ok straight to the point....

ive over reved my motor about 20 times since i got it due to a clutch problem i cant figure out ....

vafc has shown 8500 lots of times cause i have the stupid spoon chip.....car runs great doesnt burn oil and always starts good....as far as my compression gauge shows it still up aroun 210 on every cylinder......how come i havent fucked this thing up yet..is it luck or what ...oh ya and 1 miss shift from 3rd to second while in at the track

 

It's only a matter of time. One time you will over-rev it and BOOM. just because you over rev it doesn't mean the top end will come apart. Just be more careful

 

If you keep on doing that and over reving you will mess something up eventually. Just calm down and try not to mis shift.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prelude Vtec 23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you keep on doing that and over reving you will mess something up eventually. Just calm down and try not to mis shift. </TD></TR></TABLE>

heheh ill calm down .....and yes ive been waiting for it to happen one of these days but i cant afford it now......

also if a velve is bent just a bit you will notice it will you not...i mean any loss of compression will hurt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machine4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


also if a velve is bent just a bit you will notice it will you not...i mean any loss of compression will hurt
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A slightly bent valve will usually cause a miss at idle. A leakdown test is a good way to diagnose it.

 

Just be careful mang. I have misshifted a few times in my purlude from 3rd to 2nd, but it wasn't until like the 3rd time that it fucked **** up. I was goin about 85-90 in third then went into second let me just tell you, my car idles roughly, the whole powerband is rough...it sucks *****.

On a sidenote, can someone provide me w/ the procedures for a leak-down test or help me out? thanks a bunch, smooches

 

Leak down test is one of the greatest ways to find out if you have a sticking valve, a bent valve, a blown head gasket basically its used to determine if your losing compression and were you are losing compression at. Its fairly easy to do yourself but the actual tool is fairly expensive you can get them from about a $100 dollars to almost $300 <A HREF="http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/eepv309a.asp?partno=eepv309a&dir=catalog)
" TARGET="_blank">http://buy1.snapon.com/product...og)
</A>
But the actaual procedure is very simple you just do the following
1. Take out the spark plugs.
2. Rotate the motor to TDC (were all the timing marks line up on the cams and crank)
3. Hook up the gauge by threading the hose into the spark plug hole, next connect your air compressor to the gauge
4. Start putting compressed air into the cylinder use your regulator ***** to get a steady reading, make sure that your use the same amount of air on each cylinder e.g. 90psi on all 4.
5. LISTEN if you can air in the following locations:
(a) the crank case, remove the oil cap. if air is head here the whoosh noise then the problem you have is the rings are worn and your losing compression
(b) the tailpipe: if you hear whoosing noise at the tailpipe then its your exhaust valves bent, or borken
(c) the intake manifold: if you here the whoosing noise at the thorottle body then your intake valves are most likely bent or broken.
(d) if you don't here anything and compression numbers are low its most likely a blown headgasket (pull off the radaitor cap and look for bubbles or air)
6. Remember that since its four cylinders that you can do cylinders 1 and 4 together as well as 2 and 3

hope that helps its a very nice test to do espically on boosted cars, because you can just see whats going to be open.

latter

joe a.k.a wIggY a.k.a WigGLes

 

thanks wiggy for through......

 

thanks man, just what i was looking for. I don't get what you meant by doing cylinders 1 and 4 together tho?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wildstallion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks man, just what i was looking for. I don't get what you meant by doing cylinders 1 and 4 together tho?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or 2 and 3.

 

ya what up ??.....even thought the pistons are at the top at the same time 1 and 4 arnte at tdc at the same time...they are on a different stroke.....

 

Yeah you guys are right, i kinda of forgot the fundamentals there (the crankshaft turns twice to each cams single rotation) so your right you would have to do them seperate because if you didn't then your valves would be open and would be giving you a false reading.

good eyes guys sorry about the goof

joe a.k.a wIgGy a.k.a wiGglEs

 

and you would tell which one is truly at TDC my the rotor, right?