Backfire, hesitation, stumble problem.
My problem is odd. I am working on this car at the shop and am quite confused on what it might be. The car has been sitting out back for about 6-8 months and was said to be running great when it was put back there. i pulled the car up and it started and ran, the problem happens when the engine goes under load, ie i start to let out on the clutch pedal. the engine will bogg down and act like its not getting spark at all or maybe its not getting any fuel at all. its real weird, because then ill push the clutch back in and it will act like its going to die for a second like its not geting any fuel, then it will slowly come back to life. I have checked the Dizzy (actualy put a known good working one in) and that didnt change the problem at all. I also replaced the fuel filter witch was extreamly clogged, and took off the hose and fuel rail and injectors and cleaned all but the injectors, because i did not know how to and did not want to ruin a 90 dollar injector if i could help it. cleaned all that up and put it back to gether and still nothing. it does run better and also put new plugs in. Runs smoother at idle now but whenever under a load it will try to die. even revving it up to 4000 RMP and Slowly letting out on the clutch ti still wants to die. I hooked up a ignition scope up to it and its getting spark to each cylinder, but the firing line is almost as low as the coil ossilitaions.(spelling)... now fuel and ignition has both been checked, problem still exist. I am at a total loss here and do not know what the hell coudl be causing this. im almost thinking it might be the timing belt and it might be off a few teeth. i do not know. any sugestions would be helpfull Thanks And thankyou for realing this langthy post. (in a hurry spelling might be wrong)
Edit: Car is a Civic LX 5 speed with Cruise P/S, NO A/C, and is a D15B7 engine
Edit: Car is a Civic LX 5 speed with Cruise P/S, NO A/C, and is a D15B7 engine
I also forgot to mention... if running at idle, and you burp the throttle to WOT it will SOMETIMES but not all the time backfire, as iff a spark plug wire is crossed... but all wires are to the right cylinders i have checked a number of time snad have compared it to my own car, also i thought that maybe it was replaced with a Vtec Dizzy (being its a D15B7 engine) but its not its the TD41U .. i think thats the right number for the non vtec engines.
Check the timing marks to see if it jumped. I would also break the exhaust loose after the manifold to see if the exhaust was plugged. Did it sit for 6-8 months with just a little gas in the tank? Bad gas can cause weird problems.
yeah i still need to check that exhuast... and i belive the car did sit with the gas in it... were going to try new gas here in the next couple days, (not there over the weekend) but why would it cause it to back fire? and just Die under load... i think it would have enough power to keep running... well look into it. and also the timing marks.. ill get it right dead on and then tighten it down and the marks are fine they dont move... then ill rev it a little and then when it comes back down to idle they are off again... its real weird.... dizzy doesnt move or anything.. i dont know whats going on with this car. would the timing belt (well the cam and crank sprockets) being off by one tooth make this kind of stuff happen? and i mentioned that to my supervisor and he said it ran like a champ when it left the shop and sat....? i any more ideas? well look into all the above mentioned stuff (again in a hurry not checking spelling)
When you say timing marks move, are you talking about the ignition timing marks on the flywheel as you look at it with a timing light? I'm talking about checking the cam and crank and rotor at TDC.
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im talking about the timing marks on the pully as looking at them with a timing light... Now your talking about putting the engine at TDC and making sure the cam sproket is at TDC, the rotor on the dizzy is pointing to the #1 Cylinder wire, and the crank marks line up at TDC? I think this is what your talking about.. ill try that on monday. but like i said.. this should not be the problem if the car was running so well when it left the shop.
these kinds of things wouldnt move by themselves....
these kinds of things wouldnt move by themselves....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMKid71 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im talking about the timing marks on the pully as looking at them with a timing light... Now your talking about putting the engine at TDC and making sure the cam sproket is at TDC, the rotor on the dizzy is pointing to the #1 Cylinder wire, and the crank marks line up at TDC? I think this is what your talking about.. ill try that on monday. but like i said.. this should not be the problem if the car was running so well when it left the shop.
these kinds of things wouldnt move by themselves....</TD></TR></TABLE>Engines jump time everyday and they run great right up to the time that it happens.
these kinds of things wouldnt move by themselves....</TD></TR></TABLE>Engines jump time everyday and they run great right up to the time that it happens.
what do you mean by jump time? how can this happen? and does it fix itself.. like the ECU will adjust for it. or how can i fix it?
Usually the crank will overun the cam so to speak and leave the cam sprocket retarded by a tooth or more. It can be caused by a loose or worn timing belt.
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