Best Torque Wrench?
Ok guys I need some help. My old Sears Torque Wrench bit the dust and I am looking for a replacement unit. I dont mind spending some serious cash if the torque wrench is worth it! I plan on doing some engine building soon and would like a unit that I can trust to be correct and will last a long time!
So far I am aiming towards the Snap-On Techwrench TECH2FR100 5 to 100 ft. lbs., 3/8" drive

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So far I am aiming towards the Snap-On Techwrench TECH2FR100 5 to 100 ft. lbs., 3/8" drive
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You know what i have used those and micrometer/click type snapon ones, and IMO i think the digital ones feel fake. That may sound weird but its just my .02
I have the 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 click type snapon ones. I love those, but dont really like those digital ones.
-s
But whats neet about the digital ones is that it tells you how much your torqing the bolt down real time when your turning the head of the bolt/nut. Thats pretty cool
I have the 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 click type snapon ones. I love those, but dont really like those digital ones.
-s
But whats neet about the digital ones is that it tells you how much your torqing the bolt down real time when your turning the head of the bolt/nut. Thats pretty cool
i got a buddy who has a snap on digital, its the coolest torque wrench on the block but i dont think any torque wrench is worth that amount of money.
i think their lifetime warrenty should cover torque wrenches as well as other tools.... weak
i think their lifetime warrenty should cover torque wrenches as well as other tools.... weak
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Matco hahaha.... I have all snap-on tools. I personally like my dial torque wrenches the best for accuracy, but they can be a pain in the ***. The click type is very good also. I also have the digital ones also. They are bad *** vibrate and beep when you reach the setting, but the only draw back is the batteries die like a ****. Take them out when not in use.
MAC tools has one out now also I seen it on the truck last week. I personally have the 1/4"-1/2 " click type snap on and the 3/8 snap on digital. I would recommend any of them.
Chris
Chris
snap on TQFR series wrenches seem like the best torque wrench ive ever used simply because it doesnt need to be zeroed. just dial the setting and it will click, but since the mechanism isnt stressed like normal click type wrenches, it doenst need to be zeroed during storage.
i know some of you ppl like to think you can get away without zeroing your torque wrench, but regardless a normal click type torque wrench is designed to be whereas this is specifcally designed not needed to be.
i know some of you ppl like to think you can get away without zeroing your torque wrench, but regardless a normal click type torque wrench is designed to be whereas this is specifcally designed not needed to be.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evosol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive used a cheap *** torque wrench for like 5-6yrs... it cost me like $20, it still clicks!
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do you KNOW what it REALLY clicks at? to get 80 ft lbs, i have to set my old cheap torque wrench to 130 ft lbs. you can imagine then at what i THOUGHT was 80 ft lbs for my lug nuts was much, much less. yeah, im lucky my wheels didnt fall off.
honestly, i RARELY ever rezerod that old wrench. in fact, i think after i started to rezero it consistently, is when it got out of whack. keeping it at the same setting it stayed consistent. right now, i keep it at the 130 mark so its set at 80 ft lbs for the lugnuts, which is really the main thing i use a torque wrench for. i got another one i keep zeroed and am saving for when i do engine or tranny work so that it stays accurate.
i actually use my REAL cheap needle type torque wrench to roughly calibrate and check my other torque wrenches, as its going to be accurate due to the dimensions of the metal, which dont change. using a clickable wrench is just more convenient.
</TD></TR></TABLE>do you KNOW what it REALLY clicks at? to get 80 ft lbs, i have to set my old cheap torque wrench to 130 ft lbs. you can imagine then at what i THOUGHT was 80 ft lbs for my lug nuts was much, much less. yeah, im lucky my wheels didnt fall off.
honestly, i RARELY ever rezerod that old wrench. in fact, i think after i started to rezero it consistently, is when it got out of whack. keeping it at the same setting it stayed consistent. right now, i keep it at the 130 mark so its set at 80 ft lbs for the lugnuts, which is really the main thing i use a torque wrench for. i got another one i keep zeroed and am saving for when i do engine or tranny work so that it stays accurate.
i actually use my REAL cheap needle type torque wrench to roughly calibrate and check my other torque wrenches, as its going to be accurate due to the dimensions of the metal, which dont change. using a clickable wrench is just more convenient.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">snap on TQFR series wrenches seem like the best torque wrench ive ever used simply because it doesnt need to be zeroed. just dial the setting and it will click, but since the mechanism isnt stressed like normal click type wrenches, it doenst need to be zeroed during storage.
i know some of you ppl like to think you can get away without zeroing your torque wrench, but regardless a normal click type torque wrench is designed to be whereas this is specifcally designed not needed to be.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah those are more for wheel torque where you may do alot of cars at 80lbs and just leave your wrench set there. The micrometer click types MUST be set back to zero and NOT dropped. Depending on how much you use it you should probably get it recalibrated every 2 years or so.
-s
i know some of you ppl like to think you can get away without zeroing your torque wrench, but regardless a normal click type torque wrench is designed to be whereas this is specifcally designed not needed to be.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah those are more for wheel torque where you may do alot of cars at 80lbs and just leave your wrench set there. The micrometer click types MUST be set back to zero and NOT dropped. Depending on how much you use it you should probably get it recalibrated every 2 years or so.
-s
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">screw snap on. If you want high dollar stuff, go MATCO
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this guy either drives a matco truck, or doesn't wrench enough to know the difference.
i've been all about snap-on since i started wrenching in 97. my dad and my uncle always used them, which is why it was a natural choice for me. matco stuff just seems cheaper to me. their sockets, their screwdrivers, even their wrenches.. nothing comes close to snap-on.
</TD></TR></TABLE>this guy either drives a matco truck, or doesn't wrench enough to know the difference.
i've been all about snap-on since i started wrenching in 97. my dad and my uncle always used them, which is why it was a natural choice for me. matco stuff just seems cheaper to me. their sockets, their screwdrivers, even their wrenches.. nothing comes close to snap-on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
this guy either drives a matco truck, or doesn't wrench enough to know the difference.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was a tech working under another guy for a little over a year before i decided to go back to school. All he used was matco and our matco toolguy was the best. The snap on guy that came around every week was more than painful to deal with. I know its biased, but whos opinion isnt? Your natural choice was snap on, mine was matco
this guy either drives a matco truck, or doesn't wrench enough to know the difference.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was a tech working under another guy for a little over a year before i decided to go back to school. All he used was matco and our matco toolguy was the best. The snap on guy that came around every week was more than painful to deal with. I know its biased, but whos opinion isnt? Your natural choice was snap on, mine was matco
point taken. but you can't base your opinion on a brand of tool simply by the attitude of of of their reps.
my last snap-on guy was a ********, but i dealt with him.
my current matco guy is a ******** too, but i just think the quality of snap-on is way better.
ever notice who makes honda's special tools and supplies all of their express lube stations at all the dealers across the USA? snap-on.
unlike matco, snap-on makes most of their tools. not ALL of them, but a good amount. all matco makes is toolboxes. ask your matco guy. it's the truth. EVERYTHING matco other than their boxes and carts are outsourced.
but like they say, opinions are like ********. everyone has one, and they all stink.
my last snap-on guy was a ********, but i dealt with him.
my current matco guy is a ******** too, but i just think the quality of snap-on is way better.
ever notice who makes honda's special tools and supplies all of their express lube stations at all the dealers across the USA? snap-on.
unlike matco, snap-on makes most of their tools. not ALL of them, but a good amount. all matco makes is toolboxes. ask your matco guy. it's the truth. EVERYTHING matco other than their boxes and carts are outsourced.
but like they say, opinions are like ********. everyone has one, and they all stink.
remind me of on dolly hammering a q panel in auto body class 8 years ago, a snap on hammer actually breaks, then the instructor told us, ohhh, ok we can get a new one. It comes with lifetime warantee i think? besides that hammer been use every single day for different projects for like 6-7 years. So for a hundred bucks hammer. I think it kicks.
Besides, every single tool in the school are Snap-Ons, i dont know but with those huge budgets, i think they go for the Best, as the instructors are all masters and in the field for more then 30 years as well we do trust their choice. (we were thinking hes brainwashing us in class on how good are snap ons back in those days until we touch some much cheaper stanly, Canadian tires, mac, etcetc)
Besides, every single tool in the school are Snap-Ons, i dont know but with those huge budgets, i think they go for the Best, as the instructors are all masters and in the field for more then 30 years as well we do trust their choice. (we were thinking hes brainwashing us in class on how good are snap ons back in those days until we touch some much cheaper stanly, Canadian tires, mac, etcetc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">screw snap on. If you want high dollar stuff, go MATCO </TD></TR></TABLE>
im a matco tool/box user.....
im a matco tool/box user.....
instead of spending 300 bucks on that, get a regular click type, and then spend the money you save on calibrating it when you drop it...
if you guys did't know, your supposed to recalibrate a torque wrench every time you drop it
if you guys did't know, your supposed to recalibrate a torque wrench every time you drop it
btw, you can send your wrench to be calibrated at team torque. http://www.teamtorque.com/






