best cams for gsr (without tuning much)
i have descided to search for some cams. i want to go with the type r cams but ive heard the ctr cams will be better for my 95 gsr. i want to know the difference between them. my mods are just intake and exhaust. when i change my cams i want to do the intake manifold and throttle body. i dont want to go with aggressive cams cause i dont need them. i just want a little more power out of new cams. so which cams should i look into without changing internals and doing tuning even though tuning would be a good idea. (i am gonna get the ecu chipped i got obd1 now) so whiich cams ctr or type r and wats the diff. thanks guys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kr4nG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have descided to search for some cams. i want to go with the type r cams but ive heard the ctr cams will be better for my 95 gsr. i want to know the difference between them. my mods are just intake and exhaust. when i change my cams i want to do the intake manifold and throttle body. i dont want to go with aggressive cams cause i dont need them. i just want a little more power out of new cams. so which cams should i look into without changing internals and doing tuning even though tuning would be a good idea. (i am gonna get the ecu chipped i got obd1 now) so whiich cams ctr or type r and wats the diff. thanks guys</TD></TR></TABLE>
if your not going to tune why even start moding your car i will never understand this?
i know for sure on stock internals stage 1 you will be fine with!
if your not going to tune why even start moding your car i will never understand this?
i know for sure on stock internals stage 1 you will be fine with!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kr4nG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im gonna tune but im saying i dont want a dyno tune im just gonna chip the ecu and stuff like that i just need to know the difference between the cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>chipping the ecu is not a tune.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DecentCivicZ6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so instead of gaining about 10hp frmo thr cams....u want to gain zero? just have an untuned car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
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see a message board is for people to help other people by explaining. not saying one sentence and make the person ask more dumb questions. chipping an ecu would help me recongnize the cams and i will gain more power.
so you are saying a basemapp is going to make you gain power???? you know a/f has alot to do with power..and you wotn gain no more than 10hp with those cams...and you thinking u gonna gain all 10 from a base map? not even street tuned?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DecentCivicZ6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you are saying a basemapp is going to make you gain power???? you know a/f has alot to do with power..and you wotn gain no more than 10hp with those cams...and you thinking u gonna gain all 10 from a base map? not even street tuned?</TD></TR></TABLE>
as this guy said the name of the game is TUNE, TUNE, TUNE this is not an area I would recommend anyone to cheap out on or what’s the point of even moding your car in the first place?
As for cam choice there are many choices a lot of people will tell you stage 1 cams are fine for DD and stock valve train others would even go further saying stage 2
as for the type R ones i guess you could search or someone else could offer information on that one never messed with them!
Personally I would not even touch your engine in terms of moding anything from factory if your not going to tune what’s the point?
as this guy said the name of the game is TUNE, TUNE, TUNE this is not an area I would recommend anyone to cheap out on or what’s the point of even moding your car in the first place?
As for cam choice there are many choices a lot of people will tell you stage 1 cams are fine for DD and stock valve train others would even go further saying stage 2
as for the type R ones i guess you could search or someone else could offer information on that one never messed with them!
Personally I would not even touch your engine in terms of moding anything from factory if your not going to tune what’s the point?
Above poster speaks the truth.
im in the same boat. I have GSR with I/H/E and am making 160whp/118tq. I just got a set of skunk2 stage 1 cams with adjustable cam gears after reading up on CTR and ITR cams and wanting to with those. The CTR cams and ITR are ideal but if you want something slightly more agressive go with some stage 1 cams. The only problem with switching to a higher profile cam is that you can blow the head with over revving. If you are going to keep it below 8200 then you should be fine with stock gsr valve train, if you are going to rev it higher or ever worried about over revving then its recommended to atleast change to ITR springs. Thats GSR intake springs to exhaust side and ITR intake springs.
Me personaly i might be putting my skunk1 s1s this coming weekend for a bit of power and get a tune later. You wont get any power with just a chip since we don't drive turbo cars or VWs. You need to get it dyno tuned if you wish to get the maximum power out of it. Be it VAFC/crome/Hondata, whatever.
Now i thought about all of it and im still debating weather its worth it to do spending 300+ for 10hp.
im in the same boat. I have GSR with I/H/E and am making 160whp/118tq. I just got a set of skunk2 stage 1 cams with adjustable cam gears after reading up on CTR and ITR cams and wanting to with those. The CTR cams and ITR are ideal but if you want something slightly more agressive go with some stage 1 cams. The only problem with switching to a higher profile cam is that you can blow the head with over revving. If you are going to keep it below 8200 then you should be fine with stock gsr valve train, if you are going to rev it higher or ever worried about over revving then its recommended to atleast change to ITR springs. Thats GSR intake springs to exhaust side and ITR intake springs.
Me personaly i might be putting my skunk1 s1s this coming weekend for a bit of power and get a tune later. You wont get any power with just a chip since we don't drive turbo cars or VWs. You need to get it dyno tuned if you wish to get the maximum power out of it. Be it VAFC/crome/Hondata, whatever.
Now i thought about all of it and im still debating weather its worth it to do spending 300+ for 10hp.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now i thought about all of it and im still debating weather its worth it to do spending 300+ for 10hp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well in my opinion it is worth it because if you later on the future make anymore changes to your car then the rest speaks for its self you never know what your going to do down the road well i don't people change and ideas change!
also you might only make 10hp WOT but what about the rest of the power band i am sure you will pick up there also
to many people just look at WOT and not the whole power band
Now i thought about all of it and im still debating weather its worth it to do spending 300+ for 10hp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well in my opinion it is worth it because if you later on the future make anymore changes to your car then the rest speaks for its self you never know what your going to do down the road well i don't people change and ideas change!

also you might only make 10hp WOT but what about the rest of the power band i am sure you will pick up there also
to many people just look at WOT and not the whole power band
98 GSR with ITR cams and no tune. Car runs fine with the stock GSR map and the cams have been in for 100k kms. I dropped them in expecting to have to tune but was pleased that in drove nicely and VTEC point was still smooth. Valve train was left stock with the stock redline.
This car is tracked, last lapping day was 8 hours and was on it for the majority of the time. No issues, no burnt valves.... just solid Honda reliability.
Good thing about the ITR cams is when you want something more aggressive they're easy to sell.
This car is tracked, last lapping day was 8 hours and was on it for the majority of the time. No issues, no burnt valves.... just solid Honda reliability.
Good thing about the ITR cams is when you want something more aggressive they're easy to sell.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">98 GSR with ITR cams and no tune. Car runs fine with the stock GSR map and the cams have been in for 100k kms. I dropped them in expecting to have to tune but was pleased that in drove nicely and VTEC point was still smooth. Valve train was left stock with the stock redline.
This car is tracked, last lapping day was 8 hours and was on it for the majority of the time. No issues, no burnt valves.... just solid Honda reliability.
Good thing about the ITR cams is when you want something more aggressive they're easy to sell.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is not the question of HOW do they run in this case or point people are trying to make BUT are you maxing the potential of something new in your car and the answer to that is NO! hence the tune!
With out the tune your not geting the max out of the new item namely in this case would be the “cams” that was the point the people including my self are trying to say! Therefore once again I will say if your not going to tune for something you change on your car do not waste the money on the performance improvements “tuning is the name of the game!”
This car is tracked, last lapping day was 8 hours and was on it for the majority of the time. No issues, no burnt valves.... just solid Honda reliability.
Good thing about the ITR cams is when you want something more aggressive they're easy to sell.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is not the question of HOW do they run in this case or point people are trying to make BUT are you maxing the potential of something new in your car and the answer to that is NO! hence the tune!
With out the tune your not geting the max out of the new item namely in this case would be the “cams” that was the point the people including my self are trying to say! Therefore once again I will say if your not going to tune for something you change on your car do not waste the money on the performance improvements “tuning is the name of the game!”
exactly. my I/H/E jdm gsr with power fc tuned @ evans put down 174/132...before the tune, it made 151 peak with a garbage curve- granted, that was mostly from using the fc's b16b base map to start with, but i'm saying tuning is where it's at....
the best bet is to wait it out until you can put together a proven formula that is what you think you'll like, THEN tune. if the tuner is competent, it'll be worth it.
for the record, CTR cams are my choice for something to add w/o having to do valvetrain upgrades.
the best bet is to wait it out until you can put together a proven formula that is what you think you'll like, THEN tune. if the tuner is competent, it'll be worth it.
for the record, CTR cams are my choice for something to add w/o having to do valvetrain upgrades.
i understand that tuning is necessary but i can just drop ctr cams in there with no tuning necessary right. (even though i should tune) im not going past 8.0 right now and after the cams ill go to 8.2 and thats all i want. any other tips?? thanks
wanna buy my Skunk2 stage 1 cams and gears? You can get them tuned since they come with adjustable cam gears. They are a little more agressive than CTR/ITR cams and can be tuned for more power. If your not going past 8 you should be fine with these also.
yea ive heard good things about those cams before too. not too aggressive either. which is good. but just curious whats your price to ship into central nj and how old/miles. i dont plan on changing my internals though so if i need to or its recemended than i wont buy them. thanks
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