b20 vtec (crvtec) vs b16a2
with $3K you can have Erick's Racing build you a sick *** 2.1L B16A block and smoke the fawk out of a B20vtec and stay a reliable daily driver on top of that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with $3K you can have Erick's Racing build you a sick *** 2.1L B16A block and smoke the fawk out of a B20vtec and stay a reliable daily driver on top of that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
where do you see that on his homepage?
where do you see that on his homepage?
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yeah, b16 with big crank...and costum pistons...and rods.
do you have the engine already? you are planning in buying one right?
then with 3k you cant buy a b16 and have it stroked and bored to 2.1l
with 3k you can have a STOCK bottom end b20 and put some money on the head to get some nice power and nice reliability.
I dont know, but im not a big fan of stroked b16's...to keep R/S ratio bearable you need custom lenght rods and pistons..And forget pistons are defenetely not nice to the cyl. walls, comparing them to stock cast.
do you have the engine already? you are planning in buying one right?
then with 3k you cant buy a b16 and have it stroked and bored to 2.1l
with 3k you can have a STOCK bottom end b20 and put some money on the head to get some nice power and nice reliability.
I dont know, but im not a big fan of stroked b16's...to keep R/S ratio bearable you need custom lenght rods and pistons..And forget pistons are defenetely not nice to the cyl. walls, comparing them to stock cast.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
where do you see that on his homepage?</TD></TR></TABLE>
call him up and ask about it.
where do you see that on his homepage?</TD></TR></TABLE>
call him up and ask about it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverCIVIC96 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he has 3000 to spend, if the block itself costs 3000, it'll just serve as a large paperweight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I assumed he already owned an engine and had $3000 to spend on upgrading it. My baad, I guess..
</TD></TR></TABLE>I assumed he already owned an engine and had $3000 to spend on upgrading it. My baad, I guess..
b20 block-500-600.
B16 head (perfect head) 600 bucks or so
new rings-120
awesome used pistons-about 120 bucks.
at the very least to make the B20 a RELIABLE performer, you should balance the bottom end (150-200$) and get some ARP rod bolts (about $40). Ive personally been in a LSVTEC that hit 10k daily with stock LS rods balanced and ARP'd. Do I suggest this? Hell no. But, if that guy can hit 10k daily, I don't see why you can't hit 8k and be reliable. The real key here is the balancing of the crank, rods ETC.
Also, what kind of pistons are you going to be using? If your near Missouri, I know I shop that does basically ALL the work for most import shops around here (read:they are good) and I had my engine assembled by them, with new Honda bearings, for 200 bucks.
That does not include the above mentioned parts, of course, but its still a deal if Ive ever seen one.
With all the above mentioned prices, It came out no higher than 1880. Of course, thats NOT all its going to cost, but the nickel and dime stuff should be more than 200 bucks or so. I cant see you spending over 2,100 for all of this. I vote CRVTEC.
B16 head (perfect head) 600 bucks or so
new rings-120
awesome used pistons-about 120 bucks.
at the very least to make the B20 a RELIABLE performer, you should balance the bottom end (150-200$) and get some ARP rod bolts (about $40). Ive personally been in a LSVTEC that hit 10k daily with stock LS rods balanced and ARP'd. Do I suggest this? Hell no. But, if that guy can hit 10k daily, I don't see why you can't hit 8k and be reliable. The real key here is the balancing of the crank, rods ETC.
Also, what kind of pistons are you going to be using? If your near Missouri, I know I shop that does basically ALL the work for most import shops around here (read:they are good) and I had my engine assembled by them, with new Honda bearings, for 200 bucks.
That does not include the above mentioned parts, of course, but its still a deal if Ive ever seen one.With all the above mentioned prices, It came out no higher than 1880. Of course, thats NOT all its going to cost, but the nickel and dime stuff should be more than 200 bucks or so. I cant see you spending over 2,100 for all of this. I vote CRVTEC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notstock93 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b20 block-500-600.
B16 head (perfect head) 600 bucks or so
new rings-120
awesome used pistons-about 120 bucks.
at the very least to make the B20 a RELIABLE performer, you should balance the bottom end (150-200$) and get some ARP rod bolts (about $40). Ive personally been in a LSVTEC that hit 10k daily with stock LS rods balanced and ARP'd. Do I suggest this? Hell no. But, if that guy can hit 10k daily, I don't see why you can't hit 8k and be reliable. The real key here is the balancing of the crank, rods ETC.
Also, what kind of pistons are you going to be using? If your near Missouri, I know I shop that does basically ALL the work for most import shops around here (read:they are good) and I had my engine assembled by them, with new Honda bearings, for 200 bucks.
That does not include the above mentioned parts, of course, but its still a deal if Ive ever seen one.
With all the above mentioned prices, It came out no higher than 1880. Of course, thats NOT all its going to cost, but the nickel and dime stuff should be more than 200 bucks or so. I cant see you spending over 2,100 for all of this. I vote CRVTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
any idea what this swap will yeild in terms of power?
what would be more powerful.. b20 or ls?
i'd go h22, but i dont feel like dealing with a cable shifter.
B16 head (perfect head) 600 bucks or so
new rings-120
awesome used pistons-about 120 bucks.
at the very least to make the B20 a RELIABLE performer, you should balance the bottom end (150-200$) and get some ARP rod bolts (about $40). Ive personally been in a LSVTEC that hit 10k daily with stock LS rods balanced and ARP'd. Do I suggest this? Hell no. But, if that guy can hit 10k daily, I don't see why you can't hit 8k and be reliable. The real key here is the balancing of the crank, rods ETC.
Also, what kind of pistons are you going to be using? If your near Missouri, I know I shop that does basically ALL the work for most import shops around here (read:they are good) and I had my engine assembled by them, with new Honda bearings, for 200 bucks.
That does not include the above mentioned parts, of course, but its still a deal if Ive ever seen one.With all the above mentioned prices, It came out no higher than 1880. Of course, thats NOT all its going to cost, but the nickel and dime stuff should be more than 200 bucks or so. I cant see you spending over 2,100 for all of this. I vote CRVTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
any idea what this swap will yeild in terms of power?
what would be more powerful.. b20 or ls?
i'd go h22, but i dont feel like dealing with a cable shifter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
any idea what this swap will yeild in terms of power?</TD></TR></TABLE>
check this out: https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch
it has all hte answers
any idea what this swap will yeild in terms of power?</TD></TR></TABLE>
check this out: https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch
it has all hte answers
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tinkerbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
check this out: https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch
it has all hte answers
</TD></TR></TABLE>
great. so instead of typign 3 digits, you tell me to search.
check this out: https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch
it has all hte answers
</TD></TR></TABLE>great. so instead of typign 3 digits, you tell me to search.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
great. so instead of typign 3 digits, you tell me to search. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that's right mate, i am very surprised you made it to this point without being told to search!
BTW - teh answer does not = 3 digits.
great. so instead of typign 3 digits, you tell me to search. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that's right mate, i am very surprised you made it to this point without being told to search!
BTW - teh answer does not = 3 digits.
hrm. well for 3000, im looking for the best engine to drop in my car.
i want reliability... thats why im thinking b16a2. and it can be done for $3000... but its only gonna be as fast as a vtec del sol.... lame.
i dunno what to do. and i surely dont want to go d series. been there done that.
i want reliability... thats why im thinking b16a2. and it can be done for $3000... but its only gonna be as fast as a vtec del sol.... lame.
i dunno what to do. and i surely dont want to go d series. been there done that.
dont do b16a2. I had a B20Vtec, then it blew up due to a shitty builder. I then bought a b16a2 and swapped it in.... was like going back to a d15 motor. NO tq.... dont do it, just do the B20... im looking for a b20 bottom end right now...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simple »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont do b16a2. I had a B20Vtec, then it blew up due to a shitty builder. I then bought a b16a2 and swapped it in.... was like going back to a d15 motor. NO tq.... dont do it, just do the B20... im looking for a b20 bottom end right now...</TD></TR></TABLE>
see.. im gonna be doing the work, and i dont want to blow up my car.
maybe ls vtec?
see.. im gonna be doing the work, and i dont want to blow up my car.
maybe ls vtec?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
see.. im gonna be doing the work, and i dont want to blow up my car.
maybe ls vtec?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ls/vtec & B20/vtec are essentially the same thing ie. mating a DOHC VTEC head onto a non-vtec block. You will still have to perform the same work on an LS/VTEC as you would a B20/VTEC (oil lines etc), the only difference is the B20 is it being 2L and the LS/VTEC being 1.8L.
and if you didn't know, an LS & a B20 are the same exact block. All Honda did was resleeve the LS block and put wider diameter piston in while reusing the LS crank & rods and changed the engine ID stamp to "B20xx"
Btw, if you do some engine searching, you can probably by a JDM B18C SiR engine for right under $3000, if you didn't wanna go B16.
see.. im gonna be doing the work, and i dont want to blow up my car.
maybe ls vtec?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ls/vtec & B20/vtec are essentially the same thing ie. mating a DOHC VTEC head onto a non-vtec block. You will still have to perform the same work on an LS/VTEC as you would a B20/VTEC (oil lines etc), the only difference is the B20 is it being 2L and the LS/VTEC being 1.8L.
and if you didn't know, an LS & a B20 are the same exact block. All Honda did was resleeve the LS block and put wider diameter piston in while reusing the LS crank & rods and changed the engine ID stamp to "B20xx"
Btw, if you do some engine searching, you can probably by a JDM B18C SiR engine for right under $3000, if you didn't wanna go B16.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what will a b20 and intake manifold give me?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A quarter pounder with cheese....
Does anybody have a E-dyno in here?
stock for stock, a b20 with a gsr tranny is nice. But its good to try it out before you go vtec
Modified by b20_EK at 11:56 AM 5/6/2004
A quarter pounder with cheese....
Does anybody have a E-dyno in here?
stock for stock, a b20 with a gsr tranny is nice. But its good to try it out before you go vtec
Modified by b20_EK at 11:56 AM 5/6/2004


