My optima red-top (second one) has died, and I need to get something new. The car is with my father while I'm gone, and he needs to be able to hop in it once every week or two and have it start reliably.

Considerations:

• 2000 Accord 4cyl
• my battery is relocated to the trunk, so I need something sealed (vibration resistant also?)
• car will be a semi-daily driver in a freezing climate in the winters
• needs be be reliable rather than lightweight
• car has aftermarket alarm, and amp setup
• side terminals are a plus

I've been looking at the Braille B6034 Endurance, but reading some iffy things about it just being re-badged? I'd like to keep cost under $250.

 

I would suggest another Optima. When you say the second one died are you having short lifespan issues? That points towards getting weak batteries at the onset or more likely charging issues from corrosion, poor grounds, inadequate alternator capacity or voltage regulator problems within the alternator.

Poor charging is the worst thing for any battery in terms of lifespan. A battery sitting over a period of time with low charge condition won't last a full lifespan. Battery lifespan is a function of charge condition over time, the lower the charge condition the shorter the lifespan.

Whatever you do, I suggest having the alternator load tested. Also, you can put a volemeter on the battery after the car has been parked overnight and measure voltage for a quick down and dirty charge condition check. Basically, from 12.0 V being "0%" charge condition to 13.0 v being 100% charge condition.

If the Optimas are lasting less than 3 full years there is something wrong somewhere. Like running stereo on battery and letting car sit with medium to low charge condition. Or a monster stereo and stock alternator. Put the biggest battery you can in it and a monster alternator. A big stereo on a stock alternator couls also shorten battery lifespan.

 

"needs be be reliable rather than lightweight"
"car will be a semi-daily driver in a freezing climate in the winters"

Reinstall to stock location, and find the a batt. with most CCA that will fit in the stock location, you have to deal with "line loss" when batt is that far from starter/main fuse box.

If you want reliable, go back to stock.
"he needs to be able to hop in it once every week or two and have it start reliably"

2 weeks is a long time when there is an alarm drawing power, add to that the distance the batt. is from the starter.

As mentioned, batteries need to stay full charged to extend their usable life. 94

 

If all else checks out ok, with intermittent use on the vehicle, install a plug and put a Battery Tender on it. Done.

Good point above on potential line loss from cable length. Needs to be big for the additional length - a couple of gauge sizes larger than the OEM. Welder cable works great.

Check all the grounds.

 

Thanks for the input fellas. The previous two Optima Red Tops lasted between 2 and 3 years each, which isn't horrible, but also isn't good.

I rebuilt the alternator and had it tested in December when I was installing the new motor and replaced the 1 gauge wire from the trunk with better wire of 0 gauge. I also made a point to hit all the ground terminals with a wire brush and remove any oxidation, and hit every metal to metal contact from the alternator, to brackets, to the block, trans, and chassis with a wire wheel to get to the bare metal. My tuner even made a point to mention that the electrical system on the car was of the best Hondas he'd worked with. I run a TunerView off the ECU, and the battery always read around 12.4v when the car is off, and ~14.6v with the car running.

fcm, I don't think there's room in the engine bay for the battery at this point, and I don't have the luxury of working on the car myself right now to make it fit or else I would consider moving it. When the car cranks, it turns over with authority and starts immediately, so I believe my loss through that line should be minimal. I didn't disconnect the alarm, solely because the fuel pump's relay is powered through it, but I'm certain that's not helping my problem as you stated.

I do have a quick disconnect switch on the battery box that cuts ground to the battery. Should a new battery maintain a healthy charge for a couple of weeks at a time if I have it disconnected via that switch? If so, it shouldn't be any issue for him to flip that when he needs to crank the car and flip it off when it's back in the garage...

Also, would the deep cycle design of the yellow top be of any advantage over a red top since it's more tolerant of higher discharges? I could likely fit a larger model than the D35 group in the box if it were to my benefit.

 

FYI, the Schumacher SC-600A SpeedCharge High Frequency Battery Charger ($30 on amazon) has worked wonders on my battery that doesn't see much driving time and cold temps. I was about to get a new battery and instead got the Battery Charger and it's been fine ever since.

 

^ What he said. Intermittent driving is bad for batteries even if disconnected. Put a decent trickle charger on it and the battery life will darn near double.

 

If you are going to leave the batt. in the trunk, do as suggested, get a "batt. minder". 94

 

Agree with getting a "trickle charger". Also you will be hard pressed to find a better battery that will suit all of your needs like the Optima does. They are decent and usually have a lifespan that exceeds "regular" batteries (which ,ironically, is 3 to 4 years)

 

Ok, I hear what everyone is saying but I think my point was missed. The Optima red that is in there now has been kept on a trickle charger (2A) in between drives since December, but still has issues starting the car over the past couple months. Last month my father changed chargers, thinking his might be bad, but the new charger says the battery has a short, confirming that the battery is the issue. So here I am, asking for battery recommendations.

Understanding that the new battery will be kept on a trickle charger as the last one was, should I spend a few bucks more on the Optima Yellow, or just replace with another Red top?

 

a 12V one.

 

Just drop another Red Top in it and keep on the trickle charger. On my third Optima Red Top and getting 5+ years from them.

Battery life span is a direct function of charge condition over time - sitting with less than 100% charge condition will shorten lifespan considerably.

 

once an optima is completely dead, it will never work the same again.

 

That statement, while true, will apply to virtually any and all lead acid storage batteries.

 

i have 2 yellow tops in my cars. pretty expensive, but start up everytime no matter how many months they have sat.