My 1992 Civic Lx has a 95 d15b7 in it with roughly 200,000 miles on the body, and 110,000 on the motor. I corrected my cam timing problem, which was off a tooth, about a month ago. That required me to advance my distributor all the way to get it where it would run. I corrected this b/c of the bad gas mileage and b/c it was unable to run on 87 octane pump gas ( money is really tight lately) without spark knocking. On this setup before i corrected my cam timing it did not backfire at all. Now after i fixed the cam timing and set the ignition timing it runs alot smoother, seems to have more power, but the valves are clicking like a ************, and and it backfires getting off and on the gas quickly, upshifting. Can anyone at least help me norrow some of the ideas down? Thanks

 

Also, i forgot to add that i have a short ram intake, and custom 2.25 inch exhaust

 

Could be your a/f mixture

Get some tuning done

yO!!!

 

A/F mixture is hardly adjustable without at least a chip to adjust the maps......however a basic tune up does sound like an idea.

If the valves are clicking you should check and double check the clearances first and go from there....you could have valves that arent doing the correct job which can impact your motor.

Also, what plugs are you running, change air and fuel filters, run an injector cleaner through, and check the condition of your other components to see if anything else might need replacing.

 

When i swapped in the 95 motor, i used all the intake components off of the original B7 which had 200,000 miles on them. After it started backfiring, i replaced the injectors and FPR with the 95 stuff with only 110,000 miles. I replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and the rotor a 2 months ago. (running only NGK plugs). I ran injector cleaner in yesterday as a matter of fact. As for the valve clearances, is this something that is easily checked and adjusted at home? or do i need a mechanic to do this? I am a very good mechanic, and i do have both the Chilton and Haynes repair manuals so just tell me what you think, Thanks BROCK

 

bump

 

i would think it had soemthing to do wtih messed up timing. but im not sure

 

All my timing is correct, both ignition and cam timing

 

haynes and chiltons went in the garbage for me.....found lots of incorrect info (mostly because chiltons uses a very general idea because they base one manual for a few different vehicles). I consulted the actual shop manual specs and chilton specs for torquing things like main and rod caps and found them to be different by like 3 ft. lbs.

Anyways...as for measuring valve clearances, it is very easy and takes about 10 minutes if youre used to doing it. Basically pull at least cylinder 1 and 3 plugs and hand rotate the motor around and watch the valves open and close. You want to check valves when they reach the fully closed position with a feeler gauge right between the lifter and the valve head. There is a 10mm lock nut around a flathead screw. Usually intake valves are at .006 and exhaust are .008 and what i do is slide the feeler gauge in, adjust the lifter so that it is pretty snug against the gauge and hold the screwdriver right there and clamp the 10mm bolt down. ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK CLEARANCES....ive done them, thought i had it dialed, fired it up and heard one ticking and ive done it MANY times.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brockscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All my timing is correct, both ignition and cam timing</TD></TR></TABLE>

Obviously not, because if they were correct, it would not be backfiring.

And bad tune up items will never cause a car to backfire, unless the rotor is stripped and is not rotoating with the shaft and is pinned against one post (I say this because I have actually seen it...)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brockscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I am a very good mechanic, and i do have both the Chilton and Haynes repair manuals so just tell me what you think, </TD></TR></TABLE>

Me thinks you are NOT a good mechanic..... (you asked.......)

 

Well, i had the ignition timing and cam timing set at the Honda Dealership, i dont **** with **** i dont have at least a little confidence in. But your opinion is yours so w/e but does anyone have any help?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brockscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, i had the ignition timing and cam timing set at the Honda Dealership, i dont **** with **** i dont have at least a little confidence in. But your opinion is yours so w/e but does anyone have any help?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just because it was done at the dealer does not mean it was done correctly. Did they get the first year apprentice oil change schlep to check it? I have had to fix many items properly that apparently the dealer had "fixed"

 

My uncle works there and hes worked on my families cars for years and both of my EG civics, but your right he could have fucked up.

 

ive been working on honda motors for a few years now....i still make dumbass mistakes at times. I think everyone does because its human nature and its sad if you cant admit that you do

 

yep your right everyone does...but i just want my car to quit farting... would it be a bad catalytic converter?

 

ok ive thought up a little bit on this and to me if it was cam timing or ignition timing it would do it all the time.. would it have to do do with maybe an exhaust leak or bad cat converter???

 

distributor. sounds like cylinder pick up issue

 

not necessarily all the time if it was ignition or cam timing....remember that a fuel injection system runs on preset maps. Once the ECU hits certain values depending on what the loads/environments are is when the motor will backfire.

 

yea, i had the distributor in mind..it has almost 200,000 miles on it. Ive replaced everything except the coil..and the leak cover is gone. Everyone that i ask about my problem says they've nevr seen this before ... so i dont know waht to do..unless i just replace everything...then see if it still does it.

 

"On this setup before i corrected my cam timing it did not backfire at all"

Sounds to me that's your problem there.. Let's see, I forget but.. Backfiring seems to have something to do with too much overlap or your valves not closing all the way..

Assuming your cam timing is correct, I'd adjust those valves first and then continue diagnosing..

"Just because it was done at the dealer does not mean it was done correctly. Did they get the first year apprentice oil change schlep to check it? I have had to fix many items properly that apparently the dealer had "fixed"

- He's right. A lot of the guys I work with do half *** jobs..

 

i adjusted the valves yesterday adn got rid of the valve tick, but i double checked while i had the top timing cover off, and my cam timing is right now. So any other ideas