Im still trying to decide what to do with my sleeved b20 block. ITs at stock bore should i just go .20 over with stock crank, H beams, and JE pistons. OR would it be worth it to go all out and get the eagle stroker kit and go to 2.2

My plan is all motor, w/ jun headpackage oversized valves 1.0 *PP b16 head.

any suggestions or experiences would be great thanks

 

2.2 would be completely wild, go for it if you can tune it well enough for it to last

the power from a 2.2 liter B series would be soooooooo nice to have....

but that stroker setup may cost bigtime, how much is it?

and B20 vtec is still a superb power provider, nothing bad there!

 

2.2 liter b20....11:1 comp. CRVTEC........

how much $$$$ for the kit?

 

That stroker kit sounds . I would do it if i had the money. That may be close to a 12sec all motor engine. yummy.

 

Sounds all good to me. Do more reasearch on the stroker kits first. I wouln'd run 1mm over-sized valves with Jun3 and a high compression pistons.(very risky)
the highest i would go with the 1mm over-sixed valves is maybe 10.1

valve clearance will be an issue

 

still waiting on the price for the kit......I am sure it is unfathomable....

May be better to spend the money on the head, and some good rods/pistons.....much cheaper.....I am thinking a comparable setup would be aftermarket pistons...9:1....rods, balanced lower end, and a turbo kit......this would yield better results than the stroker kit.....

...... but I realize that you want to go all motor...sorry for the turbo leak.

still like the b20vtec 2.2liter Idea!

 

i personally would not do the stroker kit on the B20B/Z to make it a 2.2L.

this all of course depends on the headwork you have done, the cams you use and the C/R etc. you said JUN3 cams is what you want to use, which make power at higher rpm, which in turn means the block needs to spin to 9-9.5K rpm with the cams. with the possible lower R/S ratio of the stroked B20B (i can't remember the rod length used with the 95mm crank off hand) and higher rpm needs of the JUN cams, i don't think this would be such a good idea since the block R/S ratio would yield low end power and the cams would yield high end power. i only say this because sometimes the stock R/S ratio of the B18B and B20B can limit the high end capabilities while using aggressive cams like the JUN 3's. so to spend all that $$ on the stroker kit and have it hinder the power made by the cams/head in the high rpm just wouldn't be worth if you ask me.

my personal opinion is to stick with the B20 crank, use Eagle H beam rods, 12-13:1 C/R pistons with 84.5mm bore on stock sleeves, the headwork and valvetrain to match the cams you use, and all the good bolt-ons with tuning.
you can hit 220-240 WHP with a fairly simple setup like that and run 12's easily with the right gearing and enough traction.

 

u dont need a kit, just buy the eagle 95mm crank and get custom pistons/rods and a deckplate...the kit is like 2000 when you could piece it together for baout the same, and have the beter eagle crank...Crower sux i hear, i use eagle.
u also cant use oversized valves with high lift cams

 

hey guys thanks for the info, umm the kit is like 1,900 or something like that.( maybe more) I have the block at a machine shop and they're gonna do the work. Ummm i was plannin on gettin ferria valves @ 1.0mm over with PP.

I just was wondering any ideas, because im mean im building the block anyway mid aswell go all out. Besides when i go to sell. A b20 stroker sounds a lot better than a straight b20 bored over a few. I will keep you guys posted... thanks for the info im gonna keep reading a little

 

 

put time an dmoney and new parts into it just to sell it soon afterwards?
nooooooooooo!
you'll take a huge hit in the wallet...

Yes I did some searches, the stroker kits are $1900 - $2200 and I bet they make serious power... but for a 2.2 liter setup man you better have VERY ADJUSTABLE fuel and air volume availability and tuning potential

 

babydaddy just got a eagle stroker kit for his GSR. we just got it running yestidy, and hopefulyl will be on the road tommorrow.

he's using skunk 2 stage 2's in it and oversized valves.

i'd talk to him in about 2 weeks when it's broken in and see how he likes it. if it gives a big jump of power and torque on the b18, it'll be even bigger on the larger displacemtn b20

 

also, why do you say you can't go oversized valves with high lifts cams????

i know several people with sk2 3's that are running oversized valves

 

straight off skunks web site Oversized valves should not be used with standard size valve seats or with Stage II and III VTEC camshafts.

 

headwork

 

Headwork wouldn't change the fact that the valves could contact when used with high lift/duration camshafts.

 

why not clearence the piston??? I've put some HELLA huge valves in small blocks and big blocks and had some pretty damn big cams

are hondas that different, or is it just not come around yet...cause i know hondas are just now using v8 tricks

 

i need to fix a statement imade earlier, babbydaddy is using stock sized valves, i was over there tonight and we disscussed it


but i still believe that there has to be a way to use larger valves and hella lift cams

 

What do you mean? My B18B has always had its camshaft in the oilpan.

 

HAHA thats funny bro.But read this it takes about oversized valves.This guy does the head work for the fastest all motor honda's.Are you down to have a debate with him?

ALANIZ recomends using stock valves on all normally aspirated B16, GSR heads. Our flowbench testing has shown .5mm oversize valves dont work no matter who I get them from. I also gave them a fair chance trying diffrent seat angles and widths with no positive results. At mid to high lifts we see about 2% less flow than a well modified stock valve. Any one who has flowbench tested a B16 or GSR should know this. Oversize valves breath better at lower lifts if modified correctley. Please remember this is not a DART, ARF, 18 DEG BOW TIE, OR A BRODIX. Many people who work on AMARICAN IRON HEADS apply technics that might work well on Chevy's and Fords but fail to realize that if you have done flowbench testing on Honda heads you'de think twice about going this route. Dont be suckerd! We only sell SS oversize valves in turbo and nitrous applications where high heat will be encountered or in instances where oversize valves responded well on the flow bench. We never guess at what we do. Monkey see monkey do attitudes or I heard it through the grapevine mentalities are a NO NO! Hard facts and flow numbers is what we are about.

 

The danger of having oversize valves and high lift cams is that they'll hit each other, not necessarily the pistons. Additionally I don't think there's much benefit on a N/A application.

To the original poster I'd bore the block to the max(probably 86mm) and get really good pistons and not throw money at a stroker kit. Stroking and high revs do not go well together.

 

unless you add a Deck Plate!
he said "all out" right..?


[Modified by 10K2HVN, 8:07 AM 3/30/2003]

 

hey guys, been searching and reading found this dyno on import-review

http://www.importreview.com/d_2.1.html

Umm, hate to sound like a rookie but whats a deck plate? and so just so im trying to understand everyone oversized valves arent worth it? and if they aren't which should i buy?

 

i think a deck plate is stuck on the top of the deck to increase the stroke for a better rod to stroke ratio with higher displacement motors. but i might be wrong.

 

ur right