-your-it at 10:32 AM 7/15/2003
you shouldnt have to bleed the system if ur just replacing the rotor/pads. the calipers should be able to depress with a c-clamp or by turning it with a wide screwdriver (depending on type).
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i might as well do it while im doing the brakes...its about time for that maintenance any way...so the alignment wont cause the pads to wear more on one side of one particular pad? all i need to know is the proper bleeding sequence...as in what caliper first to last..is this correct?
rear right
front left
front right
rear left
thanks again fellas
rear right
front left
front right
rear left
thanks again fellas
I don't think that bleeding the brakes is going to solve your problem. Check and/or replace the pad retainer clips. Check the rear caliper mounting bracket with the other side, to ensure that it hasn't deformed (this happened to me). Something is pinching the pad in place. It is possible that only one caliper pin is seizing causing the caliper to rotate about its center during braking.
Check the slider pins (especially the one where the pad is not contacting the rotor) and the retainer clips first, then get back to us.
Check the slider pins (especially the one where the pad is not contacting the rotor) and the retainer clips first, then get back to us.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSpeedR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Check the rear caliper mounting bracket with the other side, to ensure that it hasn't deformed </TD></TR></TABLE>
You wouldn't have to bend that slide pin very much to totally immobilize it, regardless of whether or not they're lubed well. If one of the pins seized up, the pressure generated by the caliper would be more than enough to bend that pin. I'd say this is your culprit.
You wouldn't have to bend that slide pin very much to totally immobilize it, regardless of whether or not they're lubed well. If one of the pins seized up, the pressure generated by the caliper would be more than enough to bend that pin. I'd say this is your culprit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSpeedR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think that bleeding the brakes is going to solve your problem. Check and/or replace the pad retainer clips. Check the rear caliper mounting bracket with the other side, to ensure that it hasn't deformed (this happened to me). Something is pinching the pad in place. It is possible that only one caliper pin is seizing causing the caliper to rotate about its center during braking.
Check the slider pins (especially the one where the pad is not contacting the rotor) and the retainer clips first, then get back to us. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i never said bleeding the brakes would solve my problem..i said i might as well do it while im putting new rotors and pads on...
Check the slider pins (especially the one where the pad is not contacting the rotor) and the retainer clips first, then get back to us. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i never said bleeding the brakes would solve my problem..i said i might as well do it while im putting new rotors and pads on...
well im at work now just trying to get an idea of what could be wrong...i know the rotors need replacing anyway so i"ll do those and pads this weekend along with the flush...while in there i"ll inspect the sliding pins...also when u say caliper pins are u referring to the slider pins or piston...im kinda lost as to what u mean exactly by caliper pins...any pics of what u want me to inspect would be a great help....thanks for everything fellas
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teg-your-it »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok heres the deal...my rear drivers side brake doesnt want to release completey..theres a slight drag from it...i checked it out and the pads were brand new on the top of the pad and the bottom part is worn badly...is this an alignment problem...the slide pins are greased well etc nothing is seized...any thoughts for me...TIA</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was the caliper piston properly turned to line up with the locating pin on the inner brake pad? Is the e-brake cable sticking?
Was the caliper piston properly turned to line up with the locating pin on the inner brake pad? Is the e-brake cable sticking?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teg-your-it »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im at work now just trying to get an idea of what could be wrong...i know the rotors need replacing anyway so i"ll do those and pads this weekend along with the flush...while in there i"ll inspect the sliding pins...also when u say caliper pins are u referring to the slider pins or piston...im kinda lost as to what u mean exactly by caliper pins...any pics of what u want me to inspect would be a great help....thanks for everything fellas</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am referring to the caliper sliding pins. I think that if the piston were seized then the pad would be straight. Maybe the rotor has pulled it one way, though (something I didn't about before).
I would remove the entire rear caliper, check the piston motion (how are the seals?) and the slider pins. If you've checked all the above, look into a reman. unit. that's what I would do anyway.
good luck
I am referring to the caliper sliding pins. I think that if the piston were seized then the pad would be straight. Maybe the rotor has pulled it one way, though (something I didn't about before).
I would remove the entire rear caliper, check the piston motion (how are the seals?) and the slider pins. If you've checked all the above, look into a reman. unit. that's what I would do anyway.
good luck
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integra0260
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